SBC intake manifold gasket

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frankenstien

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what do you guys do when swapping intake gaskets? i currently have felpro 1205's with "the right stuff" gasket maker for the front and rear seal, but it looks like its blowing oil out the back, so going to change it out. this is the 3rd or 4th time in 8 years, seems a bit much?

anyone do anything different? i have push in vents in each valve cover, with 5/8'' hose vented down to atmosphere, so i dont think its crank case pressure blowing it out
 

bucket

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You should have a PCV valve in one cover, and a breather in the opposite cover. I've never had trouble with the RTV pushing out on any of my motors.
 

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I have done the rtv front and rear many times with no issues eas well. Be sure it isn't a leaky pressure switch/sender. Ditto on the pcv valve too.
 

frankenstien

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i only run the truck in the spring-fall, not in winter, hasnt had a PCV valve on it since i built it in 2008, never really saw a reason,

however after a closer look, looks like my valve cover bolts rattled loose, they were way loose, so i wiped everything down and we will see how it looks in a day or 2
 

bucket

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The purpose in a PCV has nothing to do with the outside temps, it helps with leaks and oil consumption.
 

frankenstien

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The purpose in a PCV has nothing to do with the outside temps, it helps with leaks and oil consumption.

you think to atmosphere isnt enough to prevent leaks from crank case pressure?
 

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An engine (with properly made up joints) would probably not leak oil even if it were simply allowed to vent to atmosphere. But that isn't the primary purpose of a PCV system, and it's not even the secondary purpose.

Even the tightest engines will have some degree of blow-by (i.e. combustion gas leakage past the piston ring/cylinder wall interface). The blow-by gases need to be continuously scavenged from the atmosphere within the crankcase. If these gases - which contain acid and water - are still in the crankcase when the engine is shut off, they will cool down and condense into liquid. This allows them to trickle down and mix with the lube oil.

Given a sufficient number of heat up/cool down cycles, they begin to form a significant percentage of the engine oil volume. The oil's lubricating properties begin to drop off, the acids in the oil begin to etch into the metal components of the engine and the water forms an emulsion that clings to the surfaces. An emulsion is a mixture of water and oil - it's that white slimy stuff you see inside valve covers.

If this process is allowed to continue, it gets worse. The acid will eventually cause pitting of the surfaces of the steel journals in the bearings. And the emulsified oil gets baked into sludge. The sludge accumulates in the oil passages and begins to restrict flow. The reduced flow, along with the pitting caused by the acid, starts to effect the ability of the bearings to maintain an oil film between the babbit and the rotating steel journal. The babbit begins wear away and the tight original clearances are lost.

Given enough time, the engine will be choked with sludge and bearing clearances will become excessive. This will happen even if you are diligent about changing the engine oil.

The way prevent this all from happening is to continuously remove the blow-by gases. And the most effective method to remove them is by scavenging the crankcase atmosphere with a constant flow of fresh air.

Rather than using an additional device to force the fresh air into the crankcase, the PCV system uses the vacuum created within the intake manifold to draw the blow-by out and into the combustion air stream. This is done via the PCV and it's associated hoses.

An atmospheric vent is necessary in a PCV system as well. It provides a path to allow an unrestricted flow of incoming fresh air. That air replaces the scavenged crankcase gases and prevents a negative pressure from developing within the crankcase. Scavenging is most effective when done in a diagonal flow. That is why you'll almost always see the valve cover vent on the opposite side and end of the PCV.

The two main benefits from this system are:

1. Harmful blow-by gases are removed from the engine's crankcase and combined with the incoming combustion air. Ultimately they are burned within the combustion chambers.

2. Since the rate that the gases removed by the manifold vacuum are replaced by a flow of fresh air drawn in at the same rate, a natural balance is always maintained. Crankcase pressure is always equal to atmosphere and in theory nothing goes in and nothing goes out.

A third benefit is a slight reduction in emissions - those blow-by gases that would have been released to atmosphere, but were instead burned in the engine.
 
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MikeB

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Are you using a brand name high-temperature RTV, such as Permatex Hi-Temp Red or Ultra Black? And are you cleaning the sealing surfaces with lacquer thinner before applying it?

Also, what I like to do is set the manifold on the intake gaskets and look at the front and rear gaps. I then lay down RTV beads that are 1/8"-1/4" taller than the gap. That extra will flatten out to the full width of the block sealing surfaces when the manifold bolts are tightened. If it doesn't squeeze out, it's not enough.

Finally, let the RTV dry overnight before firing up the engine.
 

MikeB

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The blow-by gases need to be continuously scavenged from the atmosphere within the crankcase. If these gases - which contain acid and water - are still in the crankcase when the engine is shut off, they will cool down and condense into liquid. This allows them to trickle down and mix with the lube oil.....The way to prevent this all from happening is to continuously remove the blow-by gases. And the most effective method to remove them is by scavenging the crankcase atmosphere with a constant flow of fresh air.

Also, something we don't hear that much about is coolant temperatures. The higher the temp, the less the moisture in the crankcase. I'm not sure what Gen I engines would think about this, but LS-series engines use t-stats in the range of 210 degrees. My guess is 195 is a good all around choice for a Gen I engine. But many folks think the cooler the better. At the minimum I'd use a 180.

What say you, Chengny?
 
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i always enjoy reading chengny's responses. Very thorough and I learn something.
 

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