Courtesy light, cigarette sockets

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Subourbon

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True. A new fuse block would be an option.
Electrical i find it daunting. It's just, in my opinion, the toughest trouble shootings out there.
 

hey mister

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Well... this explains a lot. Lol ummm guess I'll be ordering two of these. This is driver side. Passenger has one but I think it's rusted more innthe 3 mins since I last looked at em...
Is that the door switch?
As in: door opens, light comes on?
If so, be prepared....
I ordered a set for my 78 and the threads were not correct for my year and model.
Fortunately I was able to make threaded adaptors.
I posted the project in here somewhere.
 

Subourbon

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Is that the door switch?
As in: door opens, light comes on?
If so, be prepared....
I ordered a set for my 78 and the threads were not correct for my year and model.
Fortunately I was able to make threaded adaptors.
I posted the project in here somewhere.
Yessir. Driver side is all tape.
Passenger side... last time it was touched i was probably in diapers lol.
My napa seems to have em, so I'll hold onto the receipt in case i need to swap it out.
I spent the day tryna get gauges to work.
Man these printed circuits are garbage. I got a brand new one from China and most things seem to work... but so touchy. Inthink oil pressure gauge works but I just don't trust em.

Voltage was a bit optimistic, reading 17, 16 v but battery was at 13.8 when running. I cleaned some grounds in engine compartment and it seems to have helped.

Fuel gauge, ive just given up, it's way past full at 3 o clock. If it's the sender, i dont feel like dropping the tank I'll just take note of my odometer. Been doing it since I bought the truck no biggie.


I want those dakota digital clusters they're apparently pretty plug n play. But boy they aren't cheap. Might be Xmas gift. Well see.
 

hey mister

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Yessir. Driver side is all tape.
Passenger side... last time it was touched i was probably in diapers lol.
My napa seems to have em, so I'll hold onto the receipt in case i need to swap it out.
I spent the day tryna get gauges to work.
Man these printed circuits are garbage. I got a brand new one from China and most things seem to work... but so touchy. Inthink oil pressure gauge works but I just don't trust em.

Voltage was a bit optimistic, reading 17, 16 v but battery was at 13.8 when running. I cleaned some grounds in engine compartment and it seems to have helped.

Fuel gauge, ive just given up, it's way past full at 3 o clock. If it's the sender, i dont feel like dropping the tank I'll just take note of my odometer. Been doing it since I bought the truck no biggie.


I want those dakota digital clusters they're apparently pretty plug n play. But boy they aren't cheap. Might be Xmas gift. Well see.
You mentioned ground strap...and it recalled my recent experience.
So I just replaced all the seals and gaskets in the engine.
The ground strap from firewall to engine was original copper. It was still intact but fraile.
When completed I did not replace the strap because there were other ground connections and I didn't have eyelets big enuf for the 5/16 block bolt.
A few weeks later, I came across a suitable eyelet. Made a replacement strap and installed it back in original location.
I immediately noticed brighter cab lights and better dash behavior.
Don't ask me why, but everything in the cab worked better.
I'm glad I replaced the ground strap.
 

Subourbon

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You mentioned ground strap...and it recalled my recent experience.
So I just replaced all the seals and gaskets in the engine.
The ground strap from firewall to engine was original copper. It was still intact but fraile.
When completed I did not replace the strap because there were other ground connections and I didn't have eyelets big enuf for the 5/16 block bolt.
A few weeks later, I came across a suitable eyelet. Made a replacement strap and installed it back in original location.
I immediately noticed brighter cab lights and better dash behavior.
Don't ask me why, but everything in the cab worked better.
I'm glad I replaced the ground strap.
Yeah yeah I know the one, i recently installed these valve cover brackets (pic attached) on my 6.2 the valve covers were just a colander.
Any 6.2 owners there, I did, permatex - cork gasket - permatex - valve cover - brakcet.
Let it cure. Dry. No more leaks. The brackets are lil pricy but worth it. Also applies to 6.5 turbo diesels.

But yeah i remember removing the ground you're talking about.
Coz i removed it for that job. But I'll take it off and clean it up again. Cleaning and tightening grounds is easy and the results are often really noticeable for the amount of work you gotta do.

Good call!
 

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Subourbon

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Rant time:

How in the hell do y'all get your gauges to work.
Fuel gauge. Whatever it's probably the sender, I just watch my odometer. I don't care that much.

Voltage meter: key on it reads normal. But with engine running, it read line 16 or 17v. I checked with the battery and multimeter. Its not true. AVR in the alternator is not even a year old.

Water tenp: just doesn't move. Great.

Oil pressure, didnt move either, id really like for it to work since ive got almost all the parts I need now to add a turdbo from a 6.5 diesel.

Speedo: did work but nownjist bounces around a lot. And the truck thinks it's a Ferrari.

I switched the gauge lights to LEDs. They work. Except for right turn signal. Not even an attempt to work.

How do you guys do it man. Frustrating as all hell.

I bought a chinesium printed circuit from Amazon. I'm wondering if I should just go back to the slightly rougher looking one i bought off of a dude on marketplace.

Anyways. Grrrrr. Really annoying. Tomorrow I'll head to napa and get some door jam switches tomorrow when it opens. I just wanted to vent these stupid gauges
 

YakkoWarner

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Yep, I've got that ground in my sight, it's a ce tral bolt with 6 or 8, I forget now, but basically male ends for a female spade connector. So I'll crimp on fresh connectors and typically run them there.

Cigarette lighter ive got it figured out luckily.
That that painless harness thing could be in the future for me.
Theres so many things I mean intraced a lot of it so I figured out a lot of itnjust by tracing lines. But if yall saw this thing it's like wtf happened. The radio man. I dont think Tony stark and Jarvis could unFugg this thing.

Sounds like the same people who installed mine: Transgressions uncovered so far:

1 - Main power and memory retention power coming through a chunk of telephone handset cord with the ends cut off and just twisted to the chopped off ends of the factory wiring harness.

2 - All factory connectors for radio and speaker chopped, speaker wires just twisted together and not all of them even had the correct polarity.

3 - Speakers holes cut into the front doors seemingly with a dull axe.

4 - Tweeters mounted into the holes in the dash were the speakers should have been with what might be the metal strip with holes in it you'd use for hanging pipes under the house.

5 - Actual dash pad chopped away over the crudely mounted tweeters (probably to get them in there without properly removing the dash pad).

6 - One of those tweeters isn't even working.

7 - Extra rear speaker holes crudely chopped into the factory Suburban rear A/C housing, speakers missing but wires hanging out.

8 - Somewhere between the radio and rear speakers there is a cut off that goes to a switch panel that allows the rear speakers to be selected or the in-dash stereo or a long-gone television unit that would have been in the center console for rear seat passengers. One of those wires is broken and since theres no documentation on where those would be I just had to run a temporary wire under the carpet for now.


I've solved some of these (mostly the under-dash stuff with properly done solder and shrink wrap in place of the twist-n-hope connections, using real automotive grade wire instead of old telephone wire. Also made plastic covers for the chopped up rear A/C holes). I can't unchop the holes in the front doors but fortunately the plastic panels hide the horrible rough edges in the metal and I eneded up putting speakers back in there so they'd cover the holes in the plastic panels.
 

Sad Sack

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I need tonfind this convenience center.

I envy the guys that have clear n clean fuse blocks coz mine is a mess.
When I tore the cluster out, I heard a fuse pop. And when I checked em all I was ok. And there's these plugs just stuck in the fuse block. Honestly whenever I try to organize the wires a bit, like the cigarette lighter, I toss in an inline fuse holder jist coz I don't know if it's one of those sketchy plugs.
Always disconnect the battery before doing electrical stuff.
 

hey mister

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Sounds like the same people who installed mine: Transgressions uncovered so far:

1 - Main power and memory retention power coming through a chunk of telephone handset cord with the ends cut off and just twisted to the chopped off ends of the factory wiring harness.

2 - All factory connectors for radio and speaker chopped, speaker wires just twisted together and not all of them even had the correct polarity.

3 - Speakers holes cut into the front doors seemingly with a dull axe.

4 - Tweeters mounted into the holes in the dash were the speakers should have been with what might be the metal strip with holes in it you'd use for hanging pipes under the house.

5 - Actual dash pad chopped away over the crudely mounted tweeters (probably to get them in there without properly removing the dash pad).

6 - One of those tweeters isn't even working.

7 - Extra rear speaker holes crudely chopped into the factory Suburban rear A/C housing, speakers missing but wires hanging out.

8 - Somewhere between the radio and rear speakers there is a cut off that goes to a switch panel that allows the rear speakers to be selected or the in-dash stereo or a long-gone television unit that would have been in the center console for rear seat passengers. One of those wires is broken and since theres no documentation on where those would be I just had to run a temporary wire under the carpet for now.


I've solved some of these (mostly the under-dash stuff with properly done solder and shrink wrap in place of the twist-n-hope connections, using real automotive grade wire instead of old telephone wire. Also made plastic covers for the chopped up rear A/C holes). I can't unchop the holes in the front doors but fortunately the plastic panels hide the horrible rough edges in the metal and I eneded up putting speakers back in there so they'd cover the holes in the plastic panels.
Dude...tie a rope around that harness and yank it all out with a dozer.
Start from scratch.
You will be money ahead just in Tylenol alone.
 

YakkoWarner

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Dude...tie a rope around that harness and yank it all out with a dozer.
Start from scratch.
You will be money ahead just in Tylenol alone.

Sadly you are not wrong. I've gotten most of the wiring part ironed out at this point but yes there some serious headaches and many exclaimations of "what the ---- is this" in the process....
 

Ricko1966

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When I have a really messed up harness I remove it, stretch it out on a piece of plywood,then I graft in any pieces in that I need to,repair broken or exposed wires replace repair any sections or pigtails as needed and reinstall. Very simple Very easy. I've repaired harnesses that have been in engine fires,more than once. Once it's all laid out and exposed it's really NBD.
 

Subourbon

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Sounds like the same people who installed mine: Transgressions uncovered so far:

1 - Main power and memory retention power coming through a chunk of telephone handset cord with the ends cut off and just twisted to the chopped off ends of the factory wiring harness.

2 - All factory connectors for radio and speaker chopped, speaker wires just twisted together and not all of them even had the correct polarity.

3 - Speakers holes cut into the front doors seemingly with a dull axe.

4 - Tweeters mounted into the holes in the dash were the speakers should have been with what might be the metal strip with holes in it you'd use for hanging pipes under the house.

5 - Actual dash pad chopped away over the crudely mounted tweeters (probably to get them in there without properly removing the dash pad).

6 - One of those tweeters isn't even working.

7 - Extra rear speaker holes crudely chopped into the factory Suburban rear A/C housing, speakers missing but wires hanging out.

8 - Somewhere between the radio and rear speakers there is a cut off that goes to a switch panel that allows the rear speakers to be selected or the in-dash stereo or a long-gone television unit that would have been in the center console for rear seat passengers. One of those wires is broken and since theres no documentation on where those would be I just had to run a temporary wire under the carpet for now.


I've solved some of these (mostly the under-dash stuff with properly done solder and shrink wrap in place of the twist-n-hope connections, using real automotive grade wire instead of old telephone wire. Also made plastic covers for the chopped up rear A/C holes). I can't unchop the holes in the front doors but fortunately the plastic panels hide the horrible rough edges in the metal and I eneded up putting speakers back in there so they'd cover the holes in the plastic panels.
Holy....yeah that radio alone is a project...
See, the electrical I know, I do it right. Coz man, trying to trace n figure out stuff after the fact is th stuff if nightmares...
I dunno what these self stripping self connecting chummies are called but I've got about 20 under the dash. This cluster is my radio. With 1 speaker.
 

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Subourbon

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Sadly you are not wrong. I've gotten most of the wiring part ironed out at this point but yes there some serious headaches and many exclaimations of "what the ---- is this" in the process....
What the F is this is in the steps.

Step 5 i think.
1. Identify component.
2. Check fuse.
3. Check/clean ground
4. Inspect wiring
5. Wtf is this

Step 5 substituteable with
Geeesus chr!st!
Hahaha
 

YakkoWarner

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It seems like not just our our trucks, but almost any older vehicle has a great deal of electrical "reimagination" around the radio wiring. I found equally disasterous wiring in my 1970's British car where the radio would have been as well. A lot of people just want to get it working by any means. I was guilty of the same thing decades ago, the wiring wiring behind the radio in my old Jeep is pretty rough which I wouldn't be proud of today, but at the time (and even more broke than now) it was all I could do.
 

Subourbon

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It seems like not just our our trucks, but almost any older vehicle has a great deal of electrical "reimagination" around the radio wiring. I found equally disasterous wiring in my 1970's British car where the radio would have been as well. A lot of people just want to get it working by any means. I was guilty of the same thing decades ago, the wiring wiring behind the radio in my old Jeep is pretty rough which I wouldn't be proud of today, but at the time (and even more broke than now) it was all I could do.

Yeah we're all a lil guilty of that to some extent I guess.
I've spent so much time and effort and I have about 3 different oil pressure sending units jist from trying them out.
I tested the gauge. It works. So I thought it was sender. Now, I've got a new circuit board. And it's the first time it isn't pinned at max pressure or a min pressure. But it doesn't move either...
Like I jist don't trust them.

And the radio well, I dunno how much effort will go into this, if my Bluetooth speaker and mp3 player works, well... bye bye radio lol.
 

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