Grinding/ticking

[83kid]

Hi,
So i got this 83 k10 a couple months ago. Its got a lift and 33's and a kid had it at one point, so im assuming 4 wheels been used in the not to distant past.
I had put it in 4 when buying the truck and then back into 2 to make sure it didn't make any wierd noises, and it was fine. Needed it yesterday, so i put it in and it worked fine. Don't know if it ticked then or not, surronding noise was too loud and i wasnt paying attention. So, after i put it back into 2 i was going down the road and i could hear a constant ticking sound, like something engaged partially or something. I believe it has a 205, if not its a 208
Shifted in 4hi then N back to 2hi, and the ticking went away. Now, shifting from 2 to 4hi it makes a clunk, as i expected it to. into nuetral no clunk, but it goes in. Shifing to 4 low it grinds bad and if i pull back quickly it clunks in and jups forward a lot more when i go to drive it. Ticks in 4 hi and 4 low, and 2hi it ticks now too, havent been able to get it to stop this time around.

Is this normal for when im in 4 that itll tick? Is it normal for shifting into 4 low to be as it is? How would i get the ticking in 2hi to stop?

Thanks!

 

[highdesertrange]

we need more info. what transfer case? auto locking hubs? these two are a good start. highdesertranger

 

[83kid]

Ill check the transfer case tomorrw for what it is, i know its not a 203, from memory i believe it is a 205. And yes auto locking hubs

 

[83kid]

Still having the problem, transfer case is 205

 

[HotRodPC]

Woo Hoo, Took you a bit to get back with the info. Welcome Back.

So this is an iron case Transfer case and not the aluminum case right? What transmission does the truck have in front of the Transfer case?

Any changes to the noise in the last month as far as when it makes and does not make the noise? Getting louder or more profound? Moving around at all or still coming form the same place?

 

[89Suburban]

Does the click match the tire speed, drive line/shaft speed or engine speed? Those auto hubs are notorious for that noise but when you come to a stop you will feel it clunk and lock in. At least that's what mine did when it took a crap. Block the wheels, put it in neutral ans start checking for worn u-joints on the drive and axle shafts. Try to narrow down where the noise is coming from, roll both windows down, is it more prevalent on one side or the other? Drive next to a highway barrier, that really magnifies the noise and may help track it down.

 

[83kid]

It does match the drive/engine speed, and when you stop it will clunk and do a weird thing which does seem like its locking in, like you said.
Driveshaft ujoints are brand new, maybe 100 miles on them, probably not even. How would i check the ujoint on the axle shaft?
I'll get back to you on the rest of the stuff... havent driven it in 4 since then, just left it in 2 and havent had problems with that.

thanks!

 

[89Suburban]

It does match the drive/engine speed, and when you stop it will clunk and do a weird thing which does seem like its locking in, like you said.
Driveshaft ujoints are brand new, maybe 100 miles on them, probably not even. How would i check the ujoint on the axle shaft?
I'll get back to you on the rest of the stuff... havent driven it in 4 since then, just left it in 2 and havent had problems with that.

thanks!

My bet is on the auto hub that is hanging up on one side or the other. Invest in a set of manual locking hubs and have peace of mind. I like the steel ones from milemarker. Easy to install too. Sometimes you get lucky and find used locking hubs at Pull A Part or junkyard too.

 

[83kid]

Well, if thats the case, then ill just wait on it. No reason for 4 wheel this time of year for me, ill keep the truck away from the mud puddles till i do that. Don't have the money to fix it now, how much would it cost to buy new manual hubs, and how difficult is the removal and installation?

Thanks!

 

[MrMarty51]

Sometimes, well, most times, a vehicle with them self locking hubs needs to be backed up five, ten, twenty or fifty foot to get the hubs to disengage.
Years ago, I had a vehicle with them things, they was OK and seemed to hold quite well.
On a different note, the vehicle with them self locking hubs would sometimes have to be moved around a bit to get the hubs to fully engage tooo.
Never use grease inside them self lockers, use ATF only, at least that is what the Dodge book said.

 

[MadOgre]

Sometimes, well, most times, a vehicle with them self locking hubs needs to be backed up five, ten, twenty or fifty foot to get the hubs to disengage.
Years ago, I had a vehicle with them things, they was OK and seemed to hold quite well.
On a different note, the vehicle with them self locking hubs would sometimes have to be moved around a bit to get the hubs to fully engage tooo.
Never use grease inside them self lockers, use ATF only, at least that is what the Dodge book said.

Yep I have had that problem too with auto hubs.

 

[83kid]

The one time i used 4 wheel when i actually needed it, i was in a sand pit and had ug myself in. Once i put it in 4, i drove right along fine. So, since i had just been spinning tire in 2, the hubs must have engaged right away.

So, am i fine with using 4 for things that need it if after i put it back into 2 i back up a good distance to get the hubs to disengage? Would not mind doing that if it means i dont have to do anything to fix it.

Mrmarty, whats the difference between the hubs being fully engaged or only partially? Would the hubs still lock and spin the front tires if it wasnt fully enaged?
Thanks!

 

[83kid]

My friend, when i told him of this problem, he said i just had to replace the hub (Which i do not know exactly what it is one the truck) With one that can turn. The cylinder sticking out of the center of the wheel he says is everything that you have to remove, and he found warn manual locking hubs somewhere for like $100. He says that its all i need to replace (This is just the piece that goes on the outside, right where you turn the bar) Is this it? Do i need any other parts for an auto to manual conversion?

Thanks!

 

[firebane]

My friend, when i told him of this problem, he said i just had to replace the hub (Which i do not know exactly what it is one the truck) With one that can turn. The cylinder sticking out of the center of the wheel he says is everything that you have to remove, and he found warn manual locking hubs somewhere for like $100. He says that its all i need to replace (This is just the piece that goes on the outside, right where you turn the bar) Is this it? Do i need any other parts for an auto to manual conversion?

Thanks!

Pretty much it.

Should be 6 or so small allen bolts you undo and the hub comes straight out.

Replacement is reverse but make sure you grease them up real good.

 

[bucket]

Summertime or not, auto hubs can cause a ruckus for no reason at all.

5 screws hold the auto hub on, the manual hubs have 6 screws. Under the cover is an outer snap ring and usually (but not always) a center snap ring. Remove those and use two of the screws you removed to pull the rest of the locking hub out.