82 C10 EFI Conversion project

[82SquareBurb]

Making progress, new accessories installed with the new radiator/fans, engine bay looks so much cleaner now - even though I have more to do, - currently working on mocking up all my AC hoses/fittings. Should get to the wiring and induction swap once I get the new fuel tank and pump installed next. Getting closer.

Everything mounted up fine

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New AC condenser:

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AC lines going in:

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[82SquareBurb]

Update:
This project has split into a few different tangents slowing progress a bit. After a lot of research and talking to several fabricators I decided to go with a single turbo setup on this project. The other day I received the custom headers I worked with Steve at Stainless Headers on, and they came out fantastic.

Sneak peak at the hot side attached.

Other work: The block is at the machine shop getting machined, and the 4L80e trans is at the local shop getting a Jakes stage 4 rebuild, with dual oil feeds, 300M shafts and Circle D is working on the 3 disk lockup converter, so hoping to have everything in one location again by next month, and finally get to assembly and get it ready to go to the fabricator.

For more pics of the single hotside now available at SHM https://www.stainlessheaders.com/sbc-single-turbo-headers

 

[82SquareBurb]

Anyone know if the HVAC box needs to be dropped out to get a holesaw through the firewall? Trying to map out where to run the harness in, I think the factory used the area pictured. Hoping I can get a hole in it without too much drama.

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Area on inside:

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Looks to be maybe an inch of clearance. Tight!

 

[82SquareBurb]

Apparently not.

To be on the safe side I pulled mine out, and gave me a chance to freshen up all the seals and heater core, vents, etc. Also allowed me to find the best spot to mount the ECU, and should work out pretty good. Can still see the LED's things and it's hidden up behind the glove box.

FWIW: I think I could have just popped the hole in the firewall without hitting the box/assembly, but im an old fart and didn't want to take the chance of breaking, these boxes and parts are a bit spendy!

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Had a broken clip deal on the blend door, so swapped on the aluminum replacement.
Tucked everything up over the box, pretty tight in there but it all fits pretty good.

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[82SquareBurb]

Finally got the block back from the machine shop. I wound up using a bunch of old parts I had laying around from my bracket racing days, and throwing this 355 together.

Big thanks to the boys at Central TN Machine works for bringing this old boat anchor back to pristine.

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The crank is a 4340 steel unit that has been balanced with the rest of the rotating assembly.

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All forged rotating assembly going together. The block needed a small kiss with the die grinder to provide a bit more clearance for the rod bolts.

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Since this is a boosted application, went with D.S.S. -13cc dished pistons forged in 4032. Deck has been "zero-decked" to maximize quench.

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Short block going together.

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[82SquareBurb]

Few more pics of work in progress;

Some mockup work checking P-V, lift, rocker geometry and all that fun stuff. Went with a small Melling hydraulic roller cam and lifters, for good street manners.

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Heads are chicom "NKB" specials, with Manley stainless valves, Comp 987 springs, with VTO Ti retainers I had laying around. They have a 3 angle valve job, with a 33 degree back cut on the intakes. Nothing fancy at all. 2.05" intakes and 1.6 exhaust.

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1.5 stainless rockers for now, those may change - Pushrods ended up being 7.250". Not sure how I like these self-align rockers just yet. Since this is a low RPM deal, they should be fine.

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For oiling, went with a Melling "sharktooth" unit with the yellow spring, with a 7 quart pan. pan needed a bit of modification to the baffle door thing to clear the pickup screen.

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Hoping to have the trans back next month. Been waiting a hot minute for the billet direct drum for the 4L80e, (must be only one guy on the planet making those deals!) but I am told it should be shipping soon. We went with a stage 5 kit from Jakes, since it was the only way to get the super strong direct. I don't think it needs it, but it should live forever behind this 700+HP small block in a 5,000 pound Sub.

 

[82SquareBurb]

Been a minute since I've had time to update here. After a holiday break and a new roof for the house - finally getting back to making more bad automotive choices.

Finally got the trans and all other parts, made a few small changes to the heads, but everything is going together.

More updates to come.

 

[ChuckN]

Few more pics of work in progress;

Some mockup work checking P-V, lift, rocker geometry and all that fun stuff. Went with a small Melling hydraulic roller cam and lifters, for good street manners.

You must be registered for see images attach

Heads are chicom "NKB" specials, with Manley stainless valves, Comp 987 springs, with VTO Ti retainers I had laying around. They have a 3 angle valve job, with a 33 degree back cut on the intakes. Nothing fancy at all. 2.05" intakes and 1.6 exhaust.

You must be registered for see images attach

1.5 stainless rockers for now, those may change - Pushrods ended up being 7.250". Not sure how I like these self-align rockers just yet. Since this is a low RPM deal, they should be fine.

You must be registered for see images attach

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For oiling, went with a Melling "sharktooth" unit with the yellow spring, with a 7 quart pan. pan needed a bit of modification to the baffle door thing to clear the pickup screen.

You must be registered for see images attach

Hoping to have the trans back next month. Been waiting a hot minute for the billet direct drum for the 4L80e, (must be only one guy on the planet making those deals!) but I am told it should be shipping soon. We went with a stage 5 kit from Jakes, since it was the only way to get the super strong direct. I don't think it needs it, but it should live forever behind this 700+HP small block in a 5,000 pound Sub.

Which Melling unit did you go with? I was looking at the standard 55HV/155HV but the machine shop doing some of my work suggested a 10552 when I called them. In that family there are five different variations,just curious as to what you chose.

 

[Ricko1966]

Which Melling unit did you go with? I was looking at the standard 55HV/155HV but the machine shop doing some of my work suggested a 10552 when I called them. In that family there are five different variations,just curious as to what you chose.

Mellings cam,not Mellings oil pump.

 

[82SquareBurb]

Which Melling unit did you go with? I was looking at the standard 55HV/155HV but the machine shop doing some of my work suggested a 10552 when I called them. In that family there are five different variations,just curious as to what you chose.

I went with the 10552ST which is 10% volume over a stock pump. Nothing special, with I want to say the yellow spring. They told me the gears are different they call it "shark tooth" that is supposed to run smoother with less cavitation at higher RPM. Also has a bolt on pickup so no need to weld to the pump. Other than that, not much different from the OG M55.

More Information for MELLING 10552ST

With this pickup tube: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10211036&cc=1034783&pt=5576&jsn=734

 

[82SquareBurb]

Mellings cam,not Mellings oil pump.

In case I confused the question, the cam is #22237

 

[Ricko1966]

In case I confused the question, the cam is #22237

Didn't confuse me. A lot of people think of Oil Pumps first thing when people say mellings,not camshafts. Oops,I guess you did confuse me,you went Melling for Cam and Pump @ChuckN wants to know what pump you are using. Sweet cam pick. It looks like one to throw in the mix on a build I'm into.

 

[82SquareBurb]

More pics of some of the infra pieces of this build;

64/66 billet wheel RHP800 turbo, Tial wastegate and mac valves. The Terminator will handle boost control. Not pictured is the CO2 bottle and plumbing, plan to eventually run on-board air but for testing and minimizing space will just run the bottle to add dome pressure.

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The future "just in case" block that was going to be a 421 stoker, has been destroked to just a 400 cubes with a 5.7 rod - the 3.825" stroke 5.875" rod combo didn't leave enough meat for the ring stack for my application.

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Some of the supporting parts for the 400, Manley crank, -16cc dished pistons, and another set of AFR heads.

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For rods in the 400, ended up going with Scat ultra I-beam deals. These line up with the target bob weight of the crank a bit better than the H-beam Eagle rods, and should make the balance come in better than running the 628g Eagle ones. This setup should be more durable should the 'Beer budget 355' come apart.

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[ChuckN]

I went with the 10552ST which is 10% volume over a stock pump. Nothing special, with I want to say the yellow spring. They told me the gears are different they call it "shark tooth" that is supposed to run smoother with less cavitation at higher RPM. Also has a bolt on pickup so no need to weld to the pump. Other than that, not much different from the OG M55.

More Information for MELLING 10552ST

With this pickup tube: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10211036&cc=1034783&pt=5576&jsn=734

Very cool. Did you use the stock oil pan, or stock oil pan depth?

 

[82SquareBurb]

Didn't confuse me. A lot of people think of Oil Pumps first thing when people say mellings,not camshafts. Oops,I guess you did confuse me,you went Melling for Cam and Pump @ChuckN wants to know what pump you are using. Sweet cam pick. It looks like one to throw in the mix on a build I'm into.

Yeah Mellings has a good selection of goodies these days. Even running their roller lifters as well. and the stock lump in my truck has a Melling flat tapper that I installed 16 years ago and has never missed a beat. I run either Howards or Melling rollers for these spicy street builds never had any issues.