Rear power window problem.

[buRRp]

The other day I rolled down the end gate window. After I shut the gate and went to roll it back up it would not go up. I checked to see if the switch was getting power and it was. I traced all the wires and there ok. Can't figure out what's wrong. Anyone else have any ideas? I'm not the greatest at electrical stuff.

 

[Stumpuller6.5]

I`d be suspicious of a connection in the end gate, seeing as after you moved it it would not work.

My problem was a ground, do you ohm the ground wire right at the motor?

 

[buRRp]

I took the accuses cover off the gate on the inside to check the motor and the glass is in the way. Is there a way to move the window up by hand?

 

[bucket]

There is a safety switch on the passenger side latch, so you can't roll the window up when the tailgate is open. When that switch fails, it's just a matter of bypassing it.

The problem is the glass is in the way. I don't remember if you can sneak the mounting bolts out of there (bottom of glass, 4 of them, 7/16) because my tailgate has 4 perfectly placed access holes drilled into it. Anyway, get the glass unbolted from the regulator and slide it up out of the way. Then pull the wiring from that safety switch (two blue wires, IIRC) and jumper the connector and test for motor operation.

 

[buRRp]

Thanks Clancy and Andy. Will try it this weekend.

 

[TheBlue'Burban]

My rear window seems to have a slow spot a few inches after coming back up, and then maybe 6 inches before it reaches the fully closed position... is this something I could take the cover panel off, grease the track, and fix? Worries me that it might stop altogether one of these times.

It doesn't slow a whole lot... just doesn't go completely smooth. I figured it might slow down at the top so that it doesn't slam into place and can slowly align itself into the upper rubber... but the other areas of hesitation scare me.

Is this a common issue that is easy to fix?

 

[chengny]

TSB on this issue:

CHEVROLET NUMBER: 87-T-51

SECTION: 10 - Body Section

DATE: January, 1987

SUBJECT: TAILGATE WINDOW ALIGNMENT

MODELS: 1984-1987 C/K-R/V JIMMY/BLAZER


Some 1984-1987 C/K - R/V Jimmy/Blazer models equipped with a power tailgate window may experience a tailgate window that operates slowly or does not fully return to its upward or closed position. This condition can be caused by misalignment of the rear tailgate window, cable, guide pins, sash assembly, regulator assembly or the tailgate. The following checks and adjustments should be used to correct this condition.

1. Battery Condition - Check the charge of the battery while the engine is running and also when the engine is stopped. A low battery charge can cause the window to move slowly.


2. Rubber Wedge - Some models have a rubber wedge (5" long) installed at the base of the roof housing between the window track and the glass run seal. If equipped with the wedge, remove it and glue the glass run seal to the roof using weather strip adhesive (P/N 12345097) or equivalent (see Figure No. 1).

3. Cable Assembly - The cable assembly should not interfere with the movement of the window. The cable should run below the lower window stop and through the holding tab (clip) mounted on the tailgate (see Figures No. 2 and 3). Any tight bends in the cable will reduce the power transferred to the regulator assembly.

4. Window Regulator - Check window regulator and left regulator arm for any binding (see Figure No. 4). Marks will be visible where the regulator arm and sash have contacted. If left regulator arm is catching on the window sash, carefully bend regulator arm as required. Check the meshing of the regulator teeth. An overly tight meshing will cause unnecessary binding and the regulator assembly should be replaced.

5. Window and Sash Assembly - Remove glass and sash assembly for inspection. This can be accomplished by removing the four bolts that connect the sash assembly to the regulator arms.

- If sash is not centered on glass, remove the sash and center it on the glass assembly (see Figure No. 5).

- Remove any excess sash filler at the ends of the sash assembly.

- Check the angle of the sash channel guides to ensure they follow the curvature of the glass and sash channel (see Figure No. 6). If adjustment is required, carefully bend the guides to the same curvature as the glass and sash channel. Ensure that the guides travel through the channel smoothly.

6. Tailgate Glass - Check curvature of the tailgate window. Lay straight edge on glass and observe the clearance between straight edge and glass at center of window (see Figure No. 7). If clearance exceeds 1/4 of an inch replace the glass.

7. Ground Strap - Install a ground strap (12 gauge wire) from the tailgate to the frame. Attachment can be made from one of the tailgate hinge bolts to one of the holes in the rear frame crossmember. Use a star washer with each bolt to provide good metal to metal contact. Make sure the ground strap does not become kinked when the tailgate is closed. Ensure that the motor is grounded properly to the tailgate. This can be accomplished by replacing one of the window regulator motor bolts with a zinc chromate coated bolt, P/N 9419004.

8. Tailgate Fit To Body - Check flushness and height of tailgate to the rear quarter panels. If the top of the tailgate is misaligned (in or out), loosen the strikers on the inside of the rear quarter panels and adjust accordingly. If alignment (in or out) is off on the bottom of the tailgate, loosen hinges and adjust as required.

9. Window Centering - Loosen the two channel adjusting bolts on each side of the tailgate (see Figure No. 8). Close tailgate and run window up and down. Open tailgate enough to access the adjustment bolts and tighten.

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[89Suburban]

Jerry, more great info greatly appreciated. But would this apply to Suburban tailgate window as well?

 

[chengny]

I don't know, maybe.

I'm not familiar with the Suburbans but I would imagine that the tailgate components are the same as the Jimmy and Blazer.

I wouldn't pay too much attention to the list of effected models anyway. Case in point, this TSB concerns a malfunctioing power tailgate window. And yet, the models it refers to include the C,K,R, & V series- all pickup trucks.

Most of the pickups I see don't have a power tailgate window.

 

[bucket]

Some of it applies. The Burbs have a regulator that doesn't use a drive cable and the thing about the rubber wedges doesn't apply.

But as to the question, yes, clean and lube the regulator and tracks. You will need to bypass the safety switch so you can run the glass up and down when the tailgate is open. Always support the glass when moving the glass to the 'up' position, and the tailgate is down.

 

[TheBlue'Burban]

Wow, some speedy responses. Thanks guys! I will give 'er a go for my next tinker-time allotment. Chengny, that is some handy literature to have on hand. Is that a mechanic's reference book?

 

[chengny]

That particular TSB is from one of my Alldata subscriptions.

You should look into Alldata if you do a lot of your own work. I think it's $25 for a 5 year subscription (1st vehicle, additional vehicles are like $18).

 

[TheBlue'Burban]

Well, as suspected... i put the window down to get my tools out, and it wouldn't go the whole way back up. About half way up, it seemed to get caught on something, and just stopped.

I took the panels off, overrode the safety switch, and got it to go up and down while the tailgate was open... then noticed that the sash channel and whatever rubber/material holding the glass into the sash was completely rusted out on the driver's side.

All the tracks/gears and stuff are in good shape and in line, but the glass would get caught in the rubber as it was pulling down, pulling it out of the sash, binding it up and stopping the motor.

I found what I think is the right part on ClassicTrucks, but there is a left and right?

I didn't notice before I put the panel back on, but it seemed like it was one continuous sash, not two pieces, but I guess, looking at the illustration above, it is two. Is there somewhere cheaper to get these? I will probably do both sides while I am doing it.

Is there a certain order to taking the sash off and putting the glass back into the new channel? I will probably be doing this myself... should I try and get someone to help hold the weight of the glass while I shove it into the sash? Do you need to pinch the rubber and channel around the glass once it is in, or does the rubber hold it on it's own?

Thanks guys.

 

[bucket]

The sash is all one piece, it's wedged onto the glass with the rubber strip. There's a small roller track that bolts on each side.

Mine rusted out a while ago, I was lucky enough to have a buddy send me one that he found. LMC shows them, but they are expensive. I also have a buddy that is a glass guy by trade, I had him put the new sash on the window glass for me. He put a primer on the sash, then used a couple short pieces of the rubber in the sash, then the rest got filled with urethane before it was pushed onto the window glass. Should last much longer since the metal is sealed and there's nowhere for moisture to collect anywhere.