82 C10 EFI Conversion project

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Made a little more progress.

Front fuel lines are roughed in. Wound up running a new 3/8" return line with a flare fitting.

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New motor mounts in.

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Accessory drive slapped onto the new engine, just about ready to drop in now.

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Needed to do a little minor trimming on the valve covers to clear the alternator. But everything fits up pretty good. Alternator is a little closer than I would like to the driver side manifold, will see what I can do to shield some of the heat as I suspect it might get pretty toasty in this space.

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Now I need to scout for a trans jack I can borrow to roll the trans into position and get the motor dropped in.

 

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FML

Had a feeling this project was going too smooth.



2 of these (15 year old) mcguard wheel locks stripped/cammed out on me. Chiseling them off was no Bueno. They have the hardness of used chewing gum, so will try my luck with an "emergency removal socket" deal to try and break them free. Worst case I can weld the "key" to the worst one and try to get it off that way, since there are two I am kind of in a precarious spot. Sigh....

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Needed to pull out the universal locksmith tool, made quick work and didn't roach my wheels too bad. Done with the wheel lock things, they suck! lol

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Just zapped a 3/4 nut onto it, off you go!

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Just going over some notes before I roll the trans into place. My goal with the 4L80e swap is to rig up the stock shift linkage. Y'all 4L80e swap guys feel free to school me - I know some of the later burbs came stock with a 4L80 or 400 so should not be too lofty of a goal. Apparently I need to move the link rod/arm pivot back a couple inches on the frame, and lengthen the shifter rod from the column an extra 2". I think it will all bolt up? Guess we will soon find out.


The selector deal bolts up to the shaft fine.

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A while back I picked up one of them $30 chinesium shifter rod setups - just in the event my fabrication skills fail me. Tossed the funky switch that came on the trans core when I got it, as the column holds the neutral safety and backup light switches. So just three connectors and the shifter/cooler to address. I need remember to slap the trans temp sensor in the pan before I fill it too.

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Should have the new aluminum driveshaft core today to prep it for a tuneup and shortening at the driveline shop. Slowly getting there.

 

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New (Beef Supreme) next to the stock 2 pc driveshaft.

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Yuge! lol

 

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Ended up lengthening the stock linkage rod for the shifter, just used the shank from a 3/8" bolt, gave everything a good bevel and welded on with the mig to add another 2 1/2".

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New throttle cable in

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and a new ground strap, because why not?

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Now struggling with how to get the truck up high enough (no lift life!) to slide the trans and jack under it. Time to get creative! I think the safest method is to pull off one of the front wheels and jack the truck up on one side and roll in that way. Too chicken to stab the whole assembly (trans and engine) in as a unit, as I don't want to risk smashing into the AC box.

 

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Everything is ready to slap it all back together, just waiting on my buddy Kyle to get some free time to come give me a hand to drop it in.

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In the meantime just sorting out all the new wiring, got the overall theory/logic down, just may tweak a few circuits on input from the tuner. The new engine harness will only have about 3 basic feeds (IGN1, IGN2, start) that will feed/trigger the relay block, then off to the fans/fuel pump/ECU/trans. I may just wire the trans fan off IGN2 if we need another relay for the boost solenoids.

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Quick update,

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Everything lined up so nice, everything fell into place pretty drama free.


Found a few small issues to iron out when I get time, one of which is how far the converter is to the flex plate. May be normal, (about .250-.300) waiting to get word back from Brian at Circle D to confirm on that. May need to tug everything back out, so pausing on some of the more fun lego pieces coming up next. But so far, she is going back together, lego by lego.

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Action shot: (please ignore the horrible color clash, technical oversight!)

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After a closer look around -- Looks like the converter is fine. After checking some bits, it's "pull-out" is sitting at .235 (15/16), and was advised to use the .090" shims that came with the converter, to bring it to .145" Safe spec is .125 - .187" per circle D so I think she is good there.

Driveline will come out to 69" from the tail shaft to the cl of the cap on the stock 10-bolt. So will get that dropped off later this week to get that redone and balanced.

So went ahead and shimed, locktite'd and torqued all six bolts, and looks money.

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Shimmed up the starter and bolted up a few 'loose ends' bottom side.

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So far everything has been super easy to access -- starter, plugs, header/mount bolts, etc.

Crossmember is mocked in for now --- Need to tweak the driveline angles yet, may get raised or lowered as needed, but good enough for now.

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Will need to relocate the e-brake cables at some point to clear the deep sump 4L80 pan.

Still scratching my head what to do with the (carrier bearing support) crossmember, it might hit the 1pc driveline and may need some fabrication work. So far have not needed to cut anything, so crossing my fingers.

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Forgot to mention, prior to install, I ran through the prime process and saw 40psi on slow speed, and didn't go much above 70psi maxed out with cold 10w30 conventional oil in it. Was surprised how light/smooth the pump felt once it loaded the drill motor. Pressure test and leak test all look good before drop in. All rockers were oozing oil like I expect.

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and the trusty prime tool a buddy made from an old corvette distributor over 40 years ago lol Still puttin in work!

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Slowly going back together: - almost ready to tackle the wiring top side now that I made a little progress bottomside buttoning up. Still need to tidy up the plumbing, mount the shifter pivot plate, and some trans components.

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Passenger side downpipe/crossover was a bit tight to the frame on the mockup check, so did a little massaging to add just a tad more clearance. Added a small ~.120" relief to give more room. Should not be an issue with integrity, but I may add a 3/16" contoured strap and weld to the frame if it bugs me later.

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I think a remote P/S reservoir might be a better option for this setup, she's a tad CLOSE!

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Up pipe hangs down a little lower than I would like, but the extra clearance works for now. Ignore the shifter funkiness, I need to yet weld a 3/16" steel "shelf" to the frame to mount the pivot plate for the shifter arm so everything lines up with the 4L80.

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Big thanks to Stainless Headers for the amazing workmanship on the hot side components. I was cussing these V-band clamps for a bit, then I devised a "jig" with the trans jack to hold everything in place just perfect, so I could tighten everything down, .....since I lacked the four extra hands required to fit it all of it together freestyle lol

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