For anyone thinking of swapping to TBI.....

[HotRodPC]

I got you bro!
Dont use aftermarket stuff as far as the hardware, keep it all GM.
Walker Cal Cat part# 80107
Evap (charcoal) cannister from a TBI truck, available as replacement at rock auto.
you can get away without a pump by using emissions diagram DHD...I have a copy of that. Spoke to the ref supervisor in Sacramento last week, he said no need for the air pump with an auto trans.
You will beed a stock TBI air cleaner, can be found on EBay, or a wrecker.
smog legal headers or OEM Manifolds, with heater stove for air cleaner.
Or just transplant everything from your burb.....LOL

Heat stove is easy to do yourself to make smog legal headers out of non smog legal headers if you don't need the A I R tubes off the pump. Just get 1 1/2 piece of exhaust pipe about 2 inches long and tack weld it to the top of the #4 header pipe, then run you your thermostatic air tube off the piece of pipe to your air cleaner.

 

[Jims86]

Heat stove is easy to do yourself to make smog legal headers out of non smog legal headers if you don't need the A I R tubes off the pump. Just get 1 1/2 piece of exhaust pipe about 2 inches long and tack weld it to the top of the #4 header pipe, then run you your thermostatic air tube off the piece of pipe to your air cleaner.

Headers not smog legal unless the have the CA EO number.

 

[HotRodPC]

Headers not smog legal unless the have the CA EO number.

That's really a big crock of ****. So it takes a fuggin # to make them legal? A guy can easily make them legal but..... Fuggin Tree Huggers take some of that **** way to far.

 

[Jims86]

That's really a big crock of ****. So it takes a fuggin # to make them legal? A guy can easily make them legal but..... Fuggin Tree Huggers take some of that **** way to far.

100% agree. Thats why the **** Eddy headers are $500+, compared the the hookers with air tubes that are maybe $200 or so.
I like cast iron...no header drama for me.
I think the Manufacturers have to pay CARB 10k for "Testing and certification", so, I dont think its just the tree huggers.

 

[HotRodPC]

100% agree. Thats why the **** Eddy headers are $500+, compared the the hookers with air tubes that are maybe $200 or so.
I like cast iron...no header drama for me.
I think the Manufacturers have to pay CARB 10k for "Testing and certification", so, I dont think its just the tree huggers.

Yeah, I'm there with you on that one. Unless I'm running a performance motor, I'd do without them. But in CA, that's ridiculous. I guess the rules have changed. When I started in Smog Testing, it was brand new IIRC. I passed several vehicles that had headers. They had the Thermostatic Air Cleaner covered with the tack welded pipe, and guys even had holes drilled and nuts welded on so the air tube from the diverter valves could be installed. So long as their tailpipe emissions passed, and the visual was there, I passed them and I don't recall that being illegal at that time. These vehicles were also pre Cat too.

 

[Jims86]

Yeah, I'm there with you on that one. Unless I'm running a performance motor, I'd do without them. But in CA, that's ridiculous. I guess the rules have changed. When I started in Smog Testing, it was brand new IIRC. I passed several vehicles that had headers. They had the Thermostatic Air Cleaner covered with the tack welded pipe, and guys even had holes drilled and nuts welded on so the air tube from the diverter valves could be installed. So long as their tailpipe emissions passed, and the visual was there, I passed them and I don't recall that being illegal at that time. These vehicles were also pre Cat too.

Its allllll money. The air quality would be just fine with tailpipe testing, but if your new replacement manifold does'nt rust at the same rate as the factory one, you won't pass the visual.

 

[caliphatman8123]

So would it be easier to pull motor and trans at the same time in these K series trucks?

 

[Jims86]

So would it be easier to pull motor and trans at the same time in these K series trucks?

Yup, but you would have to unbolt the transfer case first, and taking the front wheels off helps quite a bit too, but unbolt everything underneath first.

 

[HotRodPC]

So would it be easier to pull motor and trans at the same time in these K series trucks?

Yup, but you would have to unbolt the transfer case first, and taking the front wheels off helps quite a bit too, but unbolt everything underneath first.

This is also assuming you're using a pretty good hoist, not some hunk of ****. I do like to pull them together when I can and usually do.

 

[Jims86]

This is also assuming you're using a pretty good hoist, not some hunk of ****. I do like to pull them together when I can and usually do.

Yup...I think the 700r4 is 134 pounds hanging off the back of the engine.

 

[HotRodPC]

Yup...I think the 700r4 is 134 pounds hanging off the back of the engine.

And that's compound leveraged weight too since you're hooked to the motor and not the center of the load. But that actually works in your favor, giving a good angle when coming up and out.

 

[caliphatman8123]

Cool... already unhooked exhaust and all the radiator stuff... pulled the ecm and unhooked the wiring from the truck, but left connected to the engine... I believe all I have left is to disconnect the mounts and transfer case... then do some yanking out...lol should I drain the trans before... lol not looking to make a big mess pouring it out the back pulling it out... lol

 

[Jims86]

Cool... already unhooked exhaust and all the radiator stuff... pulled the ecm and unhooked the wiring from the truck, but left connected to the engine... I believe all I have left is to disconnect the mounts and transfer case... then do some yanking out...lol should I drain the trans before... lol not looking to make a big mess pouring it out the back pulling it out... lol

yup, the minute you til it back, its gonna piss all over the place. The transfer case too.

 

[HotRodPC]

So you haven't started taking out any bellhousing bolts right??? If you have, put them ALL back in and tighten them. I know a guy who destroyed a transmission doing this. He had pulled the bottom 4 bolts, had the top 2 loose. Went back at it the next day and decided to pull them as a unit. After he got it out, and coming down with the hoist faster than he realized, the tailshaft caught the bumper, lifted the trans must enough to break the bellhousing. You know how it is trying to loosen the jack just a little. He came down a bit to fast. All would have been fine if the bellhousing bolts would have been tight.
And NO, that wasn't me. I was the guy who dropped a whole motor and trans with the motor about 6 ft in the air, and tailshaft of trans about 3 ft off the ground. Dropped it all, broke the trans and the crank in the motor. Kinda sucked balls !!! What I did was lifted the tailshaft over the core support and swung it around out of the truck. The hoist hook and the chain didn't twist so well and the chain came over the hook.

 

[caliphatman8123]

Trans is still tight... just need to drain it now... lol looks like I'm on track to have a killer weekend when the 84 gets here... lmao