Is this the right radiator?

[bucket]

My 'Burb is an '87 and it still has a 2 post alternator, very much original wiring. Yours also looks to be serp belt as opposed to V-belt. I always thought the switch was in '89 when they got the ugly new grille/lights/side mouldings/mirrors/steering wheel/etc, but maybe I was wrong? Could it be just because my '87 is only a V10 1/2 ton TBI350?

Cool, so '87 was certainly a changeover year where it could be either/or.

Mine pictured is an '88, no serpentine belt. Just the ribbed alternator belt that GM started using on stuff around '84.

 

[RecklessWOT]

Cool, so '87 was certainly a changeover year where it could be either/or.

Mine pictured is an '88, no serpentine belt. Just the ribbed alternator belt that GM started using on stuff around '84.

Aah, gotcha. Yeah, the "multi rib V belt", my truck has that too (not cpmplaining, it crtainly is less likely to squeal). Hard to tell without seeing the belt itself. Just thought if it was a crossover year the different style belt might explain the difference, but aparently not. So it really was just whatever the hell they had laying around? Lol. My truck has no options besides the power tailgate window and Silverado trim (manual windows/locks, no rear A/C, no tape deck, etc) so maybe a more robust alternator wasn't needed?

 

[AuroraGirl]

The CS130 doesn't put out more power while driving though. It just has a better low RPM power output than both the 10SI and 12SI. Although with the 3:1 pulley advantage, most engines are spinning the alternator at about 1800-2100 rpm at idle, which has the 94 amp 12si producing about 50amps at idle and the CS130 producing about 60-65. It's interesting to see the difference based on engine type, I can't think of any amount of accessories except for maybe dual electric cooling fans that would need that amount of current even at idle.

I havent been summoned and Im saddened by that, but i became a Cs130-ad244 alternator expert in my free time and have a lot of 10si and 12si knowledge too. There are a few variables, first, the alternator curve would probably be the thing to define the alternator, the 12si can spin faster and make more amps while the CS130 starts to get hot.. tooo hot. They are the achilles heel of the cs130 design because its just Not a bad unit, just the more energy at low rpm and how big it is just ended up making it start to be problematic with increasing electrical loads
The trucks RPO list would be a good way to find the spec.

However, in this whole conversation, the question shouldnt be cs130 vs 12si, it should be whats the best ad230 (without enlarging the mounting spacing) or ad237 (would require the cs130 serpentine mount with the two lower holes and not the direct across ones with the tension manually appplied. the ad230 can be wired with a resistor or a dash bulb(incandescent or a LED and a resistor... best to use a resistor and a incandescent in my opinion) for the charge light bulb check, that would be wired to the excite an then the sensing wire would be best placed at the battery or a postive fuse lug on, say, a power block. The sense wire is just reading the system voltage at a spot, to maintain the self regulated voltage reading at that spot and not just the alternator. If you dont use the Sense wire ,you would have a regulated at the power lug of the alternator. Also make sure the case is grounded GOOD!!

There is some debate on using the starter positive for the sense wire but my gut would be to avoid that on a old style starter but would be fine on a pg260 but depending on how the truck is wired for fusible links or diodes, you may have some variables i dont know to confidently say that is a good idea. The battery positive post is a easy no BS way to do it. As long as your cables are not voltage drop city, you would be ok. The pulley should use a Cs130 but you may need a metric sized one if that was standard

They make pullies for all applications and diameters if needed new one. The AD230 can spin like a cs but it will cool it much better, has better output at idle, and the rpm limits I BELIEVE were higher so a small pulley could theoretetically.. but I would just match the original alts diameter because it will outperform it in all manners if you do it right.

 

[AuroraGirl]

My 'Burb is an '87 and it still has a 2 post alternator, very much original wiring. Yours also looks to be serp belt as opposed to V-belt. I always thought the switch was in '89 when they got the ugly new grille/lights/side mouldings/mirrors/steering wheel/etc, but maybe I was wrong? Could it be just because my '87 is only a V10 1/2 ton TBI350?

you can find out what alternator you have by measuruing the diameter of the stator. it should be 130mm (5.12 inches) or 144mm (something i dont want to convert)
CS-130
-Charging
-System
-130mm Stator outside diameter
that has 105 amperage rating

8mm X 1.25 thread on the tension ear is the difference for the two to switch, a 10si to cs130 plug adapter or new pigtail(has a Delphi weather seal), and its 4 pins not 2.

The CS and AD series alternators have a feature built in that is called "Load Response Control" when large demand is placed, the alternator doesnt instantly load down the system, it gradually steps up output to be smoother on the system(huge for Serpentine belt with strict tension needs and less tolerance for slipping

If the Alternator Solid state rectifier bridge detects issues maintaining output, it will provide a ground for the charging indicator. this means a situation where it cannot keep up with demand, but I suspect improper tension, too large of pullies, and maybe even bad charge cables might be more able to cause this. Also, up grade that charge wire because we all know they suck this many years later. Bigger cable for more output.

Note, that the CS series alternators may appear to undercharge under cruise with low demand, this is normal. the alternator runs down to 10% of the time, 90% off(energizing the internals to maintain voltage) and the needle may not behave the same way as older ones, because they werent that smart inside to do that.

AD series alternator is better at detecting issues and defaulting in situations to allow function, and i believe the internal heat sensing can also lower itself for preservation purposes if that was a problem for some reason.

also, both provide a tach signal too. cool. (Diesel or maybe EFI uses, one could be closer to the PCM while one for instruments)
Also PWM on both series for PCM, but the PCM would need to match the type. AD is what you will find on the 99+ PCMs, the early CS would not use the same PWM as a late CS (or CS130d) or AD. CS130d and AD would be same. but this is basic control we are talking like "dont turn on till engine is running" and "battery is low please turn on" not the 2004+ 2 wire connector BS