Anyone know how to get to this switch?

[R8rPhan]

Thought maybe there would be access once the kick panel was removed.. Not so! It's solid sheet metal there..

Looked in the jamb.. Crawled underneath the truck to see if there was any access from underneath... Nope..

Is there some trick I'm missing, or are we expected to fish it through the 1" hole up inside the dash where the wire comes out? Or at least i 'think' it's a 1" hole.. There a rubber plug about that size there...

 

[R8rPhan]

Okay, it just screws out... I was afraid to do that, thinking it was a nut on the switch put in from the back, I feared it would just fall into the cab innards never to be seen again... or once loosened never being able to be tightened again without being able to hold the back while doing so...

It's definitely bad.. Need a new one...

 

[gmachinz]

GM 19021203 is the one you want to use-you can still get them from GM.

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

GM 19021203 is the one you want to use-you can still get them from GM.

Good to know. I went junkyarding for those in the past.

 

[R8rPhan]

GM 19021203 is the one you want to use-you can still get them from GM.

I bought a switch from NAPA a couple weeks ago as I was about 80% sure the switch was bad... If I can only find where I put it..

Things are getting kinda spread out by now...

I'm sure it will immediately show up as soon as I put everything up, wash my hands, etc..

lol

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

You'll be tripping over it all day when you don't want or need it, and when you need it, it won't appear until after you've called it a day. And then the cycle repeats itself...

 

[R8rPhan]

It was in the rec room, sitting on the bar, right out in the open... I found it later when I went to pour myself a beer after I was all through for the day.....

Was looking in the parts boxes on the floor.. lol

I installed it, and the male connector on the wire that I used to replace the existing corroded one with fell out when I slammed the door shut, so I ended up having to fish the damn wire out that little hole anyways, which was actually quite easy.. put it back in the connector, and lightly crimped it..

Now the courtesy light and new LED dome light work as they should..

But I put the courtesy lamp on the passenger side of the hump, now I need one for the driver's side, but I can only find them sold as complete sets, with 2 of the lamp holders, two jamb switches, and a wire harness... priced anywhere from $25 to $100 plus shipping..

I just want the damn socket.. just one.. Might have to redneck something up..

 

[Kasey 1977 K10]

door jam switch

GM 19021203 is the one you want to use-you can still get them from GM.

Is 19021203 the right one for a 1977 K10 Fleetside? I have ordered about 5 of these from different places. Either the sleeve is too long and digs into the door when closing it or the bolt thread is too narrow and it wont screw in. I've exhausted all of my online searches (LMC, RockAuto, Summit Racing) and local stores (Napa, Baxter, Oreileys). If this is the one I'd be very excited!

 

[chengny]

Is 19021203 the right one for a 1977 K10 Fleetside? Either the sleeve is too long and digs into the door when closing it or the bolt thread is too narrow and it wont screw in.

No it's not. Prior to 1984 (and from 1968) the part number for the door jamb switch was 14014578.

But the part number may not be the problem. Before you buy another switch, be aware that installing these switches is more involved than just threading it into the jamb - the extended length has to be set so that it matches the closed door gap.

OEM jamb switches from GM are adjustable. Not all cars/trucks have the same size gap in the door jamb switch area. To avoid having to produce a vehicle specific switch for every model, the switch is supplied with excess extension on purpose. The switch body is a press fit within the threaded bushing. The first time the door is closed, the switch is forced down deeper into the bushing - to a depth that conforms to the gap. By design, the switch body fit is tight to the ID of the bushing. This is so it does not move after the correct height is set. Consequently, it takes quite a bit of pressure to move the switch within the bushing at initial adjustment.

Read this:

Out of the box, a replacement switch may look a little too long when installed in the jamb, but it will self-adjust. The sleeve is very tight and requires a good amount of force to make it slide down into the nut.

You can also tap them down with a hammer carefully in a vise if you wish to set the height before the install. But, if you use a vise, make sure you don't over squeeze the nut.
and

Don't be concerned about the shoulder because once installed, gently close the door and longer shoulder-shank will press into the body.

Below is how setting the jamb switch should work. The top picture as it is right out of the box, the middle one after installing it - and closing the door to set the slide tube portion, and the bottom one shows an adjusted switch - with the door closed and breaking the female end connection ground.

You must be registered for see images attach

http://www.camaros.net/forums/34-restoration-corner/193474-door-jamb-plunger-switches.html

http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=61389.0

 

[Kasey 1977 K10]

No it's not. Prior to 1984 (and from 1968) the part number for the door jamb switch was 14014578.

But the part number may not be the problem. Before you buy another switch, be aware that installing these switches is more involved than just threading it into the jamb - the extended length has to be set so that it matches the closed door gap.

OEM jamb switches from GM are adjustable. Not all cars/trucks have the same size gap in the door jamb switch area. To avoid having to produce a vehicle specific switch for every model, the switch is supplied with excess extension on purpose. The switch body is a press fit within the threaded bushing. The first time the door is closed, the switch is forced down deeper into the bushing - to a depth that conforms to the gap. By design, the switch body fit is tight to the ID of the bushing. This is so it does not move after the correct height is set. Consequently, it takes quite a bit of pressure to move the switch within the bushing at initial adjustment.

Read this:

Out of the box, a replacement switch may look a little too long when installed in the jamb, but it will self-adjust. The sleeve is very tight and requires a good amount of force to make it slide down into the nut.

You can also tap them down with a hammer carefully in a vise if you wish to set the height before the install. But, if you use a vise, make sure you don't over squeeze the nut.
and

Don't be concerned about the shoulder because once installed, gently close the door and longer shoulder-shank will press into the body.

Below is how setting the jamb switch should work. The top picture as it is right out of the box, the middle one after installing it - and closing the door to set the slide tube portion, and the bottom one shows an adjusted switch - with the door closed and breaking the female end connection ground.

You must be registered for see images attach

http://www.camaros.net/forums/34-restoration-corner/193474-door-jamb-plunger-switches.html

http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=61389.0

Having a hard time finding that part. Do you think these would work or do you know where I can pick up two of the 14014578's?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Qty-Nos-G...ash=item25a8aca85e:g:V0UAAOxyYTRSY1n8&vxp=mtr

 

[Oldrider]

Great info.
Thanks

 

[DanMcG]

Thanks for the write up chengny, I never knew they were self adjusting.