My Rear End Build For My Low Buck Street/Race Truck

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HotRodPC

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The 60 foot is horrible. 1320/104.93=12.57. Next changes:

1. Fuel system
2. Ignition system
3. Aluminum drive shaft
4. 360 inch small block
5. Loser converter

Done racing this year. The drive train has a horrible amount of weight, you combine that with the altitude, the truck just will not leave, I'm working with 330 HP and about 285 TQ at this altitude, not enough.
Are you living up there now? If you live up in that high elevation and where you tend to race most of the time, maybe you might consider a small nitrous kit. Nitrous really isn't much than air injection. So if you can't get it suck the air in, then feed the air to it. You don't need to go with a huge kit. Maybe a 125hp kit and turn it down. All you're wanting to do really is get some air to it. But you know how that's going to go. You'll be tuning it up. Or at least on this next engine build, consider building it so it's at least N2O ready in the event you change your mind and want to squeeze it.
 

Mark Jones

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I'm impressed. I sure wasn't expecting 7/10th better ET with just a gear change. Was that all you did? So what is your converter stalling at now? And you're going to go to a what??? I was expecting no more than 5/10 or 1/2 second.

Have you considered a 383 stroker kit? You know how is it about racing. You can never get it fast enough, then you want faster and faster. Why not just skip the 360 and go straight to the 383 now? Have you done any research on the 383 kits yet? If you go that route just be sure to get the longer rod kit.
Thanks, gears, and rims were changed, never did get the aluminum drive shaft built yet. Converter flashes 4200 RPM, but I need around 5600 RPM. It drives just fine in town on the street and we drive it very often.
 

Mark Jones

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Are you living up there now? If you live up in that high elevation and where you tend to race most of the time, maybe you might consider a small nitrous kit. Nitrous really isn't much than air injection. So if you can't get it suck the air in, then feed the air to it. You don't need to go with a huge kit. Maybe a 125hp kit and turn it down. All you're wanting to do really is get some air to it. But you know how that's going to go. You'll be tuning it up. Or at least on this next engine build, consider building it so it's at least N2O ready in the event you change your mind and want to squeeze it.
Yes, we live in Colorado right now. Your nitrous idea makes sense but, power adders is never a option in my shop ever. This truck has a story, and it started out as project for my 15 year old son to learn how too:

1. Find and buy a virgin engine old school SBC core no one would bother building and make something out of it for almost nothing. Normally we wouldn't bother building a 327
2. Machine and build and test the engine
3. Put the engine in the truck, and build the truck around the engine
4. Finally take the truck to the track and race it.
5. His goal was to run 12s at altitude, now were going to turn it up

I have pictures of my sons 327 engine build if anyones interested.
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bucket

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I'd like to see more on the engine build! Any 327 that can get a truck into the 12's has to be a good build.
 

HotRodPC

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454 - Turbo 400 - 3.73
Yes, we live in Colorado right now. Your nitrous idea makes sense but, power adders is never a option in my shop ever. This truck has a story, and it started out as project for my 15 year old son to learn how too:

1. Find and buy a virgin engine old school SBC core no one would bother building and make something out of it for almost nothing. Normally we wouldn't bother building a 327
2. Machine and build and test the engine
3. Put the engine in the truck, and build the truck around the engine
4. Finally take the truck to the track and race it.
5. His goal was to run 12s at altitude, now were going to turn it up

I have pictures of my sons 327 engine build if anyones interested.
You must be registered for see images attach
I was always that too. All motor. I always said adders are for cheaters. Build your **** to run without crutches. In fact I have made a sticker for that. :lol:

Got the right 327 too. If you're gonna run a 327, run a small journal 327 with a forged crank. Do some head work to that engine and a bigger cam that's not very streetable you can get that truck into the high 11's with that quick turning small journal and the forged steel crank.

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Mark Jones

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Engine Size
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BigDaddy72

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That’s cool love to see father and son working on hot rods!!!
 

HotRodPC

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That's great you have access to a line hone/bore machine. I've passed on a few blocks due to unknown line bore. I get to someone's house to buy a block and see the mains off the block, I just cringe. I noticed yours were too, and I was hoping you had them marked. There's so many out there that WANNABE an engine builder, pull it apart, and didn't mark **** then expect someone will buy it when they decide it's over their head. Line bore is just something I won't a chance on and it's so expensive when I know I can find another block that was either never tore down, or tore down properly for less than the cost of a line bore.
 

Mark Jones

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That's great you have access to a line hone/bore machine. I've passed on a few blocks due to unknown line bore. I get to someone's house to buy a block and see the mains off the block, I just cringe. I noticed yours were too, and I was hoping you had them marked. There's so many out there that WANNABE an engine builder, pull it apart, and didn't mark **** then expect someone will buy it when they decide it's over their head. Line bore is just something I won't a chance on and it's so expensive when I know I can find another block that was either never tore down, or tore down properly for less than the cost of a line bore.
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Mark Jones

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1979
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Engine Size
327
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Mark Jones

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1979
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C10
Engine Size
327
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Waylon

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Mark,
Most of them really don’t know who you are.
But stick around. I’m sure you will pick up a few good engine building and chassis tuning tips along the way.

I foresee a 496 with 781’s in the future of that truck.
 

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