Ididit Column Swap

[RanchWelder]

Obtained an Ididit column for the 87' Blazer.

Since this unit is about 5 years old or more, thought I'de take some pics and explain the internal differences between the OEM column and the nice-r stuff.

First off, this unit has a different shaft and is a lil' bit shorter than the OEM GM version.
It was left over parts that a good guy left me.

The new version of this 30 in. column is $962 to $1140.00.
This shorter tube will work at the firewall mounting plate.
So long as it makes it through the firewall, it's going to work.

The Chevy Replacement version is a lot more money from Ididit.
Last looked they are special order?

My plan is to cut the OEM 1 inch "Double D" shaft and weld into the coupling.
It will match the OEM length and use the OEM intermediate shaft, when completed.

You must be registered for see images attach

My Blazer now has a floor shifter, so eliminating the column shifter and badly worn out threads at the wheel, while significantly improving the bearing with Ididit's design resolves a bunch of headaches.

You can see in the picture above, I'm using the Brogeson 40 spline to 1-1/2 in round 314300 coupler.

You must be registered for see images attach

My friend left me the very rare 40 spline to 1 in. DD swivel, however, the Chevrolet 3500 OEM style intermediate shaft is already installed.
DORMAN 4255603 RockAuto $203.00

You must be registered for see images attach

This is a lot cheaper than the aftermarket Borgeson version.
No more Rag Joint.

You might have to trim the 3/4 in DD shaft for your application, so it can collapse if you get front ended, no matter what intermediate you use.

The alternative versions from Borgeson requires custom cutting, because they are designed to add "DD" shaft so trucks with a body lift and suspension lift have a longer throw.

Because the Dorman unit already has an industry standard swivel, you cannot add a swivel to a swivel at the column end, where it passes through the firewall.
Not without a solid bushing mounted to control the swivel to swivel rotation. Some guys use a swivel to swivel with a pillow block to get around exhaust or other mods.
The stock intermediary elevation and direct line to the Borgeson Steering Gear, will work for my aplication.

My project is: cut the OEM shaft and bush the 1 inch seat to the 1-1/2" couple and weld it up.

The new Borgeson 12:1 ration steering box is installed.

I'll post pictures as the parts come in and it gets put together.

Here's some comparison between the Ididit and OEM internals and switch systems:

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

The Low Voltage wires were broken off at the switch, by the previous owner.
Ididit answered the phone and offered to send me out a replacement.

I'm interested in how other forum rebuilder's have handled eliminating the Ignition Switch on the OEM column.

Here's one possible solution from the Jeep wiring system:

You must be registered for see images attach

One of the relays is a 70 amp for the starter circuit.

This means cutting the factory harness under the dash and wiring it in using the low voltage wires from the small column rotors switch or using the dash mount switch, if Ididit cannot replace the COLE unit with a working solution. The Tech Support agent said they had issues with these rotors switches.

Overheating when soldered or intermittent shorting due to close proximity of the tiny solder lugs might have caused these mini switches to fail often?
The tiny wires from the COLE switch originally had a 6 connector Micro Molex female, that Ididit supplied as an ignition control relay.

My budget cannot afford $203.00 for the Ididit relay unit. (There's two different versions).
The relay's laying around from another project will have to work.

It would be cool if any of you have customized the ignition on a TBI and can chime in on what to expect when altering the column ignition switch delete?

If anyone has the COLE Switch (without the wires broken), a picture of the solder connections and pins would be helpful too?

It's 8 lugs, with 2 rotary circuits bridged together.
The Cole unit reacts exactly like the GM switch.

Key in - Off
Back for accessory
Forward for power on
Momentary forward to pins 4-8 for the ignition/starter.

We'll see what they send me to make this work.
Customer support was great!

 

[RanchWelder]

Here's a side by side of the upper column from Ididit's older version and the 87' OEM unit:

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

On the lower left picture, you can see there's a small rectangular extrusion in the plastic casting near the OEM ignition switch.

Not sure it's possible to grind that polymer away and re-use the OEM switch/stalk for wiper control.
Turn signal using matches, however the circuit controller won't fit into the steel Ididit upper cover.

I'll probably use the stalk switch mounted to the dash for now, until I can discect the OEM wiper switch, determine the rotation and pin-out and come up with a momentary switch and single pole double throw or double pole double throw solution for the the OEM Wiper Control Module.

Thought I had the wire diagram for that thing somewhere?
If you guys have the circuit and wire color codes for the column to control module, I'de be interested in the pin-out please?

Figure a momentary push to activate the mist/wiper timer and then a small 3-position micro-switch for intermediate, Slow, Fast should work.

You must be registered for see images attach

Ordered a pair of high-er amperage relays from AZ, in case the inrush current for the starter is too strong for the standard Bosch Style 70A?

Read online the starter can get up to 35A during initial ignition across the starter solenoid?

I'll be soldering the fly-back Zener diodes and resistor's, as usual when these relay circuits are finalized.

The Ididit column's came with a small ignition control module, when the column key version came out.
The PO must have lost it, when he got lost and bought another unit.

It was put back together clocked incorrectly and the switch with the broken solder wiring was removed when I got it.

The 1 in. ID x 1-1/4" in. OD bushing is on the way.

You must be registered for see images attach

Could not find a solid coupler with 40 spline to 1 in. "DD"".
Besides the swivel I showed above, could not locate another 40 spline to 1 in. "DD"".

It was on the shelf next to the column. Must not be available any more?

The lower OEM will be cut and welded to the bushing, so it connects to the 40 spline properly.

Any advice or previous experience would be welcome.

 

[RanchWelder]

Tore down both columns.

Was able to swap the 40 spline bottom shaft into the Ididit column.

The lower shafts are interchangeable.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You can see the Delryn bushing mod for the old column.
Ididt's version is similar. Black Delryn? Did not check to see if there's a bearing down there... maybe?

You must be registered for see images attach

The top shaft threads at the steering wheel were shot on the OEM unit.
The bearings are much better design on the Ididit.

You must be registered for see images attach

Spent a bunch on spare parts to weld and adapt because was not certain the Ididit would match or if it could get damaged tearing it down.
So the coupling and the swivel will not be required.

Pulling the side pins from the new unit was not easy.
There's 10/28 threads (?) inside the pins that connect the tilt head shroud.
It took 2 different screws and a lot of prayer to pull them.
Tolerance's are very tight and the pins are side-loaded when the springs and column latches are engaged.

Was very concerned it might not come apart for an hour.
Lot's of tapping and internal prying finally released the side pins.
Used a framing hammer on the screw heads with a shim to get the last pin.

The upper case did not get cracked. It could have with everything flopping around on the floor.
Build a stable base to work on and/or strap it down with ratchet straps if you take on the disassembly.

With any luck, the new switch kit will arrive from Ididit and the column will get re-installed in less than an hour.

These new 250A relays showed up from AZ today:

You must be registered for see images attach

The 70A relays are much smaller.
From what the other buyer say, these are over rated, so in-rush of approximately 180-200A should be OK.
Hope it never sees that much. My concern is the larger contacts for longevity. We'll see if it works out.
The 250A are for starter relay or winch, if it ever gets that far.
They were sold by the pair and will find a use sooner or later.

Couldn't find the 70 relay pigtails with the 10ga wiring at NAP.
They sell the relays but not the receptacle or piggies.
One of the pics up above show one of the 70A with the connector, so they do exist...
You can see the pins are 0.375" on 2 legs of the smaller units.

More consumables are on order.

 

[jcperformance]

Obtained an Ididit column for the 87' Blazer.

Since this unit is about 5 years old or more, thought I'de take some pics and explain the internal differences between the OEM column and the nice-r stuff.

First off, this unit has a different shaft and is a lil' bit shorter than the OEM GM version.
It was left over parts that a good guy left me.

The new version of this 30 in. column is $962 to $1140.00.
This shorter tube will work at the firewall mounting plate.
So long as it makes it through the firewall, it's going to work.

The Chevy Replacement version is a lot more money from Ididit.
Last looked they are special order?

My plan is to cut the OEM 1 inch "Double D" shaft and weld into the coupling.
It will match the OEM length and use the OEM intermediate shaft, when completed.

You must be registered for see images attach

My Blazer now has a floor shifter, so eliminating the column shifter and badly worn out threads at the wheel, while significantly improving the bearing with Ididit's design resolves a bunch of headaches.

You can see in the picture above, I'm using the Brogeson 40 spline to 1-1/2 in round 314300 coupler.

You must be registered for see images attach

My friend left me the very rare 40 spline to 1 in. DD swivel, however, the Chevrolet 3500 OEM style intermediate shaft is already installed.
DORMAN 4255603 RockAuto $203.00

You must be registered for see images attach

This is a lot cheaper than the aftermarket Borgeson version.
No more Rag Joint.

You might have to trim the 3/4 in DD shaft for your application, so it can collapse if you get front ended, no matter what intermediate you use.

The alternative versions from Borgeson requires custom cutting, because they are designed to add "DD" shaft so trucks with a body lift and suspension lift have a longer throw.

Because the Dorman unit already has an industry standard swivel, you cannot add a swivel to a swivel at the column end, where it passes through the firewall.
Not without a solid bushing mounted to control the swivel to swivel rotation. Some guys use a swivel to swivel with a pillow block to get around exhaust or other mods.
The stock intermediary elevation and direct line to the Borgeson Steering Gear, will work for my aplication.

My project is: cut the OEM shaft and bush the 1 inch seat to the 1-1/2" couple and weld it up.

The new Borgeson 12:1 ration steering box is installed.

I'll post pictures as the parts come in and it gets put together.

Here's some comparison between the Ididit and OEM internals and switch systems:

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

The Low Voltage wires were broken off at the switch, by the previous owner.
Ididit answered the phone and offered to send me out a replacement.

I'm interested in how other forum rebuilder's have handled eliminating the Ignition Switch on the OEM column.

Here's one possible solution from the Jeep wiring system:

You must be registered for see images attach

One of the relays is a 70 amp for the starter circuit.

This means cutting the factory harness under the dash and wiring it in using the low voltage wires from the small column rotors switch or using the dash mount switch, if Ididit cannot replace the COLE unit with a working solution. The Tech Support agent said they had issues with these rotors switches.

Overheating when soldered or intermittent shorting due to close proximity of the tiny solder lugs might have caused these mini switches to fail often?
The tiny wires from the COLE switch originally had a 6 connector Micro Molex female, that Ididit supplied as an ignition control relay.

My budget cannot afford $203.00 for the Ididit relay unit. (There's two different versions).
The relay's laying around from another project will have to work.

It would be cool if any of you have customized the ignition on a TBI and can chime in on what to expect when altering the column ignition switch delete?

If anyone has the COLE Switch (without the wires broken), a picture of the solder connections and pins would be helpful too?

It's 8 lugs, with 2 rotary circuits bridged together.
The Cole unit reacts exactly like the GM switch.

Key in - Off
Back for accessory
Forward for power on
Momentary forward to pins 4-8 for the ignition/starter.

We'll see what they send me to make this work.
Customer support was great!

That sounds like a solid plan for your '87 Blazer project. Modifying the OEM Double D shaft to match the original length is a clever way to keep the factory intermediate shaft while upgrading to the Ididit column. Just make sure those welds are deep and secure since you're dealing with your steering connection.

 

[RanchWelder]

No welding will be required now the lower ball column shaft is swapped out.

Here's the high Ratio Gear installed.
It required some hard washers for stand-off with the frame stiffener plate Welded in there.
They do not ship them, so plan on having some that fit the machined circles in the Borgeson Gear bolt locations.
Lil' silicon held them in place. Went a lot easier than expected.
You can eat that gear if you get screwed up during re-assembly with washer's nuts and bolts not cooperating.
Your working blind re-installing the bolts and spacers.

An extra hand would have been sensible.

You must be registered for see images attach

Here's the Summit Racing Pump with a mag filter for the crumbs.
It's a lil dusty from sitting out in the weather this winter.

Was hoping that would resolve the gear issues, however it did not.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

The frame was not broken. The plate was added to prevent it from happening.

Messed up my paint job... again.

Once the column is installed, every component in the steering and suspension system will have been replaced.