Door realignment after paint, what technique did you use?

[Grit dog]

I am changing colors. New color is metallic - which (most shops agree) should be painted at the same time. Painting the inside of my cab, the area between the cab and bed, the firewall, and inside doors and door jambs allows me to set the cab back on the chassis and start assembling lines and electricals. Once the bed is back on, the majority of the exterior will all be in primer and ready to paint - all at once - more like a simple repaint without all the nook areas of a color change.

Ok, you’re not painting the whole cab. Just inside and jambs.
Add underside of hood, inside/underside of bed etc to the first paint job if you want to have all the exposed surfaces done in one shot after reassembling.
And I’d not put the bed on before painting. But you may have to to get it to the shop. I’m not clear what you are DIY ing and what the shop is doing.
I also don’t believe it’s that important to paint all at once for a metallic. Maybe a heavy heavy big metallic or flake or 3 stage pearl.
I’m a **** painter and would challenge anyone to tell me what parts of the blue truck weren’t painted at the same time (the metallic or the solid color).
My black truck is black metallic. Got hood, fenders and a door re-sprayed at a collision shop (note not resto, a kick em out the door big collision shop) and then I repainted the bumpers at home. You can’t tell. I can’t tell and I have a decent eye for it.
Same with a heavy color shift metallic on a truck I repainted years ago. Repainted the bed again before selling it (beat it as a work truck for a year) in an old garage that smelled like creosote. Couldn’t tell.
Paint quality and mixing is important though.
Another suggestion, assuming you’re using quality paint which is $$$$ and not $$, pickup trucks take ALOT of paint. The exterior is half or sometimes less than half of the total surface area.
Single or 2 stage it can save a $ to use a shop line base on all the hidden stuff like firewall, under hood , behind cab in bed etc for the first couple coats then top with the good stuff.
Just a suggestion.
It would have taken over a gallon of primary color base even being 2 tone, to do it all and I didn’t touch inside or underside of cab, firewall or underside of bed.
By doing what I suggested above (little different scenario for me), I used not quite 3 qts of primary base.

 

[Doppleganger]

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Its a 2015-18 GM blue metallic. There are 5 shades with the same code (wtf?) and this one is the darkest - almost black until its in the sun. I got almost 2 gallons of it in base - inside of bed is getting something like rino-liner so no paint there. Only thing the shop is doing is the roof skin, but I might talk to him about putting the cab areas into color as well - it wont be done til Jan-Feb, and my garage isn't heated. If I can get the cab sitting on my frame again - even in the dead of winter - '25 wont be as much as a loss for time.

There is a 3 tone paint scheme I would kill for but its out of my paygrade (ability and money) to do.

 

[Grit dog]

Nice color! Loved the old (and new) Chrysler Patriot Blue. Similar.
No inside bed, + inside/under cab + firewall, + inside fenders and everywhere else, under bed, etc that is required for a quality color change.
Yes you will use over a gal of base. I’d estimate 5-6 quarts (10-12 sprayable).

 

[Doppleganger]

Have 1-1/2 gallons of a satin black sealer that it will get before color. Help the coverage a bit better than over the light gray.

 

[CalSgt]

Nice color! Loved the old (and new) Chrysler Patriot Blue. Similar.
No inside bed, + inside/under cab + firewall, + inside fenders and everywhere else, under bed, etc that is required for a quality color change.
Yes you will use over a gal of base. I’d estimate 5-6 quarts (10-12 sprayable).

I originally bought 1 & 1/2 gallons of base white for my truck, all of the “under” areas got 2 very light coats and I was out-OUT at the end of the project. If I wasn’t so scared to run out and being real conservative with my coverage I probably would have ended up squirting at least another quart of paint on the job.

I had to get another quart mixed to redo the hood since I screwed it up so bad but at least now I have some for repairs.

 

[Grit dog]

Have 1-1/2 gallons of a satin black sealer that it will get before color. Help the coverage a bit better than over the light gray.

That’s a lot of sealer. But whatever. You’re buying your own materials for the body shop? Must be a buddy?
Shops don’t usually let you diy half the job and bring byop. (Bring your own paint).
Thats like buying an Vato Zone part for the mechanic, or any part really, and expecting him to warranty the install if it craps out.
What are you using?