Power window and door lock install
- Thread starter Hoodbj
- Start date
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Hoodbj
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- Billy
- Truck Year
- 1987
- Truck Model
- R10
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- 5.7
Finished up today, here's a couple of pics of the wiring and the holes that have to be drilled. The holes are 1 1/2 diameter. I used a metal hole saw. Here's the hole drilled on the outside of cab with wire harness pushed through it. The door and outside portion if cab have small indentions where the holes need to be drilled. The interior portion of the cab behind the kick panel does not. I just drilled where donor truck hole was or as close to it as possible.
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Hoodbj
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Now all that's left is pushing the wires through the rubber boot that goes between the door and cab at the hinge. Rivet the boot to both the cab and the door. Run your wire into the door and plug harness ends into the switches, lock actuator and window motor. At this point make sure your wire is out of the path of the moving window. If all good you can reinstall your door panel which will need to be cut in order to fit the new switches. Do the same for both doors and all that is left is hiding the cross cab wiring under the dash. The door lock regulator will need to be bolted somewhere that is a good ground. Here is the pic of my now power door.
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ajordan282
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has anyone done this, or something similar, without removing the doors?
Snoots
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To do it right, better to pull the door. Just mark everything first including shims.
Nice write up!
Sideways pix. Out of focus pix. After a few shots they were clear.
Nice write up!
Sideways pix. Out of focus pix. After a few shots they were clear.
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Hoodbj
Full Access Member
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- Dec 29, 2013
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- Location
- Texas
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- Billy
- Truck Year
- 1987
- Truck Model
- R10
- Engine Size
- 5.7
Been a while since I did this but in order to drill the hole through the cab the door needed to be off. Also in order to drill the hole where the wiring goes into the door it requires the door to be removed. There were dimples on the cab and the door to locate where the holes needed drilled.
ajordan282
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- VA
- First Name
- Andrew
- Truck Year
- 1983
- Truck Model
- K10
- Engine Size
- 350
FWIW I did this without removing the door. I drilled the door from the inside, which was straightforward. I drilled the a-pillar from the inside of the cab, behind the kick panel then through the a-pillar. this was tricky though, because inside the a-pillar there is a gusset on an angle that runs from the kick panel side to the outside of the a-pillar. If you drill where the gusset is, you're hosed on that shot. you're gonna have to swiss cheese your kick panel till you hit the right spot (though once you drill it you can kinda see where to/not to drill on your second shot). oh and don't hit the door trigger wire. touch the bare metal up with some paint, install your conduit (i used the universal conduit from classicparts.com), run your wires, reinstall the your plastic kick panel cover and BOOM done.
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