New For Me 1985 Silverado 20 6.2 Diesel

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Blue Ox

Turning Diesel Fuel Into Fun
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LI-NY
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Derek
Truck Year
MCMLXXXV
Truck Model
K20HD
Engine Size
6.2L
If it was an issue, a friend of mine was a manager of a diesel shop.
He would put a steel liner in the advance of the aluminum case and problem solved at additional costs.

The problem with these is the weight retainer plastic retainer will disintegrate and look like black sand in the pump.
This plugs the return fitting on top of the pump.
If a Roosa Master cannot return fuel to the tank, it will not run.
You can remove the plugged fitting and it will again run.
There is a clear ball in that fitting that plugs with the black sand.
I have driven out that clear ball from a spare fitting and kept in my glove compartment, just in case.
You can use air to blow the sand out of the fitting but you need to push the ball off it's seat to get air to go both ways.
I usually just replaced that plastic retainer on the back of the weight retainer.
I comes in the gasket kit.
For my personal pickup, I went to the solid weight retainer and had the advance sleeved.
Most of the weight retainer remains in place, with the plastic retainer gone and works as it should but can wear on the pump case.
It usually gets replaced when the engine quits.
But a lot have ran for thousands of miles with the ball driven out of the return fitting.

I was just concerned that you were making out that rebuilding an injection pump is like rebuilding a fuel pump. When people start spouting off about how easy and cheap it is it's a disservice to the entire business. i.e. that's why I asked about the timing advance. Because unless they're sleeved they have about a 100K mile lifespan. And unless you use the reamers to check the wear and oversize the pistons they're going to run like cr@p. That might be why your experience of a degree or two of timing makes such a big difference. Not saying they shouldn't be timed properly but if the advance is shot they're going to be a pig.

BTW, running without a flex ring will beat the life out of the rivets on the weight cage. They not only shed metal into the pump, but will eventually break. When they break, the governor weights stop spinning and the governor thinks the engine is stopping. It's response will be to push the metering valve wide open. If the operator is quick on the key the solenoid will shut the engine down. If the operator isn't quick, or present, the engine's next destination is the moon.
 

Blue Ox

Turning Diesel Fuel Into Fun
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Truck Model
K20HD
Engine Size
6.2L
Anyone trying to save a 6.2 diesel, this is the head gasket trick.
It is a lot of work but it will save your head gaskets if they are still good.

Pull the valve covers and retorque the cylinder heads.
You will be amazed at how loose those head bolts can be.
I don't care if you use ARP studs, they get loose too.

A friend of mine overhauled a 6.2.
The heads were torqued and retorqued a number of times before putting into service.
At 3,000 miles he retorqued the heads and got a lot of movement out of the bolts.
At 6,000 miles in service, he again retorqued and got less movement, but got some.
At 9,000 the head bolts remained tight so he drove it.
The last I new it had 200,000 on the overhaul and still going.
You have to retain the clamping force on the head and gaskets.

Permatorque and other head gaskets do not replace the retorquing of a head.
Only torque to yield bolts will keep the proper head gasket torque and they will only do so much.
They fail also.

AFAIK all 6.2/6.5L were TTY. If you and your buddy were just torquing head bolts it might explain why they kept loosening up.
 

Craig Nedrow

NADAR UNDER THE RADAR
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1973 (have two), 1985
Truck Model
K10, K20, C20
Engine Size
350, 454, 6.2 Detroit
Don’t know why all the talk about the pump, didn’t mention it? Besides mine is a standyne, not sure of the spelling. Now I have lost all the power to the gages, sheesh.
 

LJ69

Junior Member
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Location
NY
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Mark
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
383 stroker
Feel free to chime in 6.2 motor owners as to where to find information on this engine. Internet has some great videos on R&R the pump. Looks like a sorta big job, but fairly straight forward.
My dad had a 6.2 diesel and I remember that the glow plugs are VERY IMPORTANT!! when they all worked, it started fine. If just 1 glow plug didn't work, we had to crank it forever to get it to start. Even on days that weren't that cold.
 

Craig Nedrow

NADAR UNDER THE RADAR
Supporting Member
Joined
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Posts
1,710
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Location
Washington State
First Name
Craig
Truck Year
1973 (have two), 1985
Truck Model
K10, K20, C20
Engine Size
350, 454, 6.2 Detroit
Yeah I know, love you too,love your posts.
 

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