Patina preserver blotchy finish: why?

[EastAustinSawdust]

Question for all the Poppy’s, Shine Juice, boiled linseed oil, and other patina preserver users out there: what is causing this consistent speckling with my Shine Juice finish?

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I shook the bottle before application (maybe not enough?), applied with a soft rag, and buffed with a clean soft rag. I applied immediately after washing and drying the truck, and did so in the shade. I live in Austin TX where it was 96 and sunny today, but I applied the Shine Juice this morning when it was in the low/mid 80s. Wondering what I could have done differently to get a better result. Thanks!

 

[PrairieDrifter]

If the prep was good, I would try a thicker coat. I haven't messed with that stuff yet though. So I technically know less than you lol

 

[Sad Sack]

Just curious but did you use a wax and grease remover after the wash before applying it ?

 

[Sad Sack]

Only reason I ask is many years of built up contaminates take some good degree of elbow grease to remove and most car washes will be insufficient. Personally I’d use just regular linseed oil after degreaser is used, may not last long but sure looks good. Depends on how much weather the vehicle is subjected too.

 

[EastAustinSawdust]

Didn’t use a special degreaser. Washed the truck in a diy car wash. Gave it a pretty good scrub and a pretty good rinse though. Then dried it with a towel before application.

As you can see the paint is uneven on the truck, I have sections that are bare oxidized metal, and others that still have lots of paint. Most of the paint is pretty oxidized, enough that you can run your hand across any part of the truck and a chalky residue comes off. Hence I tried to give it a good scrub/rinse and wipe down before application. The weird thing is that the speckled effect is everywhere, not just in one area.

 

[HUFFINCOSMOLINE]

Looks like some type of silicone or wax underneath your finish. I would start over in a small area with a good degreaser and wipeout applied. Then coat. See if you have the results your looking for.

 

[Ricko1966]

A little tip for all of you trying to bring back 900 year old dead paint. First thing give it a good wash with a bucket a sponge and bon ami/Ajax old powered bath tub scouring soap. The scrubbing power,cleanser of it and the mild pumice really does a lot.

 

[PrairieDrifter]

A little tip for all of you trying to bring back 900 year old dead paint. First thing give it a good wash with a bucket a sponge and bon ami/Ajax old powered bath tub scouring soap. The scrubbing power,cleanser of it and the mild pumice really does a lot.

Comet wash!

 

[Grit dog]

And car wash soaps generally contain paraffins and other agents to “suspend” dirt. Dish soap does not and it tends to help strip wax.
Comet bon Ami etc is harsher and will do more for removing stains as well as wax.
That said, NEVER apply a permanent coating to steel or painted surfaces without some sort of solvent wipe down.
Hotter solvents may/will soften or destroy old paint, especially lacquers and acrylics.
Unless you’re wiping down a tough surface like urethane products it’s best to use prep solution designed for the application. Prep sol, wax and grease remover. Before applying anything.
I’ve never used the newer patina coatings but suspect it’s similar to like Zep High traffic floor polish. Folks been using it especially on oxidized RVs for decades to bring back shine semi-permanently.
Although products like Poppy’s are a urethane.

 

[Smtty58]

If you need a less aggressive cleaner, try Bartenders Helper.

 

[ByrdDog]

My 60 Ford had a highly oxidized finish from sitting outside in the NM sun for 50+ years. I hit it with a mildly abrasive sanding sponge that completely removed all the oxidization. It did not take off any of the paint & after hitting it with a clay bar, then waxing, paint is shiny & almost glass smooth.
Before:

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After:

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[Grit dog]

My 60 Ford had a highly oxidized finish from sitting outside in the NM sun for 50+ years. I hit it with a mildly abrasive sanding sponge that completely removed all the oxidization. It did not take off any of the paint & after hitting it with a clay bar, then waxing, paint is shiny & almost glass smooth.
Before:

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After:

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Wow awesome truck!!
But that ain’t 50 years in the NM sun. Hence why the paint is still in relatively good condition. That truck lead a charmed life somewhere being shaded from the uv most of its life, fortunately.
Also some paint just won’t shine. Idk what or why but my old Jeep (also spent about 30 yrs in NM but it couldn’t have been left out in the sun as the paint is like your truck) has. Mostly original paint and the hood and 1 fender was repainted at some time.
The original paint shined right up after I polished off the oxidation. But the repaint part does not will not take a shine under any circumstances. Short of an oil or a clear coat like the patina juice stuff.

 

[ByrdDog]

I'll agree that your mileage may vary with regard to sanding off a chalky, oxidized surface. My K30 was originally a USAF truck that got a red repaint for service as a brush truck for some local volunteer FD. I tried the same pads on it & it did nothing for the finish.

 

[Grit dog]

I'll agree that your mileage may vary with regard to sanding off a chalky, oxidized surface. My K30 was originally a USAF truck that got a red repaint for service as a brush truck for some local volunteer FD. I tried the same pads on it & it did nothing for the finish.

That ford is a thing of beauty!!

 

[ByrdDog]

I wish my grandfather had been a GM guy - a 60 3/4 ton 4x4 Chevy would be MUCH cooler. Design of the 57-60 Fords look like they just stacked boxes for the models & called it good enough.