Power window and door lock install

[Hoodbj]

I posted this I believe in the wrong spot under "interior". Here's what I've got finished so far. I'm installing power windows and door locks in a non power truck. This is the way I did it, maybe not the only steps to do it but they are in and work.

 

[Hoodbj]

First I lowered the window all the way. I then removed the vent window (above picture and below). There are two Phillips head screws and one 7/16 headed bolt.

 

[Hoodbj]

The 7/16 head bolt for the vent

 

[Hoodbj]

Now pull the window seal down so you can pull the vent window. If you have the chrome window visor it will need to be removed too.

 

[Hoodbj]

The vent window being removed

 

[Hoodbj]

Don't know why some pics are sideways but I guess just tilt your head, lol. Next I removed the 7/16 headed bolt that holds the opposite side window guide, you can also do this before vent window removal to give you a little more room if needed.

 

[Hoodbj]

Then I removed the brace across the large hole, two 7/16 headed bolts. This is where I pulled the manual window gear out of.

 

[Hoodbj]

Next I removed the latch rod that goes to the door handle, i only removed it from the handle side. It has a metal tab I pried up with a flat head screwdriver and then the rod will pop off.

 

[Hoodbj]

Now you can pull the four 7/16 head bolts that hold the window mech in place. Be careful as this is all that's left holding your glass.

 

[Hoodbj]

Now you should be able to pull the glass off of the rollers from the mech. The glass has a track on which the rollers slide. No good way for a pic on this one but just keep tilting and you'll get it. Once the glass is off the set it aside and you can pull the window gear thingy out the big hole. (Real technical, I know)

 

[Hoodbj]

Installation of power window mech is opposite order of removal. The only difference is the four bolts that held the manual mech in place was mounted higher up on the door. The power mech has two studs with 7/16 headed nuts and two 7/16 headed bolts. It's the four circled.

 

[Hoodbj]

The power lock actuator bolts directly onto the door with two 7/16 headed bolts and simply slides over the lock rod that comes up through the door panel. The rod on a power vehicle is longer than a non so make sure to grab it while you're robbing parts off salvage truck.

 

[Hoodbj]

And here is the difference in the rod length, the longer ended one is for power, this gives you enough length to slide through actuator

 

[Hoodbj]

Hope this isn't confusing. I'll try to finish up after I drill holes through the cab and doors for wiring. The wiring is pretty straight forward if you get the harness. Plug and play pretty much. Two wires in the fuse box, a ground plugged into side of cab up under dash(kind of behind bezel), then plugs directly into motor, actuator and switches. There is also a relay that is a son of a bitch to get to for the door locks that the harness plugs into. The only other piece is the cross section which stretches from drivers to passenger side that has two plugs to connect also. That's about it on wiring. Mine took a little longer because my donor vehicle was a burb so I deleted the wiring for the back doors.

 

[Hoodbj]

Here's the actuator with rod through it, the section that goes through the actuator is the part that is longer on the power setup.