Axle advice needed

[CSFJ]

I have the opportunity to pick up a dana 70 for cheap. I need to know the differences between it and the 14 bolt ff varients. My truck will have a 1 ton frame and single rear wheels. Is there any combination of hub hardware that will result in a track width that's a usable match for a srw 4wd? Or should I continue to look for a 14b ff that originally came under a 1 ton srw?

 

[bucket]

The D70 is a wider axle, including the WMS to WMS measurement. You will just be looking for a SRW 14bolt, it can be from a 2wd or a 4x4.

You can use a DRW 14bolt from a cab-chassis truck, but you will need SRW hubs and then also relocate the brakes on the housing (converting to disc brakes with weld-on caliper brackets would be easiest).

 

[CSFJ]

The D70 is a wider axle, including the WMS to WMS measurement. You will just be looking for a SRW 14bolt, it can be from a 2wd or a 4x4.

You can use a DRW 14bolt from a cab-chassis truck, but you will need SRW hubs and then also relocate the brakes on the housing (converting to disc brakes with weld-on caliper brackets would be easiest).

Yeah, that's what I've found out. I will still pick these up as I will be getting the d70 and a d44 front for $200. I may look into getting the d70 narrowed, or if that's to big of a deal, I'll see if I can move it to one of the guy's building rock buggies. Not really looking to go rear disc, never had any issue with drum brakes. Spent some time at work the other day chasing down links form here and Pirate, trying to learn what these have in common and what they don't. looks like some of the hub hardware is interchangeable?

 

[HotRodPC]

Yeah, that's what I've found out. I will still pick these up as I will be getting the d70 and a d44 front for $200. I may look into getting the d70 narrowed, or if that's to big of a deal, I'll see if I can move it to one of the guy's building rock buggies. Not really looking to go rear disc, never had any issue with drum brakes. Spent some time at work the other day chasing down links form here and Pirate, trying to learn what these have in common and what they don't. looks like some of the hub hardware is interchangeable?

That's still a deal. The D44 8 lug is worth the $200. Put that D70 right back on CL until it eventually sales. Someone doing a dually conversion will snag it from you. The expense to narrow the D70 you'll be able to find a 14b FF ready to go and not have to spend all the cash on hub swap and such.

 

[crazy4offroad]

I'd offer $75 for the D44 and spend the rest on a 3/4 ton 14b ff. The brake drums are "lighter" than the 1-ton 14b ff and I'm sure once you've had to handle those "lighter" drums a couple times you'll want to put discs on it lol. Plus with the 3/4 ton 14b you don't have to swap any hubs, relocate any perches, and fundamentally there isn't a great deal difference between the 2, and no difference where it really counts like ring & pinion, carrier & pinion bearing size and hub bearing size. Just some more ribbing on the pumpkin (weight) and the heavier duty brakes (more weight).

 

[HotRodPC]

I sure wish I could find an 8 lug D44 or even 10 bolt. I haven't installed my 4.10/4.11 10 bolt front in my K10 yet since I don't have 8 lug hubs. Got the 14b FF installed in the rear though. I now wish I didn't do that and sold the rear 10 bolt. I could at least get it running and drive it and be alot more motivated with it.

 

[CSFJ]

I sure wish I could find an 8 lug D44 or even 10 bolt. I haven't installed my 4.10/4.11 10 bolt front in my K10 yet since I don't have 8 lug hubs. Got the 14b FF installed in the rear though. I now wish I didn't do that and sold the rear 10 bolt. I could at least get it running and drive it and be alot more motivated with it.

That's exactly what this d44 is supposed to be, a 4.10 8 lug. The axles are coming from a coworker who was going to use them on a project blazer, but plans changed. He's already cleared out most of the rest, and is tired of looking at the axles in the yard.

 

[CSFJ]

I'd offer $75 for the D44 and spend the rest on a 3/4 ton 14b ff. The brake drums are "lighter" than the 1-ton 14b ff and I'm sure once you've had to handle those "lighter" drums a couple times you'll want to put discs on it lol. Plus with the 3/4 ton 14b you don't have to swap any hubs, relocate any perches, and fundamentally there isn't a great deal difference between the 2, and no difference where it really counts like ring & pinion, carrier & pinion bearing size and hub bearing size. Just some more ribbing on the pumpkin (weight) and the heavier duty brakes (more weight).

This isn't a pick and choose kind of situation, it's more of a you can have these for xx amount as long as they leave my yard. You kind of lost me on the rest, my truck is currently a v20, but the new frame and suspension going under it are from a k30. So, unless I misunderstood what you were saying, the most direct bolt in will be a 14b ff from a srw k30. the real trick will be finding one with a 3.73 gear in it.

 

[HotRodPC]

This isn't a pick and choose kind of situation, it's more of a you can have these for xx amount as long as they leave my yard. You kind of lost me on the rest, my truck is currently a v20, but the new frame and suspension going under it are from a k30. So, unless I misunderstood what you were saying, the most direct bolt in will be a 14b ff from a srw k30. the real trick will be finding one with a 3.73 gear in it.

That makes it even eaiser being a V20 since C/K R/V 20 14bolt will bolt in and much more common. So a R/V30 14b Full Float won't bolt right in. Spring perches are different on the 1 tons. As I suggested, use the Dana 44 front axle, sell the Dana 70 and see out a 14b FF 3/4 ton axle. 4.10 and 3.73 ratios are most common, 4.10's probably a tad bit more common than the 3.73. Find the 4.10 14b Full Float out of a 3/4 ton it'll bolt right in your V20. That will for sure be the much cheaper way to go.

Why are you wanting a 3.73 rear ratio if the D44 is 4.10? I'd just run the 4.10.

 

[HotRodPC]

I guess I'm figuring out, you really don't need the D44 4.10 axle. So this deal really isn't for you at all being it appears you're probably just trying to upgrade from the Semi Float to a Full Float or Dana 70 right? I wish to hell this was closer. I'd sure take both for $200 cuz I need that front 8 lug hub set up.

 

[crazy4offroad]

@HotRodPC he's saying he is swapping frames to K30 so actually they will work. I'm unsure of the perch width of the D70 but it sounds to me he actually can use both as long as the perch width is I think 40.5" center hole to center hole. The main issue will be do you want it to be a dually or SRW? I wouldn't get into widening or narrowing an axle, just swap around till you find what you need to bolt in.

 

[CSFJ]

@HotRodPC he's saying he is swapping frames to K30 so actually they will work. I'm unsure of the perch width of the D70 but it sounds to me he actually can use both as long as the perch width is I think 40.5" center hole to center hole. The main issue will be do you want it to be a dually or SRW? I wouldn't get into widening or narrowing an axle, just swap around till you find what you need to bolt in.

This. I am going to stay with the srw style, If it isn't worth the hassle to narrow the d70 (and at this point I don't know for sure which d70 it is, I thought he said it was a dually originally, but from what I've read some of the ford applications might be closer to a srw width) then I'll use them for trade bait down the road. At the moment, The corp 10 will stay under the front only until I can find a deal on a d60.

 

[CSFJ]

That makes it even eaiser being a V20 since C/K R/V 20 14bolt will bolt in and much more common. So a R/V30 14b Full Float won't bolt right in. Spring perches are different on the 1 tons. As I suggested, use the Dana 44 front axle, sell the Dana 70 and see out a 14b FF 3/4 ton axle. 4.10 and 3.73 ratios are most common, 4.10's probably a tad bit more common than the 3.73. Find the 4.10 14b Full Float out of a 3/4 ton it'll bolt right in your V20. That will for sure be the much cheaper way to go.

Why are you wanting a 3.73 rear ratio if the D44 is 4.10? I'd just run the 4.10.

Want to stay with The 3.73 simply because that will match the front axle for the moment. Eventually I plan to swap a d60 under the front to complete the k30 conversion. I don't think I'll need to go as deep as a 4.10 gear because I'm not running an oversized tire, and am leaning towards a 500 cube cad engine to put in front of the 465 trans. (no shortage of torque)

I'll get these home in the next week, and figure out what I actually have to work with. I Know we talked about the cab you had last year, but I ended up having to put a roof on my kitchen. This year however, things are looking up. I'm still in need of a cab, and if you still are thinking about getting rid of one, perhaps we could work out a partial trade.

 

[bucket]

The D70 axle is also useful to someone that's wanting to run the beadlock H1 rims.

 

[HotRodPC]

@HotRodPC he's saying he is swapping frames to K30 so actually they will work. I'm unsure of the perch width of the D70 but it sounds to me he actually can use both as long as the perch width is I think 40.5" center hole to center hole. The main issue will be do you want it to be a dually or SRW? I wouldn't get into widening or narrowing an axle, just swap around till you find what you need to bolt in.

Yep you're right. I didn't catch the 1 ton frame swap. The D70 perch width should be the same as an 1 ton whether it was a dually or SRW didn't matter. Perch spacing was the same. IIRC, even on the Cab & Chassis 1 ton, spring perch is the same, but the C&C rear end is narrower from Drum to Drum.