G series camper van forums

[Camar068]

Vemco V-drive. IFS built for chevy.

 

[Craig Nedrow]

I too will do a camper van when the kids are bigger.

I'm targeting the ford e series passenger van series. Think what you see at every church lol. Plan is to buy one from such a church.

Just big enough to fit a fam of 4.

I found a 2005 e450 6.8L v10 that would be perfect. Just testing the waters though as the kids are far too young at the moment.

Keep away from the V10, we had one, know others that had one, and they have troubles electronically. They are also gas hogs, like ours got 7 mpg, My daughters Exploder gets 9 mpg AND YOU DO NOT WANT TO WORK ON ONE, you be hatin' it.

 

[Craig Nedrow]

More done on the van. The trip to the coast I felt some vibration at higher speeds, so when I came home I pulled the drive line. Sure enough, the U joint in back was dry, so I replaced all three and the carrier. Got it installed today and took it for a test drive. Seems good, but our roads are so rough where I live, that it is hard to tell, so wait for final judgement when it gets on the freeway. Next up is the loose and leaky steering box...looks like a bugger to pull, may have to wait until after Bonneville. Sorry no pics.

 

[bucket]

Yeah, I kind of remember the steering box being a bit of a b!tch to remove.

 

[Ricko1966]

Yeah, I kind of remember the steering box being a bit of a b!tch to remove.

You laugh because you never tried,but glue the pump and bracket down with right stuff silicone. Coat the whole pump including where the lines meet the pump,with a thick coat of right stuff sealer. Let it dry 24 hours because it's thick then give it another coat. All the leaks will be sealed in a rubber jacket and the loose pump will be glued to the block. Ha! I said it first!!!!!

 

[bucket]

You laugh because you never tried,but glue the pump and bracket down with right stuff silicone. Coat the whole pump including where the lines meet the pump,with a thick coat of right stuff sealer. Let it dry 24 hours because it's thick then give it another coat. All the leaks will be sealed in a rubber jacket and the loose pump will be glued to the block. Ha! I said it first!!!!!

Last weekend I was getting one of my Ambulances ready to sell. I removed the siren speaker things behind the grille, discovered one was loose and had rubbed the condenser. Then I forgot about that. Later I was charging the AC and it was blowing ice cubes, then I noticed a fog in the garage.

I was thiiiissss close to smearing Right Stuff on the condenser so I could post about it, lol.

 

[Craig Nedrow]

spent the day working on damaged panels from previous owners. It was a bugger, but I used fiberglass and matt to fix the panel, and it worked good. Tomorrow we will start paneling the sides as all the work is completed now so we can do this. I will raptor line the other side tomorrow as everything will be cured.

 

[Craig Nedrow]

We are looking for a grill for this 1991 GMC G20 Rally extended van. If anyone has one , and wants to sell it, LMK. The one in the pix is not original, not even sure what an original looks like. I think the trucks are 3/4 inches wider? I think this is the correct look.

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[bucket]

We are looking for a grill for this 1991 GMC G20 Rally extended van. If anyone has one , and wants to sell it, LMK. The one in the pix is not original, not even sure what an original looks like. I think the trucks are 3/4 inches wider? I think this is the correct look.

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Truck and van grilles are essentially the same. I've installed van grilles in trucks more than a few times. The big difference is the upper screw locations. When installing a van grille in a truck, the upper screw locations need drilled. Not a big deal at all. It used to be far easier to find van grilles in nice shape than pickup grilles.

Now with that said, I've never done the opposite swap. Not that I can remember, anyway. I don't remember if truck grilles have enough meat where the van mounting screws need to go.

 

[waterpirate]

Furd v10 gasser. Drove a 1 ton over 350k. The coil packs were a constant issue and nobody ever wanted to change the 2 in the back under the firewall. Took it to a local shop around 150k and told them to change all 10. Got it back and it still stumbled. I asked them if they changed them all, and the response was yea except the 2 in the back. My response was your about to take a whoopin.
Eric

 

[squaredeal91]

Hahaha ^^^^^^

 

[Craig Nedrow]

Jan and I got some more done. Jan is cleaning the doors, and getting ready to install the last of the weather stripping on the driver and passenger doors. The soft seal products are very high quality. I have used them several other times, and every time the fit is good. We use 3M weatherstrip glue, excellent.

 

[Craig Nedrow]

We uninstalled all the previous floor stuff and Jan cleaned, I rustproofed, she painted, (Magnet satin epoxy). the Next day we laid down the heat and sound deadener, Dynamat Extreme, and rolled it on. My wrists are sore! Next we are going to install hardboard wood on the sides using the old panels as templates. Here are the poor panels I had to fix from ham ****** PO. They are sturdy with the fiberglass I did the other day, and I Raptor lined them. The one on the right I should have used body putty and etc., but is will be hidden by the bed and frame.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Keep away from the V10, we had one, know others that had one, and they have troubles electronically. They are also gas hogs, like ours got 7 mpg, My daughters Exploder gets 9 mpg AND YOU DO NOT WANT TO WORK ON ONE, you be hatin' it.

youd get access to the top and back of the engine at the expense of the front

 

[HotRodPC]

Where does a person find the good deal on these busses? I need one for 2 different projects.

My 2 good buses I got for just flat dirt azz cheap was direct from the school district auction. The other good bus I got, I bought from a guy who bought it at auction direct, was trying to make a fortune asking to much for it so it never sold. When I hit him up asking questions about it, I ended with, well nice bus you find the person, you can get that price for it, but that's out of my budget, plus you're over 2 hours away. He then asked what I'd offer, I said, I'd hate to offend you and I know it's worth your asking price, so I won't even make an offer. He was asking $5K. He then said, well I doubt you'd offend me, I bought it for $2000 and then paid $500 for 2 brand new batteries. I need it gone, I've had it to long so if you was willing to offer $2500, I'd sell it. So I went and bought it. The 2 that I stole at auction were advertized as non running buses, missing parts and lifts not working. They fuct up and why I got them cheap. What they were missing was a couple of windows and some seats. The reason they didn't run was the batteries were dead cuz they sat for 2 years with wheelchair lifts that didn't work so they didn't use them. I jumped them both and drove them home. $750ish for one that I sold for $5500 after $350 worth batteries, and $1200 for the 2010 missing 2 windows. I did end up putting batteries in it too and it also needed an alternator. But, generally $3000-$5000 is what they sell for and some of the later model ones are like $6000-$10,000 but you reallly don't want those since they have DEF. Less emissions is best, but not so old it's got the 4 speed Allison with no OD and no lock up converter unless you're staying local with it. This is the $1200 one I intend to build as an RV. Cummins 6.7 ISB with Allison 5 speed 2500 and can have 6th gear unlocked by hooking a computer to it and turning on 6th for a 2nd OD. 132,000 miles.

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