Rear driveline removal.

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MadOgre

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The ones I used in my 10 bolt K10 are Napa 534G made by Federal Mogul, they heavy duty greasable joints. They honestly are the best IMO

Another thing is when you install the rear drive shaft u joint into the pinion yoke its not a bad idea to install the c clips onto the caps that are accepted by the pinion yoke. The reason being is that the stop tabs on the pinion yoke that keep the caps from sliding side to side can be worn allowing a little bit of side to side movement which will destroy your new joint in short order. Putting the c clips on the caps keeps the joint from moving should there be any wear on the stops. It works really well too if you already have worn out stops. And it will prevent the stops from wearing.
 

highdesertrange

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there are two different u-joints for our trucks small and large. sorry I don't have part numbers on me at the moment. take your old one with you it's obvious when you compare. imho spicer are the best remember "spicer is nicer". highdesertranger
 

MadOgre

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lol
 

one4fun

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The ones I used in my 10 bolt K10 are Napa 534G made by Federal Mogul, they heavy duty greasable joints. They honestly are the best IMO

Another thing is when you install the rear drive shaft u joint into the pinion yoke its not a bad idea to install the c clips onto the caps that are accepted by the pinion yoke. The reason being is that the stop tabs on the pinion yoke that keep the caps from sliding side to side can be worn allowing a little bit of side to side movement which will destroy your new joint in short order. Putting the c clips on the caps keeps the joint from moving should there be any wear on the stops. It works really well too if you already have worn out stops. And it will prevent the stops from wearing.

I picked up a 534g last night. If its the right one, great. If not, back to the parts store once I get the old one removed.
 

flyboy1100

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I used spicer 5-795x on mine. I did both sides so i don't have to do it again. Mine were also 28yr old factory joints.

Propane torch is good enough to melt the plastic out. Acetelyne would be faster. I had to beat the old ones out, new ones pressed it very nicely
 

one4fun

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Update: weld yoke on the shaft was cracked. So, it turned out to be a bigger repair than expected. (That never happens. ..)

I took it in to have the yoke replaced, but since it's a welded AND pressed in yoke, they would have to cut the tube down to remove it, leaving it to short. So, getting one made. Basically getting a new "stock" shaft with Neapco ujoints. Also, it's going to be the correct length, about 1 1/2" longer.

I did remove the old joints using the sockets and 3 lb sledge. Removed the c clips and sprayed a bit of PB blaster and then a few slacks with the hammer. They popped out like a dream.
 

MadOgre

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You only need a small hammer to do the joints. Just some gentle taps with a hand hammer. :) glad it went smooth for you except for the $ part
 

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