rear disc brakes prop valve

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83Stepper

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Ahhhh there we go ! Yeah pretty amazing Ricko with all the Squares I've owned, built, fixed and worked on in my lifetime I've never replaced a Prop valve !
Can't say I've honestly ever replaced one either that I can remember. Usually it's another component that fails, like the soft rubber hoses leaking internally, rotted steel line thanks to the salt belt, or a sticking/failed caliper. If you're doing the Wilwood swap, personally I'd probably just use some tee's and unions and completely just bypass the stock proportioning valve since you're using the one that's coming with the kit. Or if you're really feeling like getting b@lls deep into it, just buy a coil or two of nickel copper line and make your own new full set of lines.
 

Ricko1966

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Can't say I've honestly ever replaced one either that I can remember. Usually it's another component that fails, like the soft rubber hoses leaking internally, rotted steel line thanks to the salt belt, or a sticking/failed caliper. If you're doing the Wilwood swap, personally I'd probably just use some tee's and unions and completely just bypass the stock proportioning valve since you're using the one that's coming with the kit. Or if you're really feeling like getting b@lls deep into it, just buy a coil or two of nickel copper line and make your own new full set of lines.
That's what he wants to do,but wanted to use the hollowed out proportioning valve in place as just a junction.That was why I told him mods needed and the opinion I'd just make a junction cut out if aluminum or brass to take the combination valves place. It would actually be fairly easy ( making a custom junction block)and all factory lines remain intact.
 

Fastduramax

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Thanks guys and yes Ricko is correct, I have no rotted lines but I'm blasting and painting the frame so I bought a full stainless line kit from the Stop Shop due to the fact I want all shiny new and when I bend brake lines it looks like a bowl of my Grandmas spaghetti ! Sooooo as many have suggested I'll neatly "junction block and union" where they meet at the prop valve and make it look factory... Just have to get to that point and see what I have then should be easy...
 
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