Do I need a block heater?
- Thread starter Ethan Keuning
- Start date
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. Beating a dead horse!
WesN
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The group that released that song is from Medicine Hat Alberta which is 325 miles south from where I’m located.
Ethan Keuning
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Sorry everyone! Ive been busy with school starting back up. Thanks so much for all the replies! Yall have been really helpful
82sbshortbed
Why like that?
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Memaloose
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The circulating 1500 watt heater is the Cadillac but if the engine is out, install a block heater on both sides if they'll clear. Just use one at a time, if one goes out, you still have the other. I lived in AK for 24 winters, I'm speaking from experience. It can't hurt to install a battery blanket either. If you have an automatic, get a pad heater for the tranny pan and while you're at it, a pad heater for the engine oil pan too. Don't plug in overnight either, get a timer or plug in a couple hours before you need to start it, saves electricity.
K10farmtruck
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I drove a worn out farm find 77 k10 with a tired 400 during the winter of 2017. I believe the average jan temp for sw ND was 11f with lows of -35f. Never plugged it in, Never once failed to start but She had to idle 15 minutes before it was able to drive without sputtering under acceleration. Man i was an idiot. Get a block heater
Salty Crusty
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This was posted on another site, looks like a great idea
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/KAT...i2bznItzSQ6Q-zGDxEGyndFz67b1UxRoC5T8QAvD_BwE&
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/KAT...i2bznItzSQ6Q-zGDxEGyndFz67b1UxRoC5T8QAvD_BwE&
Dejure
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- Kelly
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- C15
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- 350
My 57 step side had a manual choke. I added the capacative discharge system NAPA sold back in the 70s so it dropped the point amperage down from around 7 amps to about 2/10's of an amp (200 milliamps) across the points, among other things.
The lower amperage meant the points stayed like new for so long the rider block, which rubbed against the distributor cam, wore off, instead of the points having to be replaced because they were fried.
I lived in Eastern Washington. A place called Brewster. My pappy lived in Twisp (just east of Winthrop, for those who know the area). It's in at the foot of the Cascade Mountains and 20 below, or colder, is not uncommon.
When I was in that cold, all I had to do was hit the throttle once or twice, pull the choke, and the pickup roared to life every time. Over at his garage, my dad's new car and truck objected more and, sometimes, took several times as long as mine to start.
The warm block would have been nice, if only because there would be less wear and tear on the engine. But a warm block is nice for getting warm going quicker.
Still, that old 57 did me fine, right up until I down graded to a 69.
SIDE NOTE: The 69 got the ignition treatment too, and the choke swap for the reasons stated.
Sold and installed a few block heaters back in the days. Simply put, there is a reason the big diesels have them.
One year, we had to throw a propane weed burner in a 55 gallon drum with the top partially cut, to act like a heater under our big John Deere. Only until that and throwing a tarp over the tractor were we able to get it started. And it was only around zero. Fortunately, the neighbor's pivot controls (440 VAC) were near and he let us tie into it to heat the fuel and block. We had no problems after that.
Interestingly, we note shielding our rigs from hot or cold (garage) pays. The SUV is pumping cool air in the summer heat before we get to the end of the block. In the winter, warm ups are nearly as good.
The lower amperage meant the points stayed like new for so long the rider block, which rubbed against the distributor cam, wore off, instead of the points having to be replaced because they were fried.
I lived in Eastern Washington. A place called Brewster. My pappy lived in Twisp (just east of Winthrop, for those who know the area). It's in at the foot of the Cascade Mountains and 20 below, or colder, is not uncommon.
When I was in that cold, all I had to do was hit the throttle once or twice, pull the choke, and the pickup roared to life every time. Over at his garage, my dad's new car and truck objected more and, sometimes, took several times as long as mine to start.
The warm block would have been nice, if only because there would be less wear and tear on the engine. But a warm block is nice for getting warm going quicker.
Still, that old 57 did me fine, right up until I down graded to a 69.
SIDE NOTE: The 69 got the ignition treatment too, and the choke swap for the reasons stated.
Sold and installed a few block heaters back in the days. Simply put, there is a reason the big diesels have them.
One year, we had to throw a propane weed burner in a 55 gallon drum with the top partially cut, to act like a heater under our big John Deere. Only until that and throwing a tarp over the tractor were we able to get it started. And it was only around zero. Fortunately, the neighbor's pivot controls (440 VAC) were near and he let us tie into it to heat the fuel and block. We had no problems after that.
Interestingly, we note shielding our rigs from hot or cold (garage) pays. The SUV is pumping cool air in the summer heat before we get to the end of the block. In the winter, warm ups are nearly as good.
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