Subourbon
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Apr 28, 2020
- Posts
- 184
- Reaction score
- 134
- Location
- Quebec
- First Name
- Eric
- Truck Year
- 1982
- Truck Model
- K20 suburban
- Engine Size
- 6.2 V8
I had previously posted about a wanting to remove brake dummy light switch on the proportioning valvebl. But the but that holds that switch to the body of the valve is just seized, won't budge.
Anyways, fast forward through fixes and this n that.
Brake line where leak was that caused the prop valve issue is fixed. I got quick bleed screws in on wheel cylinders, and a vacuum bleeder in the back.
Missus is lumping the brakes as I crack a caliper bleed up forward hoping to recenter properly valve piston. Dummy light is still on. (Missus' break was over so she had to go back to the "office", work from home life is sweet). Anyways im scratching my head what the hell... the master cylinder level went down for the rear! Huh?!
Run to the back open up a quick bleed and apply a bit of vacuum with the bleeder. I'm getting fluid! What on earth!?!
After doing this on both wheels cylinders and a bit of pumping, she's a hard pedal now folks.
But!
The dummy light is still on!
I was out there today having a look around the valve:
Now, i know that normal operating mode a pin sits inside the valve floating above the part of the plunger (piston) that is tapered so its not making any contact. Circuit open, no dummy light.
Now should you lose fluid front or rear, depending, the larger diameter of piston makes contact with the pin, pushing it up to the switch, closing the circuit and triggers the light.
I thought, maybe its stuck up, so with a pick i tried pushing it down but she's stiff, feels like im making contact with something... I took a picture of the pin, (bear with me folks its in the stock position under the rad support, so it a pics through a telescopic mirror that I angled to see)...
But when i was researching this after coming inside before posting here, the pins in the images on the google machine looked just like mine here.
So after all that history and context, here are my questions:
Could a bad ground trigger this warning light?
I haven't really gone for a drive yet coz I have the dash torn apart in preparation to install dakota digital and I want to make sure everything works before I start using the wires from the 18 pin plugs to the old cluster,
but reason for saying this is, maybe the pedal needs more pumping from a regular Drive, maybe plunger is only slightly reset?
Reason why I think could be bad grounds also is:
The signal wire isn't connected at the moment, its as it is in the picture below, meaning circuit is open, so no light. But the light still there!
So, is it possessed, am I not understanding this part of the system electrically?!
Id love some help with this, its so weird.
Anyways, fast forward through fixes and this n that.
Brake line where leak was that caused the prop valve issue is fixed. I got quick bleed screws in on wheel cylinders, and a vacuum bleeder in the back.
Missus is lumping the brakes as I crack a caliper bleed up forward hoping to recenter properly valve piston. Dummy light is still on. (Missus' break was over so she had to go back to the "office", work from home life is sweet). Anyways im scratching my head what the hell... the master cylinder level went down for the rear! Huh?!
Run to the back open up a quick bleed and apply a bit of vacuum with the bleeder. I'm getting fluid! What on earth!?!
After doing this on both wheels cylinders and a bit of pumping, she's a hard pedal now folks.
But!
The dummy light is still on!
I was out there today having a look around the valve:
Now, i know that normal operating mode a pin sits inside the valve floating above the part of the plunger (piston) that is tapered so its not making any contact. Circuit open, no dummy light.
Now should you lose fluid front or rear, depending, the larger diameter of piston makes contact with the pin, pushing it up to the switch, closing the circuit and triggers the light.
I thought, maybe its stuck up, so with a pick i tried pushing it down but she's stiff, feels like im making contact with something... I took a picture of the pin, (bear with me folks its in the stock position under the rad support, so it a pics through a telescopic mirror that I angled to see)...
But when i was researching this after coming inside before posting here, the pins in the images on the google machine looked just like mine here.
So after all that history and context, here are my questions:
Could a bad ground trigger this warning light?
I haven't really gone for a drive yet coz I have the dash torn apart in preparation to install dakota digital and I want to make sure everything works before I start using the wires from the 18 pin plugs to the old cluster,
but reason for saying this is, maybe the pedal needs more pumping from a regular Drive, maybe plunger is only slightly reset?
Reason why I think could be bad grounds also is:
The signal wire isn't connected at the moment, its as it is in the picture below, meaning circuit is open, so no light. But the light still there!
So, is it possessed, am I not understanding this part of the system electrically?!
Id love some help with this, its so weird.