Crankshaft Kit

[GOBR]

Well I got the other motor put in. I wish I woulda known it had a small knock before hand.......... Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

Its got a blown head gasket and I guess the guy drove the other truck with water in the oil and it messed up some bearings. Its got good oil pressure but when it warms up it drops real low. Like at idle between 3-5 psi. I havent changed the oil yet. Im puttin on the head gaskets tomorrow and then Ill change the oil. Ive got some 10w30.

After the oil change do you think it will be ok for a little while if I keep the rpm's low?

Also I have a 2wd and was wondering if its possible to change the crank out without pulling the engine. Im bout tired of messin with this thing and sell it............

 

[HotRodPC]

Well I got the other motor put in. I wish I woulda known it had a small knock before hand.......... Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

Its got a blown head gasket and I guess the guy drove the other truck with water in the oil and it messed up some bearings. Its got good oil pressure but when it warms up it drops real low. Like at idle between 3-5 psi. I havent changed the oil yet. Im puttin on the head gaskets tomorrow and then Ill change the oil. Ive got some 10w30.

After the oil change do you think it will be ok for a little while if I keep the rpm's low?

Also I have a 2wd and was wondering if its possible to change the crank out without pulling the engine. Im bout tired of messin with this thing and sell it............

If it's got a slight rod knock already, and oil pressure is that low, it's short lived. How long it lives depends some on you, but no telling for sure. I damn sure woudln't be using 10w-30 in it though. I'd go with SAE 40 weight, or at least 20w-50. Gonna need thicker high mileage oil that won't get thinned out as much when it warms up.

 

[Swims350]

agreed, if it has no rod knock then it may be ok for awhile.

As for crank change in truck, probably could be done, HUGE pain IMO, since you'd have to remove all the rod caps and such, and try to get back in and torque them down etc.

Plus for me I'd go that far it'd have new rings, gaskets, oil pump, timing set etc. Then if I were doing it I'd pull it out and do it.

 

[hirschdalechevy]

agreed, if it has no rod knock then it may be ok for awhile.

As for crank change in truck, probably could be done, HUGE pain IMO, since you'd have to remove all the rod caps and such, and try to get back in and torque them down etc.

Plus for me I'd go that far it'd have new rings, gaskets, oil pump, timing set etc. Then if I were doing it I'd pull it out and do it.

Agree ^^^^^^^^^^^^^ smallbock's in trucks are simple to pull anyway and if you are going as far as a crank , freshen things up a bit at the same time.
I had a rod let loose in a sb 400 back in the day and I threw a crank kit timing chain , rings (with a hone job) , oil pump , valve seal's , valve lap job and a low dollar wolverine blue racer rv cam in it for dirt cheap and it ran hard for year's with that back yard rebuild.

 

[HotRodPC]

He mentioned he wished he KNEW IT HAD A SMALL KNOCK before hand. And the low oil pressure after warm up coincides with worn or damaged bearings. Granted, he can still get some more miles out it, but it's gonna take some heavier oil. And no guarentee to how long. You might get another 20K out of it, you might only get 2K.

 

[GOBR]

Im inside the engine right now. When I pulled the dizzy it looked like vanilla milkshake, but there was no sign of water when I checked the dipstick or pulled off oil cap. The insides of the valve covers are milky, theres gunk all stuck to the heads around the pushrods. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

Well I guess Im gonna go ahead and slap these head gaskets on and drive it like grandpa. Ill be using it to cut grass thank god I dont have any yards across town lol. In a couple of weeks Ill prolly just go to the pull a part and snatch a shortblock out of somethin for $100.

Anybody ever used one of those Summit Racing rebuild kits? Comes with gasket kit, pistons, rings, and bearings?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-SBCKIT1-000/

Depending on money I might just do a re-ring kit without the pistons. My money is very low right now but the truck is a must on certain jobs. We've been having to use a toyota camry but you cant exactly load mulch into the trunk of one of them lol

 

[Swims350]

kinda steep in price.

last stuff I bought and looked up was as follows...

autozone or advance crank kit, comes with bearings, $150-200 depending on year and store.

oil pump $15-20 from summit. melling pump under summit name
timing set $15-20 summit brand.
rings $20-50 and up a set from summit.
gaskets for a 2 piece rms setup were like $40 for a complete set of fel-pro's and now summit has some in their name for cheaper.

You can rent a honer at the local parts store for like $10-20 and do it all yourself.

Same for a ring compressor, around $10 to rent and you get all of it back when you return it to them.

 

[GOBR]

kinda steep in price.

last stuff I bought and looked up was as follows...

autozone or advance crank kit, comes with bearings, $150-200 depending on year and store.

oil pump $15-20 from summit. melling pump under summit name
timing set $15-20 summit brand.
rings $20-50 and up a set from summit.
gaskets for a 2 piece rms setup were like $40 for a complete set of fel-pro's and now summit has some in their name for cheaper.

You can rent a honer at the local parts store for like $10-20 and do it all yourself.

Same for a ring compressor, around $10 to rent and you get all of it back when you return it to them.

Sounds a lil better. Depending on how the cylinder walls look I might just re-ring it and put new bearings in it along with an oil pump, timing set, and my XE274.

Im wanting to rebuild this trans too. Its a TH350C (lockup) but the lockup isnt plugged up.

 

[Swims350]

trans rebuild kits aint bad either, ebay has tons and so does summit or northern.

I would suggest a good shift kit for it, and you may want a stall converter to match the cam specs.

 

[GOBR]

Yeah I got a ACC Performance 2200-2400 stall but the bolts stripped out of it....... Tow truck guy drug it up on the flatbed. Ill re-tap em and use that. It ran good with the last engine. I had a crate 350 with port matched heads and a 5 angle valve job, XE274, performer EPS intake, longtubes, and that stall. I think its got 2.70's or somethin like that in the rear tho but once it got movin it ran pretty good on the interstate. Plenty of go to pass. Nothin like the fox body I had tho. It had gt40 heads, tfs1 cam, vic jr intake, holley dp, longtubes, MSD everything, LOTS of weight reduction, 3.73's, e-fans. Stick it in 2nd and punch it at 40-45 mph and blow the tires off.

With the lockup TH350 can I use a non lockup convertor if the lockup isnt plugged in?

 

[crazy4offroad]

With the lockup TH350 can I use a non lockup convertor if the lockup isnt plugged in?

Nope they're made different on the snout and spline count.

 

[Swims350]

exactly they won't interchange unless you change the shafts.

so you're gonna need a stall 350c or just find another shaft and change it while you have it apart.

 

[crazy4offroad]

exactly they won't interchange unless you change the shafts and the pump.

so you're gonna need a stall 350c or just find another shaft and pump and change it while you have it apart.

Fixed.

 

[Swims350]

oh yea forgot about that.

valve body too right?

 

[crazy4offroad]

Yup.