86 Suburban Rear door (drivers side) not sealing at top

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Casper

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Ohio
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Kev
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1986
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Suburban
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350 soon to be Cummins 5.9
I'll try and post some pics of a few issues with the drivers side rear passenger door and the rear passenger side barn door in the next few days. They are not sealing.

The drivers side passenger door looks to be canted out at the top. It doesn't look sprung but acts that way. When it rains, water pours in through the top of the seal as it does not make contact at the top.

The rear barn door has a pretty even gap of 3/16" from top to bottom. The seal isn't making contact . I messed with the strike plate on the bottom but that didn't seem to help.

It looks like someone had the doors off and didn't get them aligned correctly. I just bought the truck from an owner out in AZ, he only had it about a month but had to sell due to recent health issues. I drove out to pick it up and got home this past Sat and it rained Sunday and that's when I noticed.

Is there an adjustment for the doors on the back side of the exterior mounts? It doesn't look like there is enough movement anywhere on the visible side. I will take this to the body shop if needed, I'd just hate to take it there and pay for what could be an easy fix.

Thanks in advance.,

Kev
 

skysurfer

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Assuming the door seals are in good shape. Are you missing the seal that's attached to the body at the top of the barn doors?
 

Casper

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I'll try and post some pic's tomorrow. The barn doors have an even gap that runs top to bottom where it mates with the drivers side barn door. The seal is not touching the mating side on the other door.

The drivers side rear passenger door is where it is leaking in from the top.
 

scottybaccus

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when you open the front door, you should be able to see the bolts for the rear door hinges. I don't recall if they bolt or were welded to the door, but this is where you will adjust, if the hinges bolt to the door.
You also need to inspect the B pillar here for damage. Compare it to the other side, checking for plumb, measuring gaps, etc.
If the bottom of the door is aligned OK, then you need to form the window frame by placing a block of wood between the striker and the latch, and pulling the top of the frame inward (window down). You should see small dimples in the frame of the door, level with the bottom of the window. They are the point at which this was meant to bend. Use your hands. No hammers, winches or hydraulic rams. Just put some oomph into it.
 

Casper

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update:

Took it to my local body shop guy for his opinion. He adjusted the rear, drivers side, passenger door for free (loosened some bolts and gave it a tug and WALA...fixed) and he was messing with the rear cargo door when he realized it was missing the door seal on the drivers side. I looked at the seal when Skysurfer mentioned it, which is in place. The backwards "C" shaped door seal is the one missing. He didn't charge me a dime, he said he missed messing with the old trucks.

I ordered the seals and some bumpers that are missing from LMC. I hope they get here soon.
 
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