85 Pulls to Right Brake Overhaul

[jastewart25]

So my 1985 K10 pulls pretty bad at 15mph+ when applying brakes lightly or hard.

I had a mechanic go through everything this weekend. Brake pads are pretty much brand new/hoses/etc. The calipers are pretty new & he says he can replace them if I want but it may still pull after replacement.

I am not experienced with these vehicles & I purchased to be a daily driver especially for 60 mile trips to hunting camp.

Can these vehicles ever brake like new trucks? I want to feel safe and I absolutely do not as of now.

If they can be made to stop & brake like modern vehicles, what kind of brake system do I need to install? I'm prepared to spend the $ to make this truck safe!! Thank you!

 

[Skweegle89]

You may just need to bleed the brake lines. There is a thread on here that explains how to install rear disc brakes I think.


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[texnet]

It could be as simple as adjusting the right rear brake.

As for braking like a modern vehicle, that can be done. Just replace the rear braking system with disk brakes and a new dual disk type master cylinder.

 

[Quadrajet Power]

I agree with the comments above.

Typically, if a vehicle pulls hard during braking, it is a rear brake problem.

First thing I would do, would be to adjust the rear shoes and make sure the drums aren't too far worn for shoes to engage.

 

[jastewart25]

thanks for advice. i know this has been discussed in other threads it's just hard as a newbie to all things mechanical and chevy's to understand sometimes.

i believe i'm just going to do an entire overhaul. these brakes have gotten in my head! i can just see an 18 wheeler braking hard in front of me crossing the mississippi and my truck throwing me off the bridge! lol.

1. do i need to replace both front and rear to disc brakes? or should i just start with the rear?

2. what would be a good estimate $$$ wise for both front and back?

3. any good kit recommendations?

from what i'm reading i will order an adjustable prop/no e brake/and master cylinder. what is the benefit of hyrdroboost vs non re master cylinder?

THANKS EVERYONE!!

 

[350runner]

A good question is what will you do for an emergency brake if you do rear disc...

Sent from the dust in front of you!

 

[jastewart25]

i live in louisiana where there are no hills! i'll honestly never need one.

 

[350runner]

Lol

Sent from the dust in front of you!

 

[jastewart25]

ok,

so i've decided to replace all brake hoses/pads/calipers and bleed the brakes.

hopefully this will solve the issue and prevent me from having to replace the drums!

thanks for all the advice.

 

[Nasty-LSX]

ok,

so i've decided to replace all brake hoses/pads/calipers and bleed the brakes.

hopefully this will solve the issue and prevent me from having to replace the drums!

thanks for all the advice.

Sounds good. Just take your time bleeding the brakes.

 

[jastewart25]

prop valve

well here's a quick update:

new calipers and hoses and the front is still pulling to the right. i'm thinking it's the prop valve?

has anyone experienced a failed prop valve or do i just need to reset it? if i need to reset it how do i go about doing that?

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here is the photo of my prop valve

 

[CSFJ]

How's the rest of the suspension look? No cracked leaves, play in any steering components? Has the frame ever been bent (does it look like there were repairs, straightening done)? It seems odd, after all the hardware is replaced that the brakes would be the cause.

 

[chengny]

Doubtful that the proportional/combination valve is at fault. The hydraulic system consists of two circuits - front and rear - that originate at the master cylinder outlet. This front/rear design essentially assures balanced braking even in the event of a total brake line failure. ( as opposed to a left/right design).

The two circuits do pass through the PC valve, but due to it's design, there is really no way that hydraulic pressure/flow would ever be biased left or right. See the dwg below:

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Since your calipers are new, here is an easy test to check for equal flow to the left and right front brakes:

Go to either caliper - doesn't matter which one you do first. Stick a length of rubber hose on the bleeder and put the other end in a small container (a clear glass works best). Open the bleeder fitting exactly 1 turn. Have an assistant pump the brakes full stroke exactly 5 times - while you capture the purged brake fluid in the glass. After the 5 strokes, close the bleeder. Mark the side of the glass at the level of the brake fluid contained therein.

Do the same procedure at the other caliper and compare the amounts of brake fluid that was collected from each side. They should be very nearly the same.

If they are noticeably different, there is a restriction in the section of brake line that connects the PC valve to the caliper that produced the lesser amount.

 

[jt1200r]

Just adjust the left rear brake. Its not making good contact with the drum.

 

[jastewart25]

thank you all for replies.

it's at a shop right now getting a thorough walkthrough.

turns out the mechanic before the current one didn't actually go through everything. the brakes did not check out!

there was a leak in the left rear. as well, one of my gears in the rear axle is pretty much shot.

more to come i'm sure. we'll see!