Crankshaft Kit

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

GOBR

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 24, 2012
Posts
327
Reaction score
2
Location
Memphis
First Name
David
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
R10
Engine Size
355
If the crank journals arent real shiny (lookin like a mirror) Ill do the crank kit. Im pretty sure this motor has never been torn down before so it should be stock crank. Im debating on doing pistons also......... I might as well right? I mean a set of pistons come with the rings and I have the press to fit the wrist pins. Hopefully I can get by without having to get a crank. I figure the pistons have to come out so I might as well get new ones and hone the bores. Im thinkin of upping the comp a lil bit also. Maybe 9.5:1? Any suggestions?
 

HotRodPC

Administrator
Staff member
Admin
Joined
Aug 29, 2010
Posts
47,050
Reaction score
9,093
Location
OKC, OK
First Name
HotRod
Truck Year
85 K20 LWB
Truck Model
Silverado
Engine Size
454 - Turbo 400 - 3.73
If you're just going to hone the cylinders, I wouldn't waste the money on new pistons. Also on a re ring, don't go for something like plasma or moly rings. They'll be way to hard to get seated in just a honed motor, and with a worn bore, won't scrub the cylinders hard enough to find a home. I'd just go for a standard cast rering and bearing job unless you intened to do bore the block and replace the pistons, then I'd go for all the little extras to make the motor last longer and tolerate some abuse. Maybe just a re ring job with new oil pump and timing chain set, lap the valves and replace the valve seals and call it a re rung motor. If it's not out of tolerance, should be good for 50-75,000 miles.
 

crazy4offroad

Equal Opportunity Destroyer
Joined
Jul 30, 2010
Posts
8,468
Reaction score
1,070
Location
West BY-GOD Virginia
First Name
Curt
Truck Year
1979
Truck Model
K-10
Engine Size
350/SM465/NP205
This might help as far as judging the crank...
Unacceptible on left, acceptible on right
attachment.php

You can see where the rod "slapped" the crank in the bottom portion of the left journal, distorting its roundness. As far as the right one if everything mics OK and you can get 0.002" clearance that's all you need.
 

Attachments

  • crank1_l.jpg
    crank1_l.jpg
    66.9 KB · Views: 93

GOBR

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 24, 2012
Posts
327
Reaction score
2
Location
Memphis
First Name
David
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
R10
Engine Size
355
Ill prolly just get a crank and some new rings and a oil pump. Just to get it goin where i dont have to worry bout it. In the mean time Ill start pickin up bits and peices for another build. Might even go find a BBC block somewhere :birgits_tiredcoffee
 

HotRodPC

Administrator
Staff member
Admin
Joined
Aug 29, 2010
Posts
47,050
Reaction score
9,093
Location
OKC, OK
First Name
HotRod
Truck Year
85 K20 LWB
Truck Model
Silverado
Engine Size
454 - Turbo 400 - 3.73
This might help as far as judging the crank...
Unacceptible on left, acceptible on right
attachment.php

You can see where the rod "slapped" the crank in the bottom portion of the left journal, distorting its roundness. As far as the right one if everything mics OK and you can get 0.002" clearance that's all you need.

That crank is beyond just polishing. Likely to clean up at .010/.010 though. :waytogo: Hopefully his won't look like that though. Sounds like he might have caught it in time to save the crank and just go with new bearings and oil pump.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
42,625
Posts
919,385
Members
34,156
Latest member
Chype1
Top