Door realignment after paint, what technique did you use?

[Toad455]

I'm doing final block sanding on my 78 cab. I rebuilt the door hinges with oversize bushings and I have the door gaps exactly where I want them to stay. I used filler rod/bodywork to get the gaps better than the factory ever did on these. I really don't want to remove the doors but I need to so I can paint it the way I want to, inside the jambs, etc. I see info on how some people drill holes and use pins but has anyone on here done this before on one of these trucks? I plan on leaving the hinges bolted to the cab and drill/pin the hinge at the door. (but maybe at the cab would be better?) It was a real pain to get the gaps where they're at. I also thought about drill/tap holes and use bolts to hold in place for reinstall but I would prob drill into the nut plate which floats. Has anyone done this or something similar?

 

[mxer147]

Can you simply remove the new door hinge pins, assuming nothing done to them when rebuilt and the fender is removed.

 

[Ricko1966]

I'm doing final block sanding on my 78 cab. I rebuilt the door hinges with oversize bushings and I have the door gaps exactly where I want them to stay. I used filler rod/bodywork to get the gaps better than the factory ever did on these. I really don't want to remove the doors but I need to so I can paint it the way I want to, inside the jambs, etc. I see info on how some people drill holes and use pins but has anyone on here done this before on one of these trucks? I plan on leaving the hinges bolted to the cab and drill/pin the hinge at the door. (but maybe at the cab would be better?) It was a real pain to get the gaps where they're at. I also thought about drill/tap holes and use bolts to hold in place for reinstall but I would prob drill into the nut plate which floats. Has anyone done this or something similar?

It wouldn't matter if the nut plate floats,it needs to go back where you had it. It doesn't float once the hardware is tight. I'd drill alignment holes,depending on holes visiblity, would probably pack them with seam sealer on final assembly.

 

[Doppleganger]

I drilled 2 random holes on each hinge - reamed to 1/8". Using one inch long 1/8" dowels indicates the hinge exactly to where it was.....and press fits into place flush. Disappears when painted.

Here was a test to see how they fit.

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[CalSgt]

May I ask what advantage you expect from painting with the doors removed?

I originally wanted to do mine by removing the doors but after getting them adjusted as perfectly as possible there’s no way I’d chance taking them off to paint. The risk Vs. Reward of trying to re-mount the doors on fresh paint without damaging something is too great.

 

[Toad455]

Can you simply remove the new door hinge pins, assuming nothing done to them when rebuilt and the fender is removed.

Sorry for late reply. When I built my hinges I tack welded the end of my pins to the hings so they wouldn't spin later and enlarge the hole, they were a little loose also. I would build a new set of hinges that have removable pins but I haven't came up with a good enough idea.

 

[Toad455]

May I ask what advantage you expect from painting with the doors removed?

I originally wanted to do mine by removing the doors but after getting them adjusted as perfectly as possible there’s no way I’d chance taking them off to paint. The risk Vs. Reward of trying to re-mount the doors on fresh paint without damaging something is too great.

I feel the same way, that's why this is driving me nuts. I just don't think I can get into the jambs with a gun to cover completely. Did you paint with doors on? How did it turn out?

 

[Toad455]

I drilled 2 random holes on each hinge - reamed to 1/8". Using one inch long 1/8" dowels indicates the hinge exactly to where it was.....and press fits into place flush. Disappears when painted.

Here was a test to see how they fit.

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So you reamed to 1/8 through the hinge and cab so the pin fits tight correct? I like that idea, did you get the doors back on yet?

 

[CalSgt]

I feel the same way, that's why this is driving me nuts. I just don't think I can get into the jambs with a gun to cover completely. Did you paint with doors on? How did it turn out?

I don’t have access to all my photos but here are a few that capture the jambs. I feel they turned out great, and really, they’re almost not noticeable once the truck is assembled. Only advice would be to spend some extra time cleaning, degreasing and detailing those suckers before you paint.

I did paint the jambs with the fenders off but I would assemble/disassemble the front clip a dozen times before I tried to adjust the doors again.

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[Doppleganger]

So you reamed to 1/8 through the hinge and cab so the pin fits tight correct? I like that idea, did you get the doors back on yet?

Yes to the reaming - no to the doors back on. Am kind of in between - I want to get the cab into paint so I can start re-assembling, but the roof skin needs replaced and is scheduled around the first of the year. So even if I get the cab into paint (which includes insides of doors, jambs and hinges), I cant put it onto the chassis as it has to go get a roof skin in a few months first. What a mess.

 

[Grit dog]

Yes to the reaming - no to the doors back on. Am kind of in between - I want to get the cab into paint so I can start re-assembling, but the roof skin needs replaced and is scheduled around the first of the year. So even if I get the cab into paint (which includes insides of doors, jambs and hinges), I cant put it onto the chassis as it has to go get a roof skin in a few months first. What a mess.

With all due respect, why not just have it all painted at once.
Doesn’t make sense to paint inside of cab, mount on truck, re assemble then do major surgery that requires welding cutting drilling grinding, hammering and bondo on the same chunk of metal, over finished work.
And how do you reassemble anything until the cab is mounted on the chassi? Bed and clip and doors and interior and everything has to come after the cab is on.
Or did I mis read what you’re intending to do?

 

[Old Guy Bill]

I painted everything individually, cab, doors, hinges,...
Then put it together, align the doors with the cab, then the fenders to the door.
Use lots of tape...

 

[legopnuematic]

These trucks were originally painted with the doors assembled onto the cab.

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What I’m thinking of doing with my 79 is hit all the areas behind the hinges with some base, then assemble the hinges onto the cab and then hang doors, then with everything hung and lined up spray everything base and clear.

Or maybe I won’t, I don’t know.

 

[Doppleganger]

I am changing colors. New color is metallic - which (most shops agree) should be painted at the same time. Painting the inside of my cab, the area between the cab and bed, the firewall, and inside doors and door jambs allows me to set the cab back on the chassis and start assembling lines and electricals. Once the bed is back on, the majority of the exterior will all be in primer and ready to paint - all at once - more like a simple repaint without all the nook areas of a color change.

 

[Toad455]

I don’t have access to all my photos but here are a few that capture the jambs. I feel they turned out great, and really, they’re almost not noticeable once the truck is assembled. Only advice would be to spend some extra time cleaning, degreasing and detailing those suckers before you paint.

I did paint the jambs with the fenders off but I would assemble/disassemble the front clip a dozen times before I tried to adjust the doors again.

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Looking good!