IN NEED OF A FUEL TANK SELECTOR VALVE SINGLE PIN 6 PORT

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Bigtime53

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$300, wow...sounds like I should create an eBay account to sell all my pulled parts. I must be sitting on a gold mine.
YES you should open a ebay account if you want to sell some parts. It is hard to find parts for these trucks when you live where there are none around and no salvage yards.
 

78C10BigTen

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YES you should open a ebay account if you want to sell some parts. It is hard to find parts for these trucks when you live where there are none around and no salvage yards.
I have an ebay account but ive never sold just bought
 

rt66paul

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You could go old school and put in a manual valve and mount it through the floor just left of the driver's seat, like I did when I put saddle tanks in my '69. Switching the valve to the unused input is also just about as good as a kill switch for anti-theft purposes.
 

highdesertrange

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you could use two 3 port valves but you would have to adapt the return lines to 3/8's for the return valve. or you could delete the return system by installing a non-return fuel pump. then you could use one single pin 3 way. highdesertranger
 

Bigtime53

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I have not had time to reply to this thread until now. The one I ordered was from Stock Wise Auto parts and they had a pic of the exact one I needed so I ordered it. Well when I got it {yes you know} it was the wrong part. I had hell getting all of my money back from them so I do not recommend getting parts from them. So there is this spot that sticks up [call it a ***] that I believe is part of the molding when they made it was leaking gas from it. I went to the parts house and the guy recommended I use a gas tank repair to stop it from leaking. So I bought it and then I cleaned the valve off with WD 40 first then I used some electrical parts cleaner which dries it off and removes any oil from the surface then you have to kneed the repair puddy until you get a even color to it. I applied it to the area where it was leaking. It has a 1 hour fully setup time but I let it go a couple of hours then I fired up the truck and it has stopped it from leaking. So far so good but I am still going to find another valve if I can just in case.
 

Frankenchevy

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I have a six port, but I set it aside just in case I ever do some sort of parts correct resto. what I’m doing with my project to simplify my set up for EFI, yet keep my dual tanks for camping and for long trips: I have my high pressure efi pump in my drivers side tank and plan on that being my main tank. From my passenger side tank I’m running a 12v transfer pump plumbed into the driver side tank. When the driver side tanks gets near empty, I’ll hit the switch mounted in the stock selector location and simply fill the driver tank from the passenger tank. 40 gallons of go juice simplified. No selector valve to worry about. I’ll keep an extra pump just in case, they’re small, cheap and available at any parts store...
 

idahovette

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I sent a 1 wire 6 port valve to Kasey 1977K-10 a while back. Don't know if he still has it but you could check. It clicked when 12 volts applied. Neither one of us wants much for it ,just want somebody to get some good out of it.
 

Bigtime53

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Ok who is Kasey? I would sure like to have a spare if he wants to turn it loose. If someone could have him message me his contact number or whatever I would appreciate it. Thanks
 

Obwonkonobe

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Maybe use 2 3 port valves?
 

asltrfl

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Rock auto has the 6 port "Standard Motor Products" valve, and it's cheap, for an excellent brand name.
 

flying2275

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Rock auto has the 6 port "Standard Motor Products" valve, and it's cheap, for an excellent brand name.

That is the wrong 6 port valve. That one is for the 81 and up trucks.

The valve he needs has a single wire on it and is used on the 75-80 trucks.
 

Rickf

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Can you use a multi-wire 6 port valve and figure out which wire activates the solenoid?
 

asltrfl

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That's a tough one, I can't say at this point. I have done search after search and it's darn complicated. I really don's see why not, it's actually simple wiring, it's all about the switching to ground. I really wish I could help, MY problem was that the wires from the switch were pinched between the left hand side fuel tank frame mounts, squished all the switch wires to ground. It was a pretty easy fix for me once I started tracing wires. But these were a factory wiring set-up, and the last owner replaced the tanks with new, and pinched the factory wires between the tank mounts and frame upon re-installation. An easy fix, but a hard to find issue. Wish I could help.

Hell, I don't know why you could not just use a basic momentary toggle switch on any 6-port valve, and NOT use any of the ports you do not need, it's not complicated. You have two suctions going to fuel pump, and two returns going back to the tanks (left tank, right tank) and a momerntary switch for each. The valve determines both suction to carb and return to tank. And the valve automatically switches the fuel gauge to read which tank is being used.

It's almost impossibe to explain in words, but the wiring diagrams I have found here are almost just as impossible to understand as well. It's the damn dash switch that is the most confusing in words, diagrams, and theory. But I know, for a fact, that it is simple, once you understand it...if that makes any sense at all.

For most of us, it's the damn Ground wire. The tanks senders are grounded to the frame? I don't know. The dashboard switch is grounded where? It shows that it has a ground, but where is it grounded to? Or the switch uses the ground off of the tank senders, hell I don't know, the schematics suck.

As I said, I fixed mine by finding pinched wires on the left tank mounts, but before that I was assuming that I had bad grounds or sending wires and I still could not figure out all the F'n posts here.

I wish someone smarter than I would do a complete breakdown, wire-by-wire, to help us all out. OR maybe I'm just a freakin moron.


Good luck Brother.
 

Remo76C15

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This what you need? I have a 1976 C10 parts truck with many parts I don't need.
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