4l80e conversion in 1985 suburban. What parts do I need?

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NickTransmissions

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Just pulled it today anyway for our engine rebuild. It’s on a stand so dropping the pan is easy; no go on the line pressure test.
Ok, I would have done the pressure test but your call...Bring it back to the builder, advise of the symptoms you were experiencing in 3rd gear...Ask him if he drilled a supplemental bleed hole in the direct drum...For very high HP/RPM applications, I always drill a .055 bleed hole just below the piston's outer lip seal surface at the bottom of the drum to prevent centrifugal apply/clutch drag at 6000+ RPMs when shifting from 1st to 2nd. If he did drill the hole, it may have been drilled to an excessive size (i.e. .070+) or interefered w/the lip seal and partially cut the seal...Just a theory, which won't apply at all if he didn't drill the bleed hole.
 

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Ok, I would have done the pressure test but your call...Bring it back to the builder, advise of the symptoms you were experiencing in 3rd gear...Ask him if he drilled a supplemental bleed hole in the direct drum...For very high HP/RPM applications, I always drill a .055 bleed hole just below the piston's outer lip seal surface at the bottom of the drum to prevent centrifugal apply/clutch drag at 6000+ RPMs when shifting from 1st to 2nd. If he did drill the hole, it may have been drilled to an excessive size (i.e. .070+) or interefered w/the lip seal and partially cut the seal...Just a theory, which won't apply at all if he didn't drill the bleed hole.
Here is what the pan looks likes. There are some strips of bronze material. I’m assuming this is bushing or bearing material? At the time of install, I had a false scare where we tought the torque converter might be bad due to shuttering but it was a burnt plug wire. He is claiming that the misfire and shutter feel caused damage. Could the bronze material be converter material? Temps only got up to 215.
 

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Bextreme04

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Here is what the pan looks likes. There are some strips of bronze material. I’m assuming this is bushing or bearing material? At the time of install, I had a false scare where we tought the torque converter might be bad due to shuttering but it was a burnt plug wire. He is claiming that the misfire and shutter feel caused damage. Could the bronze material be converter material? Temps only got up to 215.
I'm no builder... but that looks like a **** trans build to me.
 

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Here is what the pan looks likes. There are some strips of bronze material. I’m assuming this is bushing or bearing material? At the time of install, I had a false scare where we tought the torque converter might be bad due to shuttering but it was a burnt plug wire. He is claiming that the misfire and shutter feel caused damage. Could the bronze material be converter material? Temps only got up to 215.
 

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Bextreme04

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What year is the 4L80? If it's a 97+, did you use the correct rear cooler line fitting?
 

NickTransmissions

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Here is what the pan looks likes. There are some strips of bronze material. I’m assuming this is bushing or bearing material? At the time of install, I had a false scare where we tought the torque converter might be bad due to shuttering but it was a burnt plug wire. He is claiming that the misfire and shutter feel caused damage. Could the bronze material be converter material? Temps only got up to 215.
Misfires can definitely damage the TC and input shaft splines, depending on how long it was driven with the misfire condition, severity of the condition, etc.

Trans will need to be completely torn down as if it was a new job, everything inspected, tested and, where applicable, reconditioned or replaced. TC failures like that are generally catastrophic insofar as LOE to restore the trans to new build condition again as the pump's working surfaces often sustain damage and need re-machining or replacement.

Let us know what happens once the builder has it and gets back to you...
 

txaggie

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Misfires can definitely damage the TC and input shaft splines, depending on how long it was driven with the misfire condition, severity of the condition, etc.

Trans will need to be completely torn down as if it was a new job, everything inspected, tested and, where applicable, reconditioned or replaced. TC failures like that are generally catastrophic insofar as LOE to restore the trans to new build condition again as the pump's working surfaces often sustain damage and need re-machining or replacement.

Let us know what happens once the builder has it and gets back to you...

I drove the truck for 5-10 min at lower speeds with the burnt plug wire. Once we remedied the plug wire, I drove the truck another 800 miles and only monitored the trans temp (200 at highway speeds) after driving an hour. Curious to see how much damage is there. Being that we pulled the motor I thought it might be worth while to open the trans pan.
 

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:sad72:
 

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Were those 200-215° temps just driving around or was that towing?

Seems kind of high if you were just puttering around unloaded.
 

82SquareBurb

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Is synthetic trans fluid that brown, or is it funky lighting? Is it burnt smelling?
 

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Misfires can definitely damage the TC and input shaft splines, depending on how long it was driven with the misfire condition, severity of the condition, etc.

Trans will need to be completely torn down as if it was a new job, everything inspected, tested and, where applicable, reconditioned or replaced. TC failures like that are generally catastrophic insofar as LOE to restore the trans to new build condition again as the pump's working surfaces often sustain damage and need re-machining or replacement.

Let us know what happens once the builder has it and gets back to you...

Tore the trans down with the builder. All bushings look perfect so the bronze most likely came from the converter. Some of the forward clutches were a bit burned too. All other things looked good. I explained that my third gear felt too soft and the builder thinks our shift point was too low on the Holley programmer.
 

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Or the converter was bad from the start.
The converter cannot be locked up when it is not supposed to be.
If the connector had fluid inside the pins, your converter was ruined because of manu8facturer defect.
If it was shorted out, it locked up when it was not supposed to.

The connector leak would bve his fault, not yours.
 

txaggie

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Or the converter was bad from the start.
The converter cannot be locked up when it is not supposed to be.
If the connector had fluid inside the pins, your converter was ruined because of manu8facturer defect.
If it was shorted out, it locked up when it was not supposed to.

The connector leak would bve his fault, not yours.
Connector leak?
 

RanchWelder

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There's an usually green or red o-ring inside the transmission case housing to the electrical connector plastic.

The connector can be re-pinned for different models.
This requires the pins not being used, be very well sealed from fluid. One mistake here and it leaks.
Badly.

Like the end of your transmission bad.

If any rebuilder accidentally cuts any o-ring during installation, (let's say he pulled the connector out two or three times instead of installing once with a quality o-ring sealer and/or plenty of lube); it leaked.

Once fluid short circuits the converter to ground, it will not un-lock and creates a lot of debris. Debris clogs other systems. System then fail to open and cose... chaos ensues.

Transmissions are complicated.
Builder's have bad days too.
 
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82SquareBurb

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Kind of an old thread, but what shift linkage did you end up going with? Did you run the lokar style kit with the longer rod, and adjustable selector arm? Wondering if the bracket and Z bar arm need to be modified still or if the lokar kit eliminates that bar? Trying to gather up what I need for a 700R4 to 4L80E swap. Thx
 

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