Learning as I go, but I'm stumped. Timing or an ignition issue?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

DoubleDingo

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 3, 2012
Posts
10,184
Reaction score
14,493
Location
Right where I am
First Name
Bagoomba
Truck Year
1981, 1965
Truck Model
81-C20 Silverado Camper Special-TH400-4.10s; 65-C20 with 4:57 gears and Borg Warner Overdrive
Engine Size
Carb'ed Vortec 350; 1972 L48 350
LS will fix everything....NOT
 

Bextreme04

Full Access Member
Joined
May 13, 2019
Posts
4,192
Reaction score
5,096
Location
Oregon
First Name
Eric
Truck Year
1980
Truck Model
K25
Engine Size
350-4bbl
I'm just saying if I have to get a top end kit, with heads and all I'd be looking at $2000, or I could buy a junkyard 5.3, a flexplate match my muncie, and motor mounts. I have a spare pcm from my Tahoe. It could theoretically be done for cheap.

But I get what you're saying. Verify the issue, before I go spending a bunch of money.

Why would you need a top end kit with heads? I got a set of big block heads completely redone, including new guides, positive lock for $600, you should be able to get SBC heads redone for WAY less than that. Heck, you can get used vortecs and a matching intake for less than that.

Find the issue.. then make a decision from there. Here's the steps I would take to take to make sure I have a solid foundation before I try and isolate the issue.

  1. Verify TDC mark on Harmonic Balancer(there are lots of methods for this, I have a tool that I use but you can also use rope or similar)
  2. Verify Cam lobes, lifters, pushrods, and valve springs are all in good condition.(you can take both valve covers off and crank motor while watching the motion of everything to get a quick idea if one cylinder is moving different from the others)
  3. Try to verify whether your timing set is worn(also lots of methods, I would start with rotating the engine counter-clockwise until the rotor starts to move then rotate clockwise until it starts to move again. If you have to rotate the crank a lot for that to happen, you need a new timing set and maybe distributor gear)
  4. Set initial valve lash(by starting at #1 and then rotating 90 deg of crank rotation between each cylinder in the firing order)
  5. Install distributor correctly and rough set timing. (180 degrees out is in reference to the cam, not the crank.. the crank would be 360 degrees out since it take two complete revolutions of the crank for one complete revolution of the cam)
  6. Verify proper firing order of wires on distributor and verify good spark (I would use a quality spark checker for this)

Once you have done all of those things, if it still wont run enough for you to set final timing and valve lash, I would then start looking at things like a compression check and cylinder leak down check.
 

Nicolai8775

Junior Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2020
Posts
23
Reaction score
10
Location
Minnesota
First Name
Nic
Truck Year
1983
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
350
Ok. Sorry I never got back to this thread. Was switching jobs and life got complicated.

After many attempts at timing this. I know I have it right. I have the rotor aimed at cylinder one. I drop the distributor in after I timed it to TDC. I had the valve covers off. I watched the intake valve close completely after it blew air out the plug hole and matched the mark on the balancer to 0. I made sure my spark plugs wires are in order with number 1 plug wire on top of the rotor that is aimed at #1 cylinder.

Is it possible that the harmonic balancer slipped? I read somewhere that it sits in a rubber sleeve of sorts and can shift around. Causing your mark to be off. Whatever cheapass bolt was on the balancer before was a shallow depth and I stripped the head turning the motor over by hand so many times.. so I got creative... Managed to rotate the harmonic balancer somehow with a pry bar. Last time I had it started it kinda sounded like the harmonic balancer was squealing or rubbing. Something up front at least.

I'm telling you when I crank it over I get nothing. Sometimes I get a spit out the carb with starting fluid. Sometimes I blow apart my muffler. I don't get it.

I'll obviously have to pull to verify but wanted your thoughts.

If this WAS the case, I'm having a hard timing understanding how it looks like the intake valve and exhaust are completely closed and the mark is on TDC.
 
Last edited:

Rusty Nail

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2015
Posts
9,787
Reaction score
9,681
Location
the other side of the internet
First Name
Rusty
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
C20
Engine Size
350sbc
Three months later and dude is still a noob...

LS will fix everything....NOT
NOT because all you really need is teh vortecks heds as long as you haz black wheel.
Word?
You can get em with the bedazzle....that's what they do to their cheap assed junkyard black wheel - they get a bedazzler and spruce em up see? All around the rim?


xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

I especially liked the part where noob "forgot" to add about the vortecks in the Tahoe.
Two pages of blather @Tom Sawyer :) about how to determine the problem AND THEN -out of the blue- noob decides to buy cylinder heads. o_O

I really liked that part about the gopher hole too!

Y'all still think im mean. :nono: just cuz I got a nose for ********.

This thread is really great EXCEPT THERES NO FVCKING PICTURES! :mad:

I gotta go. Y'all keep up the good work, I think he's about to get it. :waytogo: any minute now..
 
Last edited:

Nicolai8775

Junior Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2020
Posts
23
Reaction score
10
Location
Minnesota
First Name
Nic
Truck Year
1983
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
350
Not sure what exactly you're ranting about, or why ya gotta be such a ***** when I'm just asking for help. Nobody bought cylinder heads that I'm aware of and if I did, it's my ****** truck, I can do whatever I want. Thanks pal. Let's keep the discussion on topic eh? Go create your own thread with your own nastiness on it bitch
 
Last edited:

Nicolai8775

Junior Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2020
Posts
23
Reaction score
10
Location
Minnesota
First Name
Nic
Truck Year
1983
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
350
Hey mods, can you just delete this thread for me? There's no education going on here. Just ********.
 

Nicolai8775

Junior Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2020
Posts
23
Reaction score
10
Location
Minnesota
First Name
Nic
Truck Year
1983
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
350
Three months later and dude is still a noob...


NOT because all you really need is teh vortecks heds as long as you haz black wheel.
Word?
You can get em with the bedazzle....that's what they do to their cheap assed junkyard black wheel - they get a bedazzler and spruce em up see? All around the rim?


xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

I especially liked the part where noob "forgot" to add about the vortecks in the Tahoe.
Two pages of blather @Tom Sawyer :) about how to determine the problem AND THEN -out of the blue- noob decides to buy cylinder heads. o_O

I really liked that part about the gopher hole too!

Y'all still think im mean. :nono: just cuz I got a nose for ********.

This thread is really great EXCEPT THERES NO FVCKING PICTURES! :mad:

I gotta go. Y'all keep up the good work, I think he's about to get it. :waytogo: any minute now..


Hey can I report my own thread to have it deleted or can you do it for me since you know everything?
 

Nicolai8775

Junior Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2020
Posts
23
Reaction score
10
Location
Minnesota
First Name
Nic
Truck Year
1983
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
350
Selling an '83 k10. $50. It's as ****** as Rusty Nail's attitude. Come get it the **** out of my garage. I'm too retarded to figure it out.

Offer ends today. Nobody buys it I'll put an axe through every single panel and piece of glass and scrap it in the morning.

It's in Minneapolis metro.
 
Last edited:

Nicolai8775

Junior Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2020
Posts
23
Reaction score
10
Location
Minnesota
First Name
Nic
Truck Year
1983
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
350
For you, it's $1,000. You ****. Get the **** out of here. Not my problem that you had family issues when you were a kid and you grew up to be a big bad keyboard warrior.

Away from the keyboard I bet you're the kind of guy that beats his wife when she brings home the wrong kinda Natty Lite. Just a sad little man with something to prove. Explains why you're a total ****** on a noobs question thread.
 
Last edited:

DoubleDingo

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 3, 2012
Posts
10,184
Reaction score
14,493
Location
Right where I am
First Name
Bagoomba
Truck Year
1981, 1965
Truck Model
81-C20 Silverado Camper Special-TH400-4.10s; 65-C20 with 4:57 gears and Borg Warner Overdrive
Engine Size
Carb'ed Vortec 350; 1972 L48 350
For you, it's $1,000. You ****. Get the **** out of here. Not my problem that you had family issues when you were a kid and you grew up to be a big bad keyboard warrior.

Away from the keyboard I bet you're the kind of guy that beats his wife when she brings home the wrong kinda Natty Lite. Just a sad little man with something to prove. Explains why you're a total ****** on a noobs question thread.

Easy crusher!
 

Nicolai8775

Junior Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2020
Posts
23
Reaction score
10
Location
Minnesota
First Name
Nic
Truck Year
1983
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
350
Easy crusher!
Well damn what a rude ass ************ he is. Like I said, getting back to it after a few months after life got complicated for a minute. So yeah, still a ****** noob. Nothing's changed. Can I get some constructive advice or criticism instead of whatever the hell Rusty is doing? Jesus lol
 

75Monza

Full Access Member
Joined
May 5, 2017
Posts
1,362
Reaction score
2,840
Location
Colville, Washington
First Name
Jeremy
Truck Year
1980, 1982, 1985
Truck Model
K30, K20, K20
Engine Size
454, 383, 350
Straight up brutal advice...you've stated you're a noob on **** like this already and this is obviously beyond the internet mechanic fix so either can shell out and pay for a knowledgeable mechanic to tear into your motor and figure out the problem because seeing is believing OR sell it on craigslist to some other hopeful and run like hell.
 

Nicolai8775

Junior Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2020
Posts
23
Reaction score
10
Location
Minnesota
First Name
Nic
Truck Year
1983
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
350
I'm not afraid to tear into it. And I wasn't asking for some sort of pep talk before I do it. Cause I'm going to regardless. Just haven't had time. Came back to the thread hoping for a refresher honestly. Saying hi as the legendary noob that blew up his muffler and had no shame to share it with you guys. Lol but apparently rusty doesn't want any of that **** on HIS forum
 
Last edited:

Poppy 87

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2019
Posts
1,074
Reaction score
1,923
Location
Bloomingdale GA
First Name
John
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
R10 Silverado
Engine Size
305
Sounds like it slipped time or has excessive timing chain wear. As @Bextreme04 stated earlier, might be time for compression test and cylinder leak down. Inspect that balancer they do in fact slip if worn. If removing balancer, not much more work to remove timing cover to inspect the timing chain and gears. We all understand life happens. Take your time, be methodical in your diagnostic approach, and you will get that ole truck running. Good luck
 
Top