my 83 chevy will not stay running

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cyberhaney

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larry
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1983
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c10
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4.1 6 cyl
need some help figuring this out bought a 83 c10 about 2 years ago been sitting for a while rust in tank etc got it running pretty good gas guage didnt work filter kept getting clogged took off the carb about 6 times cleaned it each time and replaced filter got some bad gas in it about 3 months ago seized up my electric fuel pump and carb. replaced the tank/ sending unit/ elect fuel pump installed a carb kit.... the truck willstart up but will die start up and die it will try to stay running so long as you pump the acellerator pump thin will die checked for vacume leaks found none carb is full of gas but dorsent make any difference the carb is a rochester 2 barrel. took it off took it to a mech. friend said theres nothing with the carb says he thinks its my distributor i have the one with the coil in top of the cap and moduel inside the dist. can anyone give any suggestions sorry for the long story
 

1987 GMC Jimmy

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need some help figuring this out bought a 83 c10 about 2 years ago been sitting for a while rust in tank etc got it running pretty good gas guage didnt work filter kept getting clogged took off the carb about 6 times cleaned it each time and replaced filter got some bad gas in it about 3 months ago seized up my electric fuel pump and carb. replaced the tank/ sending unit/ elect fuel pump installed a carb kit.... the truck willstart up but will die start up and die it will try to stay running so long as you pump the acellerator pump thin will die checked for vacume leaks found none carb is full of gas but dorsent make any difference the carb is a rochester 2 barrel. took it off took it to a mech. friend said theres nothing with the carb says he thinks its my distributor i have the one with the coil in top of the cap and moduel inside the dist. can anyone give any suggestions sorry for the long story

Hmm, it sounds like it may be a good idea to drop the tank(s), drain it/them, clean it/them, and replace the strainer sock(s) at the minimum. It may be good to change the whole sending unit since they're not expensive when ordered online. Of course it could be a signal or grounding issue as to why your gauge doesn't work. That may not necessarily fix the problem, but it very likely needs to be done. Are you running a 292 in it? I can understand the electric pump if your cam lobe wiped, and you can't make the mechanical one work, but personally I would prefer the mechanical where I can use it, and that's 95% of the time. 99.9% on a stock truck. It sounds like a fuel problem to me. If it's an ignition problem, it's not a major one, I don't think. You could always try getting a fuel can and pulling the fuel directly from the pump. If it runs properly or at least better, your problem is gonna be at the tank. If not, you can temporarily rule out the tank and focus on the pump, carb, and engine. Have you checked the accelerator pump yourself? You can look down the throat of the carb, actuate the throttle, and fuel should squirt the instant you move the throttle. It should be a healthy squirt, too. If it doesn't start squirting immediately or if the fuel flow looks sloppy, the acc. pump diaphragm may be bad. If you want to look at the cap and rotor, you can. Corrosion, melting, cracking, and carbon tracking are all tell tale signs of those pieces needing to be replaced. I wouldn't suspect your distributor itself including the pickup coil, ignition control module, and HEI coil at this time. You can inspect the wires for arcing or corrosion at the contacts inside the boots. Also make sure that there's no breakage or chewage on the outside of them. Plugs are important, but I don't think that's the main source if any of your problems. What did you check for vacuum leaks? Emissions parts, hoses, that kind of stuff? Did you check your base gasket for the DualJet? Did you inspect it visually or use an aerosol combustible to see if you idle changed? Hope that helps.
 
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cyberhaney

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larry
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1983
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c10
Engine Size
4.1 6 cyl
already replaced the tank/ sending unit/ put on a mech. fuel pump new base gaskets rebuilt the carb. the accel. pump shoots plenty of gas . new filters etc. soaked the base plate and gaskets with starting fluid no change. plugged all the vacume ports on the carb no change i guess a new distributor is next
 

1987 GMC Jimmy

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already replaced the tank/ sending unit/ put on a mech. fuel pump new base gaskets rebuilt the carb. the accel. pump shoots plenty of gas . new filters etc. soaked the base plate and gaskets with starting fluid no change. plugged all the vacume ports on the carb no change i guess a new distributor is next

Wow, okay. Looks like you hit this pretty hard. Does it still have an EGR valve on it? If the plunger sticks open or the plunger can't hold vacuum, they create a lot of issues. The old style ones have an exposed plunger, and you can move the plunger up and down to make sure it's free and then push the plunger up, cap your finger over the port, and see if the plunger stays up. Same on the new ones except the plunger is enclosed in a clamshell, and you have to remove the valve and use a narrow instrument to move the plunger. The aforementioned tests are the same, though. Also, if you have it, it may be good measure to take a moment to remove the valve and gently clean the carbon out of the pintle with a flathead screwdriver. Other than that, it sounds like you've done a lot, and you should look into the ignition. I'd check out the cap and rotor before you replace the whole thing, though.
 

notime2d8

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Have you adjusted the two idle adjustment screws on the front? I think it's all the way in then 2.5 turns out for a base my last one had maybe 4 turns to idle well? There's ​also the throttle adjustment screw.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
 

1987 GMC Jimmy

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Have you adjusted the two idle adjustment screws on the front? I think it's all the way in then 2.5 turns out for a base my last one had maybe 4 turns to idle well? There's ​also the throttle adjustment screw.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

Yeah, my car's like 3.75 turns out give or take a quarter turn. I think I need to adjust my curb idle up a hair, but it's pretty good.
 

chengny

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Get a can of starting fluid (ether) and see if you can keep the motor running by squirting reasonable amounts down the carb throat. This is equivalent to Jesse's suggestion of pouring gasoline down the throat - it just provides a bit more control. But even using quick, controlled shots of the ether, the idle speed will fluctuate - if it is a fuel flow problem.

If, while using the starting fluid, it appears that you could keep it from stalling indefinitely - or until you ran out - you have will have isolated the problem to the fuel supply.

Do a volume test. Disconnect the fuel line at the carb and attach a hose to the end. Put the other end in a container (at least 12 ounces - a beer bottle is good). Crank the engine for 15 seconds. Stop and note the amount of gas in the bottle. You should have at least 8 - 10 ounces.

On the other hand, if the engine dies - just like when it is running on the normal gas supply - then you can eliminate the fuel supply and start diagnosing the ignition system.


Pull a plug, re-attach the plug wire and place the body of the plug in contact with a clean metal spot on the engine block. Start the engine and watch the condition of the arc across the electrodes of the exposed plug.

A healthy spark is thick, bright blue in color, jumps quickly across the gap and will emit an audible snap. If you observe the spark as a thin yellow thread that trickles weakly across the gap, you have an ignition problem.
 

HotRodPC

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Hit Jerry's suggestions on the fuel system as far as volume and pressure. You say you put a "KIT" in the carb. What did you do as far as cleaning this carb? Just about sounds like a clogged idle circuit or orifice.

Did the carb get a good soak in some Carb Cleaner? Did you blow out our chase any orifices with a thin wire?
 

HotRodPC

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Does your carb look like this? These are some real picky bitches.
 

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cyberhaney

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my carb kinda looks like the one pictured but a litt different mine is a vari jet 2 cleaned the carb with cleaner 3 times made shure all the holes were clean that i could find if you pump the acellerator it will keep running or floor it it will run wide open got the idle agj adj rite my carb only has one idle adj screw on the side of the carb was one of those sealed ones pur chased a new dist. waieing for it to come ups thanks for input guys ive been working on chevy csrs and trucks all my life this one has me stumped
 

cyberhaney

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iv the dist doesnt fix it gonna take carb back off and clean it again never used the wire chaser thanks
 

cyberhaney

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c10
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4.1 6 cyl
by the way it will stay running if you shoot starting fluid or choke it with the palm of your hand everything is new on it except the carb.... new tank , sending unit, man. fuel pump, dist cap ,rotor, plug wires etc
 

cyberhaney

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thanks ill try that got a new dist coming
 

WFO

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by the way it will stay running if you shoot starting fluid or choke it with the palm of your hand everything is new on it except the carb.... new tank , sending unit, man. fuel pump, dist cap ,rotor, plug wires etc

Sounds like it's starving for fuel.
 

HotRodPC

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Sooo, has it ever ran right after the new fuel pump??? Have you disconnected the fuel line to verify you're getting fuel to the carb? Disconnect the line and hold a jar or something over the fuel line and have someone crank it.

Fuel pumps can be bad even new or remanned. But more common than a bad fuel pump, the ecentric on the front of the cam could be broke or damaged and it's not hitting the fuel pump actuator making the pump work. The I6 works off the ecentric bolted to the front of the cam, not a cam lobe like the Small and Big V8's do.
 

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