Need advice - rear defroster repair for roll down window

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Daveo91Burb

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 6, 2014
Posts
663
Reaction score
229
Location
Vancouver, WA
First Name
Dave
Truck Year
1991
Truck Model
V2500 Silverado Suburban
Engine Size
Vortec 383, modified TBI/4L80e
My first attempt was a fail....

When I converted to tailgate several years ago for the first one or two years rear defrost worked great. (Barn door windows also had defrost). But, I must not have routed everything perfect because eventually there was a strain failure and the positive side connection to the glass broke. I lived without since then, but last weekend I pulled the glass out and started messing around.

A google search brought me to this stuff:

You must be registered for see images attach



I thought it was the ticket and followed instructions to a T, including bringing window into our basement vs my shop to get it up to the right temp. Ended up with this:

You must be registered for see images attach


But tonight I got the window installed in the gate and went to attach the pig tail to my new connector and it broke right off. Glad it broke there instead of after a few cycles when everything was put back together, but now I gotta figure out what to do. Soldering seems the only way to go (ground side is soldered), but I’m nervous about cracking the glass. Do I need to be?

I’m thinking about using this stuff combined with my pinpoint butane torch. Any other better ideas?

You must be registered for see images attach


Here’s what the ground side looks like:

You must be registered for see images attach
 

eskimomann209

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2019
Posts
1,849
Reaction score
2,000
Location
Modesto
First Name
Marcus
Truck Year
1973
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
5.3
Can you solder it?
 

Matt69olds

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2018
Posts
2,354
Reaction score
3,605
Location
Central Indiana
First Name
Matt
Truck Year
81
Truck Model
GMC 1/2 ton
Engine Size
455 Olds
I have used solder to reattach those tabs to the glass. Be quick with it, use a big soldering gun to melt the solder as quickly as possible. Let it cool slowly.
 

Daveo91Burb

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 6, 2014
Posts
663
Reaction score
229
Location
Vancouver, WA
First Name
Dave
Truck Year
1991
Truck Model
V2500 Silverado Suburban
Engine Size
Vortec 383, modified TBI/4L80e
I have used solder to reattach those tabs to the glass. Be quick with it, use a big soldering gun to melt the solder as quickly as possible. Let it cool slowly.

Cool. So you think electric soldering gun vs pinpoint butane torch? My thought was it would be even quicker with the torch, but maybe too quick would increase my risk of cracking it?
 

crpntr78

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2016
Posts
530
Reaction score
413
Location
Missouri
First Name
Jerry
Truck Year
86
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
350
Is it possible for you to slide a putty knife between the glass and part to be soldered to create a type of heat sink so you don't heat the glass up at all?
 

bucket

Super Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Joined
Aug 3, 2010
Posts
29,127
Reaction score
24,038
Location
Usually not in Ohio
First Name
Andy
Truck Year
'77, '78, '79, '84, '88
Truck Model
K5 thru K30
Engine Size
350-454
Is it possible for you to slide a putty knife between the glass and part to be soldered to create a type of heat sink so you don't heat the glass up at all?

Nope, it's sort of like it's embedded into the glass somehow.
 

Matt69olds

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2018
Posts
2,354
Reaction score
3,605
Location
Central Indiana
First Name
Matt
Truck Year
81
Truck Model
GMC 1/2 ton
Engine Size
455 Olds
Keep the torch away from the glass!! The tip of the soldering iron is maybe 500-600 degrees, I’m betting any torch would be well above. Not to mention it would be nearly impossible to contain the heat on the connector without overheating the glass
 

Craig 85

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2017
Posts
3,897
Reaction score
4,042
Location
Nashville, TN
First Name
Craig
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
K30 SRW
Engine Size
454/TH-400/NP205
I had this issue come up recently with a 2010 Denali XL. The glass shop said they had not had a lot of success soldering these tabs back on and said a glass replacement was the only realistic option. I passed.

Good luck on this. I'm interested to see if it will work.
 

Daveo91Burb

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 6, 2014
Posts
663
Reaction score
229
Location
Vancouver, WA
First Name
Dave
Truck Year
1991
Truck Model
V2500 Silverado Suburban
Engine Size
Vortec 383, modified TBI/4L80e
I had this issue come up recently with a 2010 Denali XL. The glass shop said they had not had a lot of success soldering these tabs back on and said a glass replacement was the only realistic option. I passed.

Good luck on this. I'm interested to see if it will work.

Yeah, I’m afraid that’s what I heard from a glass shop too. I stopped by a shop yesterday and the guy wasn’t super helpful, but he said basically the same thing and that they wouldn’t even try it.

However, some more Google and Amazon searching yielded this.

https://frostfighter.com/defroster-repair-tab-bonding-kit-2000.htm

Just purchased it on Amazon, should be here in a few days. $43 is the upper limit of what I wanted to spend on this repair. If this kit doesn’t work, I’m done and my truck will go on in life rear defroster-less.

I’m just too nervous about applying heat to the back glass for a solder-type repair. I have nightmares about having to replace that glass.
 

Matt69olds

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2018
Posts
2,354
Reaction score
3,605
Location
Central Indiana
First Name
Matt
Truck Year
81
Truck Model
GMC 1/2 ton
Engine Size
455 Olds
I have repaired dozens of S style blazer rear defrost windows with the broken solder tabs with a soldering iron. It really isn’t that big a deal. Use a big iron, heat the tab quickly, let it air cool, problem solved
 

rt66paul

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2016
Posts
230
Reaction score
109
Location
California
First Name
paul
Truck Year
1991 suburban
Truck Model
2500
Engine Size
7.4
I guess I could be a smartass and tell you what everyone on gun blogs tell Californians - move! to a state where it isn't a problem.
 

Daveo91Burb

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 6, 2014
Posts
663
Reaction score
229
Location
Vancouver, WA
First Name
Dave
Truck Year
1991
Truck Model
V2500 Silverado Suburban
Engine Size
Vortec 383, modified TBI/4L80e
I guess I could be a smartass and tell you what everyone on gun blogs tell Californians - move! to a state where it isn't a problem.

yep, agreed. Pacific NW, esp. west of Cascades, rear defrost is a key option for any vehicle if you have any hope of seeing out the back in the winter. When I converted to tailgate from barn doors I found rear visibility was one of the best benefits. But w/o working rear defrost it was worth nothing.
 

Daveo91Burb

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 6, 2014
Posts
663
Reaction score
229
Location
Vancouver, WA
First Name
Dave
Truck Year
1991
Truck Model
V2500 Silverado Suburban
Engine Size
Vortec 383, modified TBI/4L80e
$43 rear defrost kit worked! I should have rear defrost again next winter. This time I took great care to make sure strain relief for both connections installed correctly and routed/secured wires correctly.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
42,181
Posts
910,800
Members
33,675
Latest member
johnalen76
Top