Door mirror hole fix

[84GMCSierra]

Are these holes fixable by welding or is the door metal too thin? Truck originally had those huge tow mirrors on it, but someone in its past life ripped the bolts out of the top of the door. The plastic nuts are still in the rest of the holes so would have to pull those I'd the holes can be fixed. Also want the antenna hole plugged too if possible.
Thanks for any info

 

[Ricko1966]

You can weld that or braze it. If you are asking, that makes me think you aren't familiar with welding and might be time for you to learn to braze.

 

[NLD79K10]

Looks relatively easily weldable to me, just don't overdo it on amperage and try to limit warping by not welding in the new section in one continuous weld. You may want to try out with some sheet metal of equal thickness before going all in.

 

[TowMater]

Assuming you know how to weld it's no problem. You'll have to hog out the holes a bit so the metal is flat, looks like it's pulled out a bit. Cut a little patch and use a small magnet to hold it in place, do a couple tacks, cool with air if you have a compressor and slowly close the tacks.
I will be doing the same thing shortly, hate those massive arms bolted to the door, looks awful and always damages the door skin.

 

[84GMCSierra]

Thanks guys. As far as welding, no I don't know how. Never really needed to know. I leave it for the pros.

 

[Ricko1966]

Thanks guys. As far as welding, no I don't know how. Never really needed to know. I leave it for the pros.

This was my first torch setup, actually mine was bernzomatic!but looks identical. Swap the propane cylinder to a mapp cylinder and it's suitable for brazing. Brazing is much easier to learn for a beginner on body panels.Less heat and easier flow, more like soldering, but also done factory at one point so defiantly a responsible method. Also though,some people instinctively can do these kind of things, some cannot. But if < $100.00 for a learning expierience is in your budget and skill set, here you go. Also if you end up needing a torch in the future for heating or cutting something., you'll have one. And yes you can use them for cutting.https://www.ebay.com/itm/358553784755?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=358553784755&targetid=2450249296795&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=9023841&poi=&campaignid=24181853928&mkgroupid=204814195412&rlsatarget=pla-2450249296795&abcId=10813847&merchantid=6296724&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=24181853928&gclid=CjwKCAjw_pzWBhAkEiwAwDCi1bS2qBsLh8TgCWYg-NeDT6p3t_z3CIYEdUYotSxJWUquh0gS5nsT2hoCwCYQAvD_BwE

 

[84GMCSierra]

Thanks Ricko 1966. I'll start with that

 

[CalSgt]

Assuming you know how to weld it's no problem. You'll have to hog out the holes a bit so the metal is flat, looks like it's pulled out a bit. Cut a little patch and use a small magnet to hold it in place, do a couple tacks, cool with air if you have a compressor and slowly close the tacks.
I will be doing the same thing shortly, hate those massive arms bolted to the door, looks awful and always damages the door skin.

^^^ Basically this

Body work the panel to the correct shape first
Cut the hole slightly larger to remove the jagged edges
Cut a repair piece from a donor piece of steel
Adjust (file, grind, bend and shape) your patch panel until it fits perfect and matches the profile of the body
Weld it up or have it welded up

Note:
As the piece gets tacked in plan to adjust it before each tack to get the patch as flush with the body panel as possible
Your small patch will be pretty much locked in place after 2 or 3 tacks
You can push/pull from the backside, if it's in a spot that has no access to the backside, thin screwdrivers, picks or pocketknives can be used to pry the patch panel where it needs to be.
Never use overlap joints for patching body panels, they're near impossible to do any shaping or bodywork on
Paint, rust or anything besides bare clean steel can make welding a real PIA
Remove the paint back 1/4" or more from the edges of your hole and patch panel
Clean the backside of the sheet metal at least 1/4" also

Here's an example of the tacking in a patch on my hood, between each of these tacks I had to either pry up or tap down my patch so it was flush. Once I got to this point the patch was locked in place and could not get out of adjustment, I just skipped around the perimeter tacking and letting it cool until fully welded.

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Here is after grinding, filing and a little body work but before body filler.

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[idahovette]

Nice Casey....... @CalSgt