81 C10 pulling right

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SouthernEagle

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I recently bought my first squarebody, a 1981 C10 long bed. When I'm driving down the road and apply the brakes, it pulls hard to the right. What do I need to check? Thanks. SE
 

Jawzjeep

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Check your calipers for free movement?
 

85Sierra Classy

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On a vehicle this old, the rubber brake hoses can also collapse internally and restrict fluid flow. If one side is collapsed, this will also cause your pull when braking. Parts are cheap enough these days, replace calipers and hoses on both sides up front and bleed clean fluid into the system. You’ll be good for years to come
 

Charlie

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On a vehicle this old, the rubber brake hoses can also collapse internally and restrict fluid flow. If one side is collapsed, this will also cause your pull when braking. Parts are cheap enough these days, replace calipers and hoses on both sides up front and bleed clean fluid into the system. You’ll be good for years to come

Yes, this!
 

SASKCHEYENNE75

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Mine did the exact same thing and it was a seized brake caliper and a collapsed hose. You can probably get away with just changing the hose and trying to free up the caliper but as stated before the parts are cheap. Swap them out, bleed the brakes, and you should be good!
 

wingman50

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Also had the same pull to the right on my ‘81. Replace calipers, disc’s and brake hoses which solved the braking issues.
 

Raider L

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Yep, what they all said. But I was sitting here trying to think of what it was back when I had cars and trucks with drum brakes up front. Back then it was somehow a brake was out of adjustment, or the front end had become out of alignment. Since those cars didn't have a warped discs or bad calipers or any of that, more times than not the shoes needed to be adjusted with the star adjuster at the bottom just like a drum rear brakes Squares have on them.

As a matter of a fact why don't you @Southern Eagle, '81's still had drums didn't they?, check your back drums and see if they need some evening up. And if not make sure your disc brake shoes are even. If they're not then you may have a hose problem back there to. I was braking just on the front for years and didn't even know it until I changed that rubber brake hose over the rear end and for the first time in years I could stop my truck like it should! It felt weird to have all my brakes working.
 

Raider L

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@Southern Eagle,

Welcome to the forum from Louisiana! Home of the pigeon size mosquito's this year! I was hoping all that 4 inches of ice and 7 inches of snow back in Feb., and 6 degrees would have killed their little butts, but then we got ten years worth of rain in three months and now you have to go outside with a ball bat just to throw something in the garbage can!
 

Grumpy

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@Southern Eagle,

Welcome to the forum from Louisiana! Home of the pigeon size mosquito's this year! I was hoping all that 4 inches of ice and 7 inches of snow back in Feb., and 6 degrees would have killed their little butts, but then we got ten years worth of rain in three months and now you have to go outside with a ball bat just to throw something in the garbage can!
Where I live, the horseflies gang-rape you and steal your wallet.
 

rick1956

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Brake hydraulic systems work as a 'system' and are easily fooled by one wheel. If you have a rear wheel cylinder sticking for example, the rest of the system "see's" equal pressure, but it actually isn't moving the mechanical parts equally. Usually, the opposite side from the pulling direction has a flaw, either brake line or piston travel.
 

fast 99

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When doing customer work on a problem like that my diagnosis procedure was a little different than above. I would drive the vehicle and make a couple reasonably hard stops. Then with a heat gun check the rotors and drums for different temp readings. On something pulling hard right expect the left rotor to be cooler or right rear to be warmer if brake related. If close side to side the front suspension needs to be inspected for loose parts.

Heat guns are a good tool to have and are quite reasonable today.
 

idahovette

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This thread started in May of last year and the OP never came back. But, my two cents, if the steering wheel jerks on brake application ,it's usually in the front system. if it just "drifts" it should be in the rear system??
 

fast 99

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This thread started in May of last year and the OP never came back. But, my two cents, if the steering wheel jerks on brake application ,it's usually in the front system. if it just "drifts" it should be in the rear system??
Didn't notice it is very old. Your diagnosis could be correct but when I was dealing with customers vehicles assuming anything can bite you in the ass. Usually tried to confirm with other methods. Have seen very worn out front ends clunk or shift during braking causing a pull. Yes, rear brakes have less effect. Most braking is done with the front wheels.

If dealing with these sorts of issues buy a heat gun. They are useful for a lot more than brakes.
 

idahovette

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I'm just saying it gives you a head start on which end to look at. I agree whenever I looked at a customers car, we always checked the complete system of whatever we were working on...... and we didn't HAVE heat guns when I started
 

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