Rear driveline removal.

[one4fun]

I think i need a new u-joint. any tips/tricks for removing the driveshaft?

 

[firebane]

Unbolt the one end and slip the other end out. Make sure there is a bucket to catch the fluid that will be lost.

 

[one4fun]

So, it sounds pretty easy.

 

[cobra20]

it is just make sure u have the transmission in park so they driveshaft doesn't turn

 

[firebane]

So, it sounds pretty easy.

Yup. You'll have 2 straps on the rear end side of things held on with 4 bolts.

Changing those ujoints will be a big job tho unless you take it to a shop lol.

 

[MadOgre]

You know I have installed my drive shaft every way possible and I have never got vibrations from it going back in different then it came out.

If you think about it the drive shaft is removed and put on a balancing machine and balanced and then reinstalled into the vehicle. So why would it matter where the transmission or differential yoke is clocked to when reinstalling said drive shaft ? The transmission and rear end are not removed and placed on the balancing machine lol

I would definitely chock your wheels though lol

 

[CSFJ]

You know I have installed my drive shaft every way possible and I have never got vibrations from it going back in different then it came out.

If you think about it the drive shaft is removed and put on a balancing machine and balanced and then reinstalled into the vehicle. So why would it matter where the transmission or differential yoke is clocked to when reinstalling said drive shaft ? The transmission and rear end are not removed and placed on the balancing machine lol

I would definitely chock your wheels though lol

He speaks the truth. I spent 8 years in a dealership in a professional environment, and 14 before that in amateur status, and I've never had an issue with vibrations after the fact. I understand the reasoning behind marking stuff ahead of time, but realistically, it's rarely done.

 

[one4fun]

I will mark my drive shaft, just to be consistent. And wheels are always chocked when i work on the truck. I also use jack stands any time the vehicle is raised of the ground. I've got a lot to live for.

I have been looking at a few websites (napa, O'Reilly, AutoZone) and they all show couple different sizes that are available for the rear shaft u joint at the transfer case. Are there any numbers on the shaft or the existing joint that will identify which size i currently have? I wanted to have the parts in hand when i pull the driveshaft to replace the parts.

If i have to measure, where/how are the measurements taken?

 

[MadOgre]

its basically determined by what rear end you have. Although I believe the 10 and 12 bolts are the same and the 14Sf and 14 FF are the same.

Napa does how ever sell higher quality u joints then the competition. IMO I have tried all the other HD Joints and I am willing to even pay a couple more $ to run the Napa ones.

This is not because I like Napa, I actually dislike Napa, They are only good for U Joints and Oil Filters. Every thing else is just way over priced !

Napa should be able to find the right ones for the year, make and model(1/2 vs 3/4ton) They always give me the correct ones


Oh and go for the greasable ones. The ones with the nipples slightly offset to one side at an angle are best as you will be able to grease them with out having to remove the U Joint straps from the rear differential yoke. If you install them in the right direction lol. The ones that come straight out you have to remove the straps to grease them PITA!

 

[one4fun]

Is there anyway to determine from the picture whether this one has internal or external snap rings?

 

[MadOgre]

It looks to me like they are stock as in you need to heat up the yokes to extrude the plastic retainers out of the little holes on either side of each cap.

They should accept the inner style c clip.

Those are definitely not outer style so unless you can find c clips(snap ring) on the inside of each cap, then you will have to heat them up.

 

[MadOgre]

Simply remove your drive shaft and use a torch to heat up the part of the yoke that surrounds each cap until plastic oozes out of the little hole. should take about 5 min of heat to do this on each cap.

Once the plastic has oozed out then press out the u joint with a vise or c clamp and some sockets.

Then reinstall new joints in the same manner making sure that no needle bearings fall out of place when installing the cap

 

[MadOgre]

A quick way to remove u joints is to place the yoke ears on top of an open vice or a couple blocks of wood and then gently tap the drive shaft yoke down with a hammer. The u joint will slide to the one side, simply remove the shaft from the u joint and then repeat the process to remove the joint from the yoke

You can install joints in the same manner if you are careful not to damage any thing

This is how I do it and it takes about 5 min per joint to remove and install.

 

[bucket]

Rather than quoting all the posts in this thread, MadOgre is pretty much spot on with everything.

 

[one4fun]

Excellent!

So, I found a stamped number "522" on the broken joint. All i could find with that number online was Moog. But, I cannot find any measurements. Anyone know where to get the measurement specs for this or a cross reference to another brand?