Not sure anything I said is untrue. I’ve yet to see an aftermarket fan pull more than about 2500cfm each.
I called all the oem quality suppliers. I just ordered a Griffin radiator for my older Cummins. I talked to one of their tech guys who adamantly talked me out of their dual spal setup even though it would’ve turned my $1300 order into a $2000 order from them.
I stand by the premise that one should not try to solve an overheating problem on a truck being “driven at highway speeds” as the OP stated with an e-fan. There’s something else going on if the OEM setup is insufficient.
It’s hard to say a truck is pulling 20,000 cfm across its radiator above 40mph without taking into consideration all factors. I’ve yet to come across a test with an anemometer showing that. What I have seen are bench flow tests that actually show that many e-fans restrict air flow through the radiator more so than a large shroud from a single clutch fan. I’d guess it’s due to the shroud’s shape and the smaller openings of E-fans have more stuff in the way i.e. several more tightly spaced blades and a tightly spaced grill behind the fan blades.
I would agree that e-fans are capable and a viable choice for lighter duty applications, but they are not a smoking gun to solving overheating and I certainly wouldn’t tow heavy with one.
Thanks Jeremy. In my OP I didn't originally make my problem totally clear. In the OP I wrote that I had, "a problem cooling when I've been driving
at highway speeds and outside temp hits about 95 or more", and then finished by asking how I might be able to cool it down after
I shut my truck off. In a later post in this discussion I think I cleared that up but a lot of folks didn't catch it.
My problem on these 95+ days occurs when I've been on the road for a while and either stop and park and then return 15 or 20 minutes later and try to restart it, or, like happened one time, after 1.5 hours of 70 mph and 95+ degree highway driving, hauling 3700 lbs in the bed, traffic stopped near the top of a 2 mile grade. Shortly, my truck died, couldn't start it, and got towed home.
If I can keep it moving even at a crawl and not stop dead in those situations, I can keep it going.
So first, as many suggested, I'll continue to work on improving the OEM "version" of the cooling system. If I still need better results, I can modify the system to keep the coolant circulating fast, and the fans blowing fast, when I'm going slow after highway speeds. I think it will keep that built up BB heat cooled down. Other than that, Ol' Brutus (my dually) only has 113,000 miles and runs smooth and strong. No performance mods but once I get that 454 and 4-speed rolling it goes like a bat out of hell!
Even for my original lack of clarity, I got lots of great info, tips, and food for thought. It caused me to re-examine my engine. I noticed a very small amount of coolant below the hoses going through the firewall on the engine side, to my heater core. Snugging the clamps didn't help. Plus, another small amount of coolant wetness around the thermostat neck. So I have a possible drop in coolant pressure and need for repairs. Plus, I've got more to check out because of everyone's help, including yours.
Hey, you wouldn't happen to know how to re-gear my old wall clock to get it to run at half speed would ya? It's Spring and the grass is growing, garden's not planted nor seeds started (way late), logs sittin' back by the wood shed for the second half of next Winter's heat, and I'm stuck replacing Ol' Brutus' passenger window innards, all the struts on my 300,000+ mile Pontiac (miracle car), and sourcing a remanned 4R70W tranny (Jegs?) for my beautiful, but immobilized, "95 Merc. No complaints though. No bombs or missiles, nobody shooting at me, got a good roof, good food, heat and a good family.