After market seatbelts are expensive... looking for other ideas

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fast 99

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Dual retractor SB belts have a weight that under decel will lock the retractor. It does allow some movement of the passengers. If you have ever driven a vehicle without that function, belts will continually ratchet tighter. I have a 72 Ford like that it is somewhat annoying.

As stated above newer vehicles have an explosive cartridge. Belts will tighten upon impact, one time use. I believe the issue with getting belts re-webbed is DOT certification cost and liability. During my research in several places, it was stated the lifespan of belts is 5 years. For whatever that's worth.
 

dkraven

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I am not sure what you consider crazy expensive but for being the lone safety feature in my truck, I found the prices through retrobelt not to be too terrible.

Those aren't too bad and after reading people's posts I can see there'd be issues in using seatbelts from a more modern truck in my 77. I don't want some rickety foolhardy setup, but if there was a safe cheaper solution I was curious. Mostly the truck is for runs to haul yard material, but my kid will also drive it, and those are kind of irreplaceable.
 

RanchWelder

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That's right. 5 years. Just like tires. This is why the longest manufaturure's warranty on a US vehicle is 5 years.
That, is technically the life of your vehicle. After that your rig was supposed to go into old number 5 and become a battleship. (#5 is the gigantic steel forge in Ohio). Provided we could keep a fast paced economy with 85-90 % of people with a descent, recurring income. So much for that program...

How many of you change the webbing every 5 years?
If you're worried about the manufacturer's liability costs for a new set of belts, start thinking of your own, for not knowing your own liability with 5 year old rubber and defective webbing.

Every man and woman inspects their own harness, or in my case rigging equipment.
Sensible people, have a second set of eyes cross examine these details, as well and ask for assistance, with something they don't know.

Now you know I'm not trying to B/S anybody.

Keeping up to date inventory and rotating out out of date stock is the main problem with any US Gov web supplier/manufacturer. Some assemblers, eventually get into trouble and lose their contracts when they get caught dumping the old materials to another manufacturer, who gets fined for sub-standard date codes or faking the documentation authenticity. You have to maintain accurate records for a long time.

It's a game. It ain't a pretty one either. Industrial espionage and deep politics, lobbying for huge contracts in the seat belt world too. Uncle Sam will accept a bid for $2MilUS, then you start sewing, then they don't pay for 6 months, then they press you for more product, then they don't pay for a year... Then they file a law suit because somebody's belt failed and before you see anywhere near that $2MilUS, you're spending 1/4 of it in litigation. Or worse yet a recall. Now your 50 sewing machines are sitting empty and all the good folks who worked so hard to make everything really well are out of a job. Game over... Next.

Now you know why the dated 5 point on your race car, which is inspected every year, costs so much money.
You're probably buying from a guy who makes Jet Fighter Seat Belts. (Who probably loses money doing it at the ridiculous prices charged). Hopefully they make it up on bullets and band aids...

...and why it is so tough to sort out an ethical manufacturer with actual USA Custom Made to Order belts, which actually meet the date requirements of proper insurance liability. If your new belts don't have a date of manufacture and a date of expiration sewn into the labels, you're out of order. Call your insurance agent claims team and ask them yourself, if you dare... because they could easily document the call and re-rate you for asking!

Especially if you pay for collector's insurance and full replacement comprehensive for a classic.

By the way... this is one of the secrets to winning a classic car show contest... The guy who drove to the show, with the original belts in his show car, is not supposed to win first prize because of negligence...
He or she would have swapped in the originals after arriving safely and within regs...

The old set of Tan belts the earlier guy offered to send the OP, is giving away belts needed to win first place!
Washed, cleaned and restored, those babies are probably worth a fortune, to the guy who's classic is missing them for show day.

They are worthless for your daily driver.
The hardware for custom made belts is what they may be good for.


Just saying...

In the end, you are on your own to verify your climbing gear for the trek to the center of the coliseum, upside down under the i-beam.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

If we can find a USA supplier and a Vendor willing to acquire our member some first quality date coded basic USA black belt materials and organize a group buy for strap by the 1000' roll, we can buy good quality strap and have it stitched locally or use an awl and a fid and sew it ourselves.

Five stitches total, three-four needle loops 1/4" apart tied in a knot, in a square pattern for 4 corners and one in the middle. 5-point stitching. With gloves on, a fid some wax and a little super glue to lock the Kevlar after stitching/knotting, you can save $300 and do it all yourself. Probably better than the cheapo webbing from Hunan and YOU know your rig is right, because you did it. It's not rocket science. It's sewing.

If we negotiate a forum sponsor to offer some heavy Kevlar thread and we run our own leather needle through some webbing, we can stitch our own webbing legally and ethically. For a few cold winter days, we all get to make our own hand made belts. We'll need a group buy on the hardware mounts or a vendor to supply them on a per order basis with a belt supply company. Buying the parts and doing it ourselves is the best solution, if you really have to save a buck.

If I could afford to float the parts and webbing I would. I cannot.
Who's poor on disability income and want's to learn how to tie a bowline or stitch webbing and save $300?
 
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LocoLocal

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Those aren't too bad and after reading people's posts I can see there'd be issues in using seatbelts from a more modern truck in my 77. I don't want some rickety foolhardy setup, but if there was a safe cheaper solution I was curious. Mostly the truck is for runs to haul yard material, but my kid will also drive it, and those are kind of irreplaceable.

I spent $50 for some belts out of a C10 at a junkyard, but realized how bad of an idea that was when I was installing them.

I can't tell you that retrobelt is the best on the market, but I did a lot of digging before I bought through them. I say through them, because all of the sites you will see mentioned are simply vendors - they do not make the belts themselves.

With a driver and passenger set going for roughly $200, I can tell you I got well over 4x the value and quality compared to the junkyard belts. I should've just bought the retrobelts (or your other vendor of choice) first. "Buy once, cry once," as they say.

If it were me, especially with the kid driving, I would save up and buy what you think is best based on your research. For me, that was retrobelt.

And let's hope none of us ever have to find out really how good any of these belts are.
 

SquareRoot

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Well. RanchWelder took this thread on a deep dive. lol. I do appreciate his knowledge on things I've not pondered before. In hindsight, I was wondering about the strictly mechanical aspect of the squarebody seatbelt mechanism. I'm pretty sure when I took mine apart, cleaned and reassembled them I didn't see any wires, explosive cartridges, TNT or napalm inside?

In the meantime, I discovered the difference in strictly "emergency" retractors and "old school automatic" that our trucks have. Pretty basic now that I know the terminology. I also found a company that I'll be sending my belts too to get new webbing (color change) installed, that's certified to MVD requirements, has fast turnaround and reasonably priced. They are US made and a supplier the the OEMs. They charge $99.97 per belt, regardless of the configuration. https://www.safetyrestore.com/webbing-replacement
 

QBuff02

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In the heavy equipment world we are mandated to replace complete seat/lap belt assemblies every 3 years from the installed date. At the company I work for now, they keep a computer record of when they are changed and we get notification 30 days from expiration that they are coming due for replacement. On my '82 K30, the seat belt assemblies were in a box of interior parts when I bought it and not installed in the truck, I couldn't see myself reinstalling roughly 40 year old belts, so I bought new ones and I think i had less than $150 in the set of 3. (it's been a few years now) but for the life of me knowing it's the only line of defense if something were to happen, I just couldn't trust the originals. I call it cheap insurance. It's like the equivalent of running good oil and oil filter on a performance engine.
 

RanchWelder

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Cool.
Please do not install modern activated belts and think they will work without the computer control system and the activation mechanisms.
They won't. You'll get hurt. Bad idea... NONO
 
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hip2bsquare

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not sure if you are wanting to find replacements or brand new set(s), there is a person that does a FANTASTIC job of "restoring" factory seatbelts specifically for squares. a little cheaper than new, but the workmanship and looks are excellent!!
link: renewed seatbelts
the link is worth a check! I am not affiliated... just previous dealings.
good luck!! ;)
 

Ricko1966

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Or you could go for the race look...



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I just saw this post. Racing harnesses and especially just parts of racing harnesses are a bad idea for street use. The elasticity of the straps is not the same its like towing with a chain instead of a strap. The stop when you hit the belt is more violent with a harness. The sudden stop can be enough to pull your brain stem loose, Im no doctor but I think that is always or almost always fatal. Like climbing gear or safety straps, using a rope instead might seem acceptable, but might also kill or mame you.
 

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