Intake Manifold Bolt Issue

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firebane

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In increments. 10ft/lbs, 15ft/lbs, and last 25ft/lbs

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Most people just hand tighten then go back after a bit and retighten. 25ft/lbs is very little force. The only reason you use a torque wrench is ensure even pressure.

But not all of us own a 1/4 or 3/8 torque wrench.
 

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The reason to use an even torque sequence is the need to "seat" the intake evenly to the head. Not all heads have the same intake flange angle, thus even more need follow the even torque sequence in increments. Sure it can be done by hand, and I'm sure many have with good results... but you can rent a torque wrench at a part store and get your money back after it's been returned :)

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firebane

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The reason to use an even torque sequence is the need to "seat" the intake evenly to the head. Not all heads have the same intake flange angle, thus even more need follow the even torque sequence in increments. Sure it can be done by hand, and I'm sure many have will good results... but you can rent a torque wrench at a part store and get your money back after it's been returned :)

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Our parts stores don't rent tools LOL. Its why I made a $10 harmonic balancer installer.
 

Swims350

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well that's when you go to harbor freight or order off their websites if they ship to you and buy one. I just bought a 1/2 one for $10.
 

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This^^^

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The problem is you cant get a torque wrench on the inner bolts of the after market intakes. So you have to do it by hand. I recheck mine 4 or 5 times after install.

Felpro 1256 for gaskets if you want it to seal.
 

MadOgre

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You cant get a torque reading with those. Not an accurate one anyways. Those are torque multipliers.
 

350runner

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So subtract lol

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Well you would have to know how much :)
 

350runner

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Lol :)

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Swims350

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I usually use short shocket and wobble or even swivel to get at em, if not I just got with a wrench, I'll run down the four inners, or whatever following th epattern above, when I get to the outside I usae the torque wrench, then I go back with a wrench and see how tight they are with thw rench, since I know they are torqued right and try and duplicate the same amount on the inner 4. if nothing else you see how much force it takes to tighten more or back them off, and just do the best you can.

That my friend is where the tbi head 4 center bolts different angle or vortec heads make it nice, it's easier to get on the tbi cantered bolts then the old school ones, and vortec don't have any centers lol.
 

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Yep I would agree. Good stuff.
 

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I second that. Nothing wrong using that method if you have to.

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chengny

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I use stainless socket head cap screws for bolting the intake manifold to the heads (with a cut washer and lock washer under each):

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Then, when it's time to make up the manifold/head joint, the inner four bolts:

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can be easily accessed and torqued using a 5/16" ball end hex driver:

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And - like Mad O suggests - "Felpro 1256 for gaskets if you want it to seal", the gasket matters.

Personally, I use Mr Gasket 5820 intake manifold gaskets. They require some modification to look good (i.e trimming of the outside edges so they to conform to the shape of the manifold). But the raised bead assures a tight seal at both the air inlets and coolant passages:

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