84 C10 charcoal canister line question

[75gmck25]

Taylorb27 - What town are you from in North Dakota? I grew up there, and my truck came off a ND farm in 2002.

Bruce

 

[Taylorb27]

Taylorb27 - What town are you from in North Dakota? I grew up there, and my truck came off a ND farm in 2002.

Bruce

I live in Carrington, its Central north Dakota! Where did you grow up?

 

[C10MixMaster]

Seeing as I have some qjet knowledge in this thread I may as well ask my other question. Am I able to easily adapt the electric choke from my original carb to this carb? Beings the choke pull off is on the primary side rather than the secondary side like the original 84 carb is set up?

I really appreciate the responses! Btw I just ran the line in question to a nipple on the air cleaner that exited pointing towards the canister

ok there are 3 types of chokes used

early trucks use the divorced chokes the only way to convert to electric is with an aftermarket kit they run about $60

the later trucks used either a hot air choke or electric built into the carb. if you have a hot air choke you can convert it to electric by plugging the hot air line that goes into it and replacing the choke coil with the electric version. leave all the pull offs as they originally were on the carb.

 

[Taylorb27]

ok there are 3 types of chokes used

early trucks use the divorced chokes the only way to convert to electric is with an aftermarket kit they run about $60

the later trucks used either a hot air choke or electric built into the carb. if you have a hot air choke you can convert it to electric by plugging the hot air line that goes into it and replacing the choke coil with the electric version. leave all the pull offs as they originally were on the carb.

Ya this carb came from a divorced choke setup. I should just cut the mixture screw caps out of the original carb and be done with it.

 

[C10MixMaster]

Ya this carb came from a divorced choke setup. I should just cut the mixture screw caps out of the original carb and be done with it.

if the only thing wrong with the oe carb was idle mixture yes. just take your time so you dont butcher the base plate.

 

[Turbo4whl]

Ya this carb came from a divorced choke setup. I should just cut the mixture screw caps out of the original carb and be done with it.

After removing the plugs, some carb's had a screw head that looked like a double "D". GM was really trying to keep people from adjusting them.

 

[Turbo4whl]

Assuming the engine is too lean at idle, there are other things to check before you go to the trouble removing the idle mixture caps. You stated the vacuum lines were a mess and you disconnected things. Still running the air cleaner heat stove and or the vacuum powered exhaust heat riser? Those can be leaking. Any items running on manifold vacuum like the AC controls and brake booster can cause a lean idle.

The intake manifold gasket on the lower side could be pulling air through the valley of the engine. When you had the carb off, was there any oil laying in the manifold? The PVC valve could be stuck open, or even the wrong valve installed.

 

[75gmck25]

Taylorb27 - I grew up in Crosby. As a kid we used to drive through Carrington to get from Minot to Fargo, but then started going through Bismarck when State 83 became a four lane and I-94 speed limits went up.

My carb had the area around the mixture screws ground away and the caps removed, and my rebuild kit came with new mixture screws with standard heads. However, you can still buy the flexible Thexton tool that fits the screws with double D heads. Even with standard head screws It’s hard to turn them without getting real close to the metal fan. I usually shut the engine down and adjust them in 1/4 or 1/2 turn increments.

If you pull the carb, another thing to check is your transfer slot exposure at idle. It is the slot inside the bores next to the primary plates, and at curb idle it should look almost square (height same as width). Then adjust the mixture screws for best idle This setup should give you a good transition from idle to cruise, which reduces any off-idle bog.

Bruce

 

[Taylorb27]

Assuming the engine is too lean at idle, there are other things to check before you go to the trouble removing the idle mixture caps. You stated the vacuum lines were a mess and you disconnected things. Still running the air cleaner heat stove and or the vacuum powered exhaust heat riser? Those can be leaking. Any items running on manifold vacuum like the AC controls and brake booster can cause a lean idle.

The intake manifold gasket on the lower side could be pulling air through the valley of the engine. When you had the carb off, was there any oil laying in the manifold? The PVC valve could be stuck open, or even the wrong valve installed.

Nothing is currently running off of manifold vacuum other than the trans metal line, pcv (which still rattles) and brake booster, all of which I've blocked off to test at one point but are hooked back up now.
When it's idling fine it's pulling 18hg of vacuum. When I'm done driving it and put it into park it'll idle at like 1300 rpm and sometimes slow down. I just need to get the 350 I've slowly been building done too I guess