NO power when key is in acc or on position

[lkbratcher]

86’ C10 SB350. Everything was great, parked the truck after work, in the morning everything connected to the ignition is dead. Battery is fully charged, headlights work, starter turns over fine with remote seater switch. But cab is dead, fan is dead, no start from the key, no power to distributor. I’ve checked the connections at the alternator, starter and battery. Any suggestions?

 

[Edelbrock]

Fusible link?

 

[Jgonick]

Check the fusible links- they are in two location- I marked them on attachment. The Red-2 wire I marked would go to the ignition switch that feeds a large portion of your fuse block & the fuse block itself( for hazard lights). If your headlights works, your BAT portion of the fuse block should be working- horn, tail lights, courtesy light.

If your hazard lights work- I would be looking at the ignition switch first. (hazard lights are fed by the same red wire feeding the ignition switch.)

 

[lkbratcher]

Didn’t think that was it the first time I looked at it. But, went back and checked again and the wire fell off at the terminal. Problem solved, Thanks.

 

[Kevin Hays]

Check the fusible links- they are in two location- I marked them on attachment. The Red-2 wire I marked would go to the ignition switch that feeds a large portion of your fuse block & the fuse block itself( for hazard lights). If your headlights works, your BAT portion of the fuse block should be working- horn, tail lights, courtesy light.

If your hazard lights work- I would be looking at the ignition switch first. (hazard lights are fed by the same red wire feeding the ignition switch.)

Hello, I am having the same problem. I bought a truck parked it and it sat outside for about a year due to back surgery. Go out to get it started, charged new battery. Lights work, dome light works, clock in dash(So annoying) But when I inserted my key nothing. NO Buzzer sound like normal, turn key over nothing. I put a test light on starter connections, test light works at junction block on firewall, red wire has power going into cab. Is there a fuse inside the cab that might be blown. Thanks Kevin

 

[Ricko1966]

Hello, I am having the same problem. I bought a truck parked it and it sat outside for about a year due to back surgery. Go out to get it started, charged new battery. Lights work, dome light works, clock in dash(So annoying) But when I inserted my key nothing. NO Buzzer sound like normal, turn key over nothing. I put a test light on starter connections, test light works at junction block on firewall, red wire has power going into cab. Is there a fuse inside the cab that might be blown. Thanks Kevin

Did you check all fusible links under the hood at the starter?

 

[CalSgt]

Hello, I am having the same problem. I bought a truck parked it and it sat outside for about a year due to back surgery. Go out to get it started, charged new battery. Lights work, dome light works, clock in dash(So annoying) But when I inserted my key nothing. NO Buzzer sound like normal, turn key over nothing. I put a test light on starter connections, test light works at junction block on firewall, red wire has power going into cab. Is there a fuse inside the cab that might be blown. Thanks Kevin

IIRC, There should be two RED wires that feed 12v to the cab through the fuse block bulkhead in engine bay.

I don't believe there is any other fuses for the ignition switch circuits besides the fusible links at the firewall junction near the brake booster and the two at the starter battery lug.

 

[75gmck25]

Since you have power for lights, the fusible links are probably good. Power from the key switch to the ignition is a little more convoluted to explain.

Turning ther key mechanism moves a rack inside the column, which then pulls a rod up and down the column, and that rod operates the electrical switch lower on the column. The switch has about 7 contacts, and the position of the key determines which contacts line up (power, start, accessory, etc). If anything in the rack/rod mechanism cracks or gets out of adjustment, the key no longer properly operates the electrical switch and you get no power, no start, etc.
Note - Headlights and interior lights do not get power through the ignition switch.

 

[Ricko1966]

Since you have power for lights, the fusible links are probably good. Power from the key switch to the ignition is a little more convoluted to explain.

Turning ther key mechanism moves a rack inside the column, which then pulls a rod up and down the column, and that rod operates the electrical switch lower on the column. The switch has about 7 contacts, and the position of the key determines which contacts line up (power, start, accessory, etc). If anything in the rack/rod mechanism cracks or gets out of adjustment, the key no longer properlyn is no in operates the electrical switch and you get no power, no start, etc.
Note - Headlights and interior lights do not get power through the ignition switch.

Lights is nowhere near enough of a predictor on fusible links.more than one link provides power to different circuits. Just like if your tail light fuse is good is no predictor that your radio fuse is good.

 

[Jgonick]

If your hazard lights work- I would be looking at the ignition switch first. (hazard lights are fed by the same red wire feeding the ignition switch.) The red wire splits after coming through the bulkhead - one goes to fuse block for hazards- & the other one(s) go to ignition switch

Hazards work?