No start and I am stumped

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germando

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Well we got it started. We knew it was something stupid we were overlooking. Evidently the carb float stuck and was keeping the engine flooded.

Fixed the carb and she started right up. With the cam and crank set to 12 o clock lol. Sorry had to as long as the distro is set correct 12 and 12 or 12 and 6 work

From being flooded for 2 days some gas got into the oil. So changing that and will be good to go

G
 

xm20k

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Well we got it started. We knew it was something stupid we were overlooking. Evidently the carb float stuck and was keeping the engine flooded.

Fixed the carb and she started right up. With the cam and crank set to 12 o clock lol. Sorry had to as long as the distro is set correct 12 and 12 or 12 and 6 work

From being flooded for 2 days some gas got into the oil. So changing that and will be good to go

G
Good to hear you got her running.

Hopefully no damage from all that fuel.
 

bucket

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Boy, there sure was a lot of discussion about everyone agreeing with each other.

Dot to dot or both dots straight up... either works.

One way makes it easier to accidentally be off a tooth. The other way requires you to rotate the engine over before stabbing the dizzy at #1. Pick your poison, lol.
 

germando

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Haha. It’s an edlebrock 750 with electric choke. Putting rotela 15w-40 in it
It has stock steel wheels with the snap on chrome accents and center caps. And it’s a fleetside.

Don’t get me started on the carb thing it is my daughters truck and the edelbrock works for her use

Anything else

G
 

bucket

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Haha. It’s an edlebrock 750 with electric choke. Putting rotela 15w-40 in it
It has stock steel wheels with the snap on chrome accents and center caps. And it’s a fleetside.

Don’t get me started on the carb thing it is my daughters truck and the edelbrock works for her use

Anything else

G

I think you got them all, lol.






No, wait... White letters in or out on the tires? :rofl:
 

xm20k

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Haha. It’s an edlebrock 750 with electric choke. Putting rotela 15w-40 in it
It has stock steel wheels with the snap on chrome accents and center caps. And it’s a fleetside.

Don’t get me started on the carb thing it is my daughters truck and the edelbrock works for her use

Anything else

G
Whats wrong with Eddys? :)
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HotRodPC

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Cam spins 1/2 speed of crank, after 1 revolution of the crank it'll be dot to dot. Its easier to screw up and be off a tooth doing it that way though. Dot to dot is #1 TDC on exhaust stroke and #6 TDC on firing.
I've messed up plug wire routing 1 space all through the firing order before and they wont start. No backfiring or anything.
Yep and Yep. 1 wire off won't start cuz it's far enough out, but no backfiring cuz it's not far enough out.
 

HotRodPC

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Well we got it started. We knew it was something stupid we were overlooking. Evidently the carb float stuck and was keeping the engine flooded.

Fixed the carb and she started right up. With the cam and crank set to 12 o clock lol. Sorry had to as long as the distro is set correct 12 and 12 or 12 and 6 work

From being flooded for 2 days some gas got into the oil. So changing that and will be good to go

G
That's awesome. I knew it woud be something simple, but it wasn't something you were missing or overlooking. I wouldn't have expected stuck float, not down anyway. Smart move changing the oil too. That'll be some thin gas saturated oil since all that gas got past those new rings that aren't broke in. Yes, the 12 and 12 work cuz turn it 1 more time and is 12 and 6, so no matter what, you still do end up with the dot to dot and that is #1 TDC on the compression stroke where you'd want point the rotor to #1 plug wire. 12 to 12, #6 is at TDC compression stroke.
 

Mike_82_Shortbox

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Just my two cents after reading through this thread.

If you're getting good fuel and good spark, then even if the distributor and camshaft are 180° out, you're going to get some kind of crazy backfiring, coughing through the carburetor, maybe even a fire.

What you need to do is disconnect all the plug wires, pull the distributor, get access to the timing gears, then set the number one cylinder to top dead center. The dot on your crank gear should be straight up at 12 o'clock. Rotate the cam gear so that the dot is straight down at 6 o'clock.

Some guys like to advance the cam about 4° (2° at the cam), which moves the power band down the RPM curve, giving you better low RPM power, which is where most street cars are driven.

When you install the distributor, the rotor should point roughly toward the number one cylinder, and you should have plenty of room on the vacuum advance to go forwards and backwards to fine-tune the timing. I borrowed a couple images to help conceptualize this. Good luck! It should run.

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Ricko1966

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Boy, there sure was a lot of discussion about everyone agreeing with each other.

Dot to dot or both dots straight up... either works.

One way makes it easier to accidentally be off a tooth. The other way requires you to rotate the engine over before stabbing the dizzy at #1. Pick your poison, lol.
Or just the distributor pointed at number 7,everyone's a winner!!!!
 

JD1973

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With the dots not being set right, I would check all the push rods, You might have bent some.
 

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