Need help with Parking Brake cable routing on my 84 K20

[chopperroxie]

Does anyone know the years that the backing plate had the hole where the parking brake cable used tangs to lock it in as opposed to the dual plate with the 2 bolts holding it in. I have the dual plate but all the parking brake cable that I'm seeing for sale all have the locking tangs?

 

[Craig 85]

Looking at Rockauto 1983 is the last year for the 2 bolt style for the most part. There are a couple of applications for 1984. I put the GM part number into Summit Racing and most are for 3/4 ton 2WD with 11 rear brakes. The K20's only specify the cable length, not the drum size.

You can still get 13" backing plates for a tang style cable (13" x 2.5" brakes). GM 14056175 - left; GM 14056176 - right for about $60-70 each.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ado-18p152/applications/year/1984?page=3

 

[chopperroxie]

Thanks @Craig 85 , I think I may have to do that.

I'm thinking my rear is not the original one. From all indications, it's a JB7 but I think a different year. Is there any way to verify?

 

[Craig 85]

There are stampings on the axle tubes and on the ring gear. I couldn't find a reference for dating the axle tube, but I'm sure there are. Here's an example of the ring gear. This is for a '70 Chevelle.

GM part # 3862526
10 41 = 4.10 gears
3 70 = Manufactured March 1970

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[chopperroxie]

@Craig 85 , I finally got around to getting the right cable from LMC. I have the cable from the right side going over to the drivers side and I have the equalizer. I can't for the life of me figure out how this cable assembly works though. The front cable looks like it goes all the way from the pedal through to the left rear. The right is screwed into the equalizer. What pull on the equalizer to activate right rear?

Thanks much for your help

Corey

 

[Craig 85]

Stepping on the parking brake pedal pulls the Left directly. There's no adjustment. I believe the basic way it works is the R/R engages fist, which causes the equalizer to stop, then the L/R is pulled. I'm still fiddling with mine. I bought a longer than stock cable to replace my L/R to accommodate the lift, but I think it is throwing it off and making the brake cable go almost to the floor.

Dorman makes these cable tensioners if needed. That way you don't have to pull everything apart or replace the parts you have.

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[chopperroxie]

Oh that's cool, I think I could use those tensioners, thanks.

I still can't figure out how the Right Rear gets activated. It's attached to the equalizer by the nut, but it doesn't look like the equalizer will move at all. I'm so confused, I keep staring at this picture from the LMC Truck website and I can't make heads or tails of it.

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[Craig 85]

I'll try to explain it by the numbers. Maybe that will help.

You step on the parking brake pedal and it pulls cable #1 and equalizer #7. Cable #3 will also start moving because it it fixed to the frame near #4. Simultaneously, cable #2 starts sliding forward until all the slack is taken out. I believe the right brake will lock first (so long as you have the nut adjusted correctly). This will stop forward movement of #7/cable #2 and start applying the left brake.

Make sure your rear brakes are adjusted correctly. Any extra slack in the brake shoes will cause delay of the parking brake engagement. If you do need the Dorman part, it would have to be installed somewhere on either side of #5 connector.

 

[chopperroxie]

Thanks so much for the explanation. Only thing I don't get is, how does the Cable #1 move the equalizer #7. It looks like the #1 cable just goes all the way through the equalizer without attaching anywhere except the left rear brakes. It looks that way with your photos too. What am I missing?

 

[Craig 85]

This is the left rear hub with a 14 bolt FF. When you step on the pedal, you are taking up the slack in the spring with the rear arrow. At the same time the equalizer is moving forward. I believe the screw/bolt from the right side attached to the equalizer creates a stopping point for the equalizer bracket because the right side spring is fully compressed spring (red arrow). The system then starts pulling the levers marked by the yellow arrow and engage the parking brake.

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[chopperroxie]

Thanks @Craig 85

 

[Frankenchevy]

I may be overthinking it, but I’ll ask a question anyway. How do you determine if your driver side parking brake is already applying pressure with the pedal disengaged if the lever arm is already making contact with the front shoe and there is no adjustment in the driver side cable length? The passenger side has adjustment and I can adjust it to where I see a gap between the arm that presses on the front shoe to adjust accordingly.

Driver side with no gap:

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Passenger side with gap once cable is loosened:

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UPDATE:
I was able to work the housing on the driver side parking brake cable and get it to free up. It’s stuck in the housing a bit.

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Just replace the rear sections of cables and housings?

 

[Craig 85]

I may be overthinking it, but I’ll ask a question anyway. How do you determine if your driver side parking brake is already applying pressure with the pedal disengaged if the lever arm is already making contact with the front shoe and there is no adjustment in the driver side cable length? The passenger side has adjustment and I can adjust it to where I see a gap between the arm that presses on the front shoe to adjust accordingly.

Driver side with no gap:

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Passenger side with gap once cable is loosened:

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UPDATE:
I was able to work the housing on the driver side parking brake cable and get it to free up. It’s stuck in the housing a bit.

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Just replace the rear sections of cables and housings?

You still exist… lol. I haven’t messed with my brakes since I posted here in 2020. If your cables don’t freely move in the housings, I would replace them. Unfortunately I couldn’t find the OEM braided version. They only had the black plastic sleeves.

Definitely keep the stock lengths as you will avoid some of the problems I had.

 

[Frankenchevy]

You still exist… lol. I haven’t messed with my brakes since I posted here in 2020. If your cables don’t freely move in the housings, I would replace them. Unfortunately I couldn’t find the OEM braided version. They only had the black plastic sleeves.

Definitely keep the stock lengths as you will avoid some of the problems I had.

Thanks Craig! Hope your new state is treating you well and all is good with your family.

Do you recall where you purchased the cables/housings?

 

[Frankenchevy]

I ended up getting some AC Delco cable/housings.