Parallel or Triangulated 4 Link With a PanHard Bar

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Tank6x2

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Anybody ever do one, right from fabrication, to getting machining done to installation and figuring out the geometry of it? For a lowered 6x2 on bags...input would be awesome, just trying to work out the information prior to starting something, don't just want to order a kit...
 

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RADustin

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I always prefer parallel with pan-hard or watts link. Bushing life and overall stability is much better.

On a solid axle front end on a street driven rig, parallel with pan-hard is the only way to avoid bad bump steer.
 
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Tank6x2

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You build your own ?

Or just buy a kit...
 

smoothandlow84

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Watts link...panhard bars end up mis-aligning the rear axle while in motion
 

smoothandlow84

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My friend and I installed a pan hard bar setup on his 91 extra cab silverado project...bagged with a four link, panhard bar and 22" wheels. Dual compressors, solenoids, 10 gallon air tank etc. Panhard bar when aired up to driving height will line up the rear axle fine. Geometry angles are out beyond spec when suspension cycles when driving. Theres binding of the u joints, enough to notice while driving. All the measurements worked out when installing, but alignment through the stroke has been an issue ever since. The axle likes to wander side to side enough to scrub the inner fenderwells. A watts link would have been worth the time and money we have invested in his build. Hes buying one soon
 

RADustin

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while never perfect for centerline axle alignment, panhards do a damn good job for how simple they are. Whether you want to admit it or not, your buddies setup probably could use some good tweaks to get much better performance out of the panhard.

On a solid front axle though, panhard is the only way.
 

smoothandlow84

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while never perfect for centerline axle alignment, panhards do a damn good job for how simple they are. Whether you want to admit it or not, your buddies setup probably could use some good tweaks to get much better performance out of the panhard.

On a solid front axle though, panhard is the only way.

...the o.p. has a bagged setup not a leaf spring. I agree that a solid axle with leaf springs..a panhard bar is ideal....not the same when it comes to airbags. The complex geometry involved with airbags including vertical and horizontal shifting makes it more difficult to maintain ideal alignment. A watts link pivots and maintains a true center as the airbags move during suspension cycling.
 

RADustin

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to each his own. Panhards when setup correctly perform fine. Bags/coils/leafs.

You'll have to call RideTech and enlighten them that they have been doing it wrong for 15 years. lol.
 

theblindchicken

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The biggest factors with panhards is the length of the rod and the angle at which it's set at ride height.

Longer rod = less horizontal movement through the suspension cycle.

Shorter rod = more horizontal movement through the suspension cycle.

Both will locate the axle in the desired position, just depends on if the horizontal movement is a big factor to you.

Worst case scenario, a really short panhard bar may look fine at ride height, but hit a dip and the can rear axle shift side to side as the suspension cycles.
 

smoothandlow84

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to each his own. Panhards when setup correctly perform fine. Bags/coils/leafs.

You'll have to call RideTech and enlighten them that they have been doing it wrong for 15 years. lol.

I have been building cars for 20 years....

I'm not in disagreement with you when it comes to a straight axle and panhard bars.

The setup is in fact a ridetech from front to back and we have been in contact them. The rep from ridetech is who suggested the use of a watts link for our specific application. You're correct...different strokes for different folks.

Our 69 camaro road course /track car has a panhard bar and adjustable coilovers and we dont have any issues with horizontal shifting...but then again the suspension setup doesn't see as much articulation on track as on a daily driver with airbags on all four corners.
 

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