Help me build my truck - What should I do?

What are the top 4-5 things from the list that you think I should do?

  • #1 8.1 Swap

    Votes: 6 50.0%
  • #2 Manual Swap (non-OD)

    Votes: 2 16.7%
  • #3 Axle Swap

    Votes: 3 25.0%
  • #4 Suspension Lift/Upgrade

    Votes: 8 66.7%
  • #5 Humvee wheels/tires

    Votes: 1 8.3%
  • #6 35's for my stock 16's

    Votes: 5 41.7%
  • #7 37's on craigslist 17's

    Votes: 2 16.7%
  • #8 Custom Trailer

    Votes: 1 8.3%
  • #9 Deck Out the Exterior

    Votes: 3 25.0%
  • #10 Deck Out the Interior

    Votes: 5 41.7%
  • #11 Add Overdrive

    Votes: 2 16.7%
  • #12 NP203/205 doubler

    Votes: 3 25.0%

  • Total voters
    12

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Hunter79764

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I have 2.5 flip. Stock shackles. 6in springs. Rides okay. Eventually I want to switch to 4 in springs and 6in shackles.


I've talked to ORD on the phone and read up on their literature available online.

What I've found is:

...

From the sounds of it I would think you should do 2.5 shackle flip and 6 inch shackles and then add in the 1in zero rate or 1/4 in relocation plate and you'll be hovering around 4in of lift with stock springs. I would probably do the 1 inch zero rate so you'd have a total of 4.5 in rear lift which in conjunction with 4 in front springs will either level or give you a tiny bit of rake ( depending on how squatted your suburban suspension currently is)
Thanks, that's an awesome summary and confirms most of the inklings I've got about it so far, and your last line looks like the path for me to take with it. I don't know how to pack light, so I'll likely be hauling more gear than most. Even if I get into a trailer with it, there's still a good change some natural rake would be appreciated. I also just HATE squatted truck stance...
 

Hunter79764

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They are longer than most years. Either 87 or 88 the factory front shackles grew in length and are actually the same length as the ORD front shackles. So the OP may have longer front shackles, or he may’ve missed it by a year.
I'll put a tape on them if I get a chance, but I plan on replacing them with ORD shackles either way, just maybe using the length to tune the ride height a little bit.
 

Hunter79764

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Quick question, I'm under the impression that a DRW Dana 60 and a SRW Dana 60 are the same except for the hub adapters (i.e. spacers), and if I were to remove those hub adapters, I'd have the same thing as a SRW unit. Is that close enough to the truth? i.e., running the humvee wheels (which I just can't get out of my mind...) needs about 3.5" increase in WMS each side, and I think the DRW axle is about right for that. But if I go back to stock type wheels, I'd want to remove the spacers and have stock width WMS. Am I wrong on that?
 

chief_shotts

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Thanks, that's an awesome summary and confirms most of the inklings I've got about it so far, and your last line looks like the path for me to take with it. I don't know how to pack light, so I'll likely be hauling more gear than most. Even if I get into a trailer with it, there's still a good change some natural rake would be appreciated. I also just HATE squatted truck stance...
Also if you plan on doing any suspension work be sure to pick up a set of poly bushing. Energy suspension makes them and they are the best deal on rock auto. Ord also sells them with hardware and theirs are fully greasable.
 

bucket

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Quick question, I'm under the impression that a DRW Dana 60 and a SRW Dana 60 are the same except for the hub adapters (i.e. spacers), and if I were to remove those hub adapters, I'd have the same thing as a SRW unit. Is that close enough to the truth? i.e., running the humvee wheels (which I just can't get out of my mind...) needs about 3.5" increase in WMS each side, and I think the DRW axle is about right for that. But if I go back to stock type wheels, I'd want to remove the spacers and have stock width WMS. Am I wrong on that?

Nope. Newer trucks are built cheaper and have bolt-on spacers to make the DRW width. The Chevy D60 has specific hubs for a DRW application. Iirc, the rotors are different too.
 

Hunter79764

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Nope. Newer trucks are built cheaper and have bolt-on spacers to make the DRW width. The Chevy D60 has specific hubs for a DRW application. Iirc, the rotors are different too.
So to do what I'm talking about, I'd need a SRW hub, then use a spacer from a later truck? Bummer, but it makes sense.
 

bucket

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So to do what I'm talking about, I'd need a SRW hub, then use a spacer from a later truck? Bummer, but it makes sense.

To switch wheels back and forth, that's correct. I do not remember if the later style DRW adapters fit over a D60 hub though. I also don't remember if the old square Fords used the bolt-on adapters or not. They used a D60 with locking hubs.

...but thinking more, despite being the same bolt pattern, they used wheels with a larger hub bore.
 

Hunter79764

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To switch wheels back and forth, that's correct. I do not remember if the later style DRW adapters fit over a D60 hub though. I also don't remember if the old square Fords used the bolt-on adapters or not. They used a D60 with locking hubs.

...but thinking more, despite being the same bolt pattern, they used wheels with a larger hub bore.
Welp, looks like I have some digging to do. I think I've got a line on a set of SRW axles with locker and 4.56 for a reasonable (not great, but not bad) price, and I happened upon a set of D60 DRW hubs while getting some other parts and saved them from the scrap bin. I also just about decided that I'll run the Humvee wheels/tires for at least a starting point, so I need to get something nailed down (I have some spacers that I think are right for the rear axle, which is why I'm only talking about the front). Maybe It's using the DRW hubs I just got on the SRW axle until I decide that I need to run conventional rims? Eh, I'll cross that bridge when I have all the parts sitting in front of me.

Last major item now is a round pattern NP205, and I think I'm done with gathering used parts. Then it's finish house projects to clear out my workshop, then dig in to the truck this fall...
 

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