Searching for My Dad's 1979 Chevy Suburban

[TheHoundsman]

If I could bother everyone for some additional advice. You may recall I have also been trying to fix my speedometer. I took what I think is the speedo gear out however it does not look like I thought it would. I have some pics attached. I was expecting to see a plastic gear in there and this is what I found. I would imagine it is just a different type but there is clearly no spot for the squared pin to go which is clearly why it works on a drill and not when screwed in place. Looks like the circled piece in the last picture is missing. Does anything know what that is called and can I get it or do I need a whole new speedo gear.

 

[TheHoundsman]

Spent hours today drilling out the Reid racing knuckles with a 7/8 drill bit so I can flip the track bar and finally get this boy back together. I went through one Dewalt 1/2 hammer drill already. This is no easy job.

 

[Goldie Driver]

Spent hours today drilling out the Reid racing knuckles with a 7/8 drill bit so I can flip the track bar and finally get this boy back together. I went through one Dewalt 1/2 hammer drill already. This is no easy job.

I cannot visualize why you are having to do that but it sounds like enough of a PITA that Goldie with a 4 inch lift and 33's will stay with the original General's steering design. I heartily salute your efforts, however.

 

[TheHoundsman]

I cannot visualize why you are having to do that but it sounds like enough of a PITA that Goldie with a 4 inch lift and 33's will stay with the original General's steering design. I heartily salute your efforts, however.

You can pick whether you want to put the track bar on top or under the knuckle and I had read that if it is on top it is more stable and gives you more ground clearance so that’s what I pick. When I went to put the track bar on, because I had to install top down for whatever reason with my Burb there was not enough room between the knuckle and the springs to install it. I was going to just buy and install a high steer kit and be done with it but they Offroad Design told me that instead they sell a correction kit for $50.00. A big part of me just wishes I ordered the high steer kit. Drilling these out is not easy.

 

[edgephoto]

That speedo gear is not what I am used to seeing but I never played with trucks much in the old days, only cars. A little searching and it appears that is the driven gear and the drive gear is plastic. My truck has an NP208 transfer case and uses the little plastic gear. Turns out the NP203 and NP205 take the style like you have. Stick the cable in the end and see if it fits tight or not. You should be able to see inside the end of the gear and can see if it is rounded out or not.

The steering shaft looks great. I have been on the fence about installing one on my truck. I am pretty sure I am going to spring for it after seeing yours. One thing comes to mind is making sure those Allen head bolts and jam nuts don't come loose. I would use a drop of Blue Loctite on them just as a precaution. Use the Blue as it is removable with hand tools. The Red is permanent and take heat to release. I have seen bolts twist off or pulling out threads trying to force Red Loctite loose.

 

[TheHoundsman]

That speedo gear is not what I am used to seeing but I never played with trucks much in the old days, only cars. A little searching and it appears that is the driven gear and the drive gear is plastic. My truck has an NP208 transfer case and uses the little plastic gear. Turns out the NP203 and NP205 take the style like you have. Stick the cable in the end and see if it fits tight or not. You should be able to see inside the end of the gear and can see if it is rounded out or not.

The steering shaft looks great. I have been on the fence about installing one on my truck. I am pretty sure I am going to spring for it after seeing yours. One thing comes to mind is making sure those Allen head bolts and jam nuts don't come loose. I would use a drop of Blue Loctite on them just as a precaution. Use the Blue as it is removable with hand tools. The Red is permanent and take heat to release. I have seen bolts twist off or pulling out threads trying to force Red Loctite loose.

Will do. The steering shaft was relatively easy once I had the correct u joint for my steering column. Blue Loctite is a must to be sure. I ordered a replacement Speedo Gear last night as I was also at a loss. Had to get a used one but it has the end on it which mines seems to be missing. We will see if it works when it arrives.

 

[idahovette]

@TheHoundsman where did you locate your replacement gear?

 

[TheHoundsman]

@TheHoundsman where did you locate your replacement gear?

eBay, there were a few on there, it might not be what I need (it says it is), but I could not figure anything else out. I got a 20-tooth because when I counted what I had in my Burb, it was 20. I am sure the ratio will still be off, but I plan on putting a GPS sending unit in at some point.

71-90 GM NP205 Speedometer Driven Gear 18 Tooth with Collar

 

[idahovette]

Thanks Brian. I took mine out and put it in my G-son's K10(dumb), so now I need one

 

[TheHoundsman]

Thanks Brian. I took mine out and put it in my G-son's K10(dumb), so now I need one

The things we do for family

 

[TheHoundsman]

Update to the continued cross-over steering saga, lol. I finished drilling out the knuckles, inserting the corrective bushings, and installing the track bar. With that done, I installed the cross-over bar and put the rest of the Burb back together. I had to spend a reasonable amount of time bleeding the lines, but once that was done, it got nice and quiet, and fingers crossed, it drives pretty darn straight with only a correction to the steering wheel needed. Of course, I need to get an alignment done, but that was a given. I will keep checking things to ensure they stay tight, but so far, so good. I have one question I am afraid to ask, but I guess I should. The upper steering bar/arm had to be installed on the driver's side under (bolt-on top) and passenger side over (bolt-on bottom). Both are tight, with the castle nut and cotter pin fully installed. I am just not sure if that setup is safe. Pics attached. I’ll get better ones on the driver's side as soon as possible.