Chuck’s engine build thread!

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ChuckN

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Chad
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1981
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C10
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350
Coming along- took the tape off this morning, did some detailing and cleaning. Then I chased all the threads.
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legend57

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Did the machine shop remove the threaded plugs in the back of the block near the cam journal before hot tanking? If not, it may be worthwhile to check to make sure there isn't sludge build up inside. Easiest to check now. I've heard not all shops remove them when cleaning.

Overall, looking really good.
 

ChuckN

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Did the machine shop remove the threaded plugs in the back of the block near the cam journal before hot tanking? If not, it may be worthwhile to check to make sure there isn't sludge build up inside. Easiest to check now. I've heard not all shops remove them when cleaning.

Overall, looking really good.
Yep, it was all taken apart. All new plugs throughout. He was going to just put new press in plugs in the front, but I told him that I wanted some additional oiling for the timing set Torrington bearing, so he put tapped plugs in the front without asking( the center front plug has an oil hole).So far I can’t find a spot he missed- it went through the wash once after honing/boring when all the plugs were out, once after the align hone and again before I brought it home.
 

ChuckN

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Started with some vacuuming and some compressed air and made sure I was starting clean again.

Slid in the camshaft, then put the upper main bearings in, cleaned all the caps and installed them and the rear main seal. Dropped in the crank and torqued down the ARP bolts to spec. Crank spins so smoothly, glad I got that align hone done. Taking a bit of a break now.
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ChuckN

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Assembled the rods and pistons today. The spring clip style locks are pretty easy to use.
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ChuckN

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Got a piston in and then started experimenting with the degree wheel and TDC stop. Pretty easy to use. Awaiting a timing sprocket install tool for the crank. It acted like it was going to slide on without difficulty, and it suckered me into trying to get it on further, no luck. It’s cool, it’ll go.

The tapered ring compressor from Summit is tricky to get all of the rings started, that’s for sure.
 

ChuckN

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Last night, checked the cam degree after getting the crank sprocket on (that tool is a gem!)

I rechecked TDC with the piston stop and reset it to zero. I put the digital micrometer directly on the lip of the lifter, and zero’d it out. Knowing I wanted to do the intake centerline method, (stay with me here) I went to .200 lobe lift on either side of the lobe, recorded the degrees on either side and did the math. 104.75. Well, sh!t. Supposed to be 108. I tore everything down, rechecked TDC with the piston stop, reset the micrometer. And…same result. Not the end of the world, I have a 9-key way sprocket, but I felt I was doing something wrong (one or more of you already know- I was just spitballing an amount of lift to choose on either side.)

I remembered watching a good JAMSI video on YouTube when they were building a 383. He mentioned that with some cams, THE LOBES ARE NOT SYMMETRICAL. Eureka!

The way he does it, he chooses max lift on the micrometer, and goes down either side .050 to zero in from the top, rather than the base, which was more or less what I was doing (or at least, I was a lot further down the lobe). Using his method, I’m at 107 degrees intake centerline. Now, that’s better. Actually, perfect. As the chain wears and it retards, it’ll be on the money someday.

So now that you feel like you’ve read the bible or the IRS tax code on GMSB, I’ll just say that I’m starting my day in a good mood. I’ll double check everything today, and if it checks out I’ll move on to installing the rest of the pistons.
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