bad ignition?

[Nick.koehler6]

I have an 83 k10. I recently removed the carb to clean it. I put it back on and my truck will not start. it's getting 14.3V to the starter. I can jump the starter selling to turn the starter over. when I use the key nothing happens doesn't make a single sound. I am lost on this. please help!

 

[chengny]

You have power to the big stud on the solenoid and if you jump power to the "S" terminal it cranks up - right? I think that is what this means:

I can jump the starter selling to turn the starter over.

That would indicate no power to the solenoid from the ignition switch. Have someone turn the key to the START position and check for 12VDC coming into the solenoid at the "S" terminal. I think the wire is purple and it is on a small stud all by itself.

I think we can assume that you won't see power at the purple wire/"S" terminal with the key in START.

You don't mention what kind of transmission you have (standard or automatic). But you could be losing the signal from the ignition switch at the CSS (clutch safety switch) if you have a manual - or at the NSS (neutral safety switch) if an automatic. I think they still used an NSS in 1983.

The CSS is like a brake light switch except it is operated by the clutch pedal arm. Find it and jump it out as a test. There will be a yellow lead and the previously mentioned purple one. Pull the connector off and jump the yellow to the purple and then try cranking.

The NSS (used for automatic transmissions) is located at the very base of the steering column along with the back up light switch. They are mounted to a white plastic collar. The NSS uses the same color wires as the CSS. Find the yellow and purple, pull them and jumper across the terminal connections. Try the starter.

If you don't get any results, check that there is power on the yellow lead with the key in START. If not it could be your ignition switch but more likely (considering where you have been working lately - the carburetor) it is the fusible link.

Yours may not look exactly like this, but it will be similar:

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Use the red probe of your meter to pierce the insulation above the fuse and touch the other to ground.

If you have power on one side but not the other - the fuse is blown.

If you have no power on either side of the link, check the fusible links down at the starter solenoid in the same manner.


They are probably up in the pipe a bit and you'll have to pull on the ends to expose the links:

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[MrMarty51]

If it is a fusible link, You might not have headlights, turn signals and probably a bunch of other stuff that will not work.

 

[chengny]

Well IDK, the main lighting feed is on a different circuit - with a separate fusible link. The starter/solenoid and hot wire to the distributor have their own circuit (the one protected by the link at the firewall).

You are right, he probably has no hot wire to the distributor or ACC's either - but in all the confusion that has most likely not been identified yet. If the engine can't crank up, who's going to notice a no-spark situation?

It could be something simple like he physically broke the wire at the junction block - you never know.

 

[Nick.koehler6]

Well IDK, the main lighting feed is on a different circuit - with a separate fusible link. The starter/solenoid and hot wire to the distributor have their own circuit (the one protected by the link at the firewall).

You are right, he probably has no hot wire to the distributor or ACC's either - but in all the confusion that has most likely not been identified yet. If the engine can't crank up, who's going to notice a no-spark situation?

It could be something simple like he physically broke the wire at the junction block - you never know.

The fusable link by the firewall was bad. The insulation was melted. How do you go about replacing it though?

 

[chengny]

If the link failed due to some overcurrent incident (which is the way it is designed to work), simply replacing it will be a waste of time/money. That fact that it melted the insulation would indicate that this is the case. You need to find out why it failed first.

Pull the negative cable off the battery. Cut out the burnt fusible link. For testing purposes, buy a universal in-line fuse holder and temporarily splice it in where the link was. Get something like this - maybe $4 at O'Reilly's:

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If you look closely at the image of the fusible link, you will notice a "16" embossed on the casing. That is the amperage it is rated to melt at. There are no 16 amp fuses available but you will be okay if you stick a 20 amp in the new fuse holder.

Re-attach the negative cable to the battery and wait a minute. Check the new fuse. If it is okay, get in the truck and turn the key to RUN and wait a couple of seconds. Get out and check the fuse. If it is still okay, get back in and try to start the engine.

If it starts and runs, you may have dodged a bullet. The fusible link may have failed for mechanical reasons (old age/vibration/wiring stress etc.) and you have no other electrical issues.

In that case, you can remove the temporary fuse holder at the firewall and splice in a new fusible link using permanent connections. Then get back into the truck, crank it up and drive off into the sunset!

If the fuse blows at any of the test stages, come back and we'll figure out what is causing the excessive amp draw.

 

[chengny]

BTW - I have to ask:

Why didn't you mention the following in your initial post?

Hey guys I have a bad fusable link, I got in a hurry and hooked up the battery cables backwards, I know..Im dumb. I see a puff of smoke come from the firewall on the drivers side and smelt burnt rubber. I looked around and found a burned wire. Since that has had happened, Iv had a no start problem with my 83 k-10 with a 350 motor. I have 14.4V at the starter. I beleve that the fusable link has something to do with it. How do you replace this inline fuses?e


Had you included that info, I wouldn't have needed to spend over a 1/2 hour writing and illustrating the diagnostic procedure in post #2. And then, to top it off, you start a whole new post asking how to install a new fusible link. IDK dude - that's just wrong.

 

[Nick.koehler6]

My bad, I was in a very big rush. Thanks for all the info though!

BTW - I have to ask:

Why didn't you mention the following in your initial post?

Hey guys I have a bad fusable link, I got in a hurry and hooked up the battery cables backwards, I know..Im dumb. I see a puff of smoke come from the firewall on the drivers side and smelt burnt rubber. I looked around and found a burned wire. Since that has had happened, Iv had a no start problem with my 83 k-10 with a 350 motor. I have 14.4V at the starter. I beleve that the fusable link has something to do with it. How do you replace this inline fuses?e


Had you included that info, I wouldn't have needed to spend over a 1/2 hour writing and illustrating the diagnostic procedure in post #2. And then, to top it off, you start a whole new post asking how to install a new fusible link. IDK dude - that's just wrong.