1994 S10 1Ton SAS

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bucket

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Vbb199

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That's even better actually. The ones I knew of went inline on the cable so the cable speedo in the older vehicles could be retained. But that one there is more fitting, and cheaper to boot. If the ppm is incorrect, you can use a factory GM "VSS buffer box" to adjust the signal.
What's the buffer box?
Are you referring to a DRAC module?

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Vbb199

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What's the buffer box?
Are you referring to a DRAC module?

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These guys at Dakota digital have all sorts of goodies I could look into.

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bucket

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What's the buffer box?
Are you referring to a DRAC module?

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Yep, that's exactly what I meant.
 

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Yep, that's exactly what I meant.
Seems slightly sarcastic..... Lol

But do you think I could put it inline with that adapter I posted and setup the correct tire size and ratio for the s10?

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bucket

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Seems slightly sarcastic..... Lol

But do you think I could put it inline with that adapter I posted and setup the correct tire size and ratio for the s10?

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Lol, not sarcastic. You just seem to know exactly what I'm thinking even though I word it poorly.

But yeah if those speed sensors can be bought with the correct pulse per mile output that your ECM wants to see, it should work perfectly and you can adjust for your tire size and gear ratio with a DRAC module. I can't remember if your S10 might even have one already, I don't remember if my 91's had a DRAC.
 

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Lol, not sarcastic. You just seem to know exactly what I'm thinking even though I word it poorly.

But yeah if those speed sensors can be bought with the correct pulse per mile output that your ECM wants to see, it should work perfectly and you can adjust for your tire size and gear ratio with a DRAC module. I can't remember if your S10 might even have one already, I don't remember if my 91's had a DRAC.
I thought about the drac module, but I'm not sure if my s10 has one or not.
I'm getting mixed messages on the web about my 4l60e PPM

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Vbb199

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What I keep repeatedly coming up with for 94 and newer 4l60e transmissions is "40 pulses per driveshaft revolution"

Can anyone confirm this?
Edit: the buffer converts this to 4000 PPM

Edit again: @bucket I'm reading a thread online about adjusting the VSSB for a 92-98.
Truck


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Vbb199

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***This might be really valuable to other users, not so much for a SAS, but for people seeking knowledge on switching to a old school cable driven style speedo t case or trans, I've been reading on this subject for weeks now and gathering info***

Anyway... last post, I've drank alot of beer and I'm tired. after doing more reading, my s10 does in fact need 40 pulses per driveshaft revolution, which is done with a 40 tooth reluctor ring in my transfer case.


***FROM WHAT I'VE GATHERED***
The 700r4, th400, 4l60e (there is 91 Trucks that had this, it's half year bs I knew about prior to this post), np205, np208, and np241 that our 90-91 squares used.......
The VSS within them also uses 40 pulses per driveshaft revolution.

(NOTE THIS)

That 40 pulses per driveshaft revolution is sent to the VSSB/DRAC

From 90-95 (maybe 96) chevy trucks used a DRAC or VSSB to buffer the VSS input to the ABS and cruise control module, as well as the speedo.

DRAC uses 7 pin input
VSSB uses 14 pin input (its mirrored like a book)

(here comes the technical info)
The VSSB/DRAC takes the DC sine wave of the vss, and buffers it to a square wave.
It adjusts that signal for the ABS, cruise control, and speedometer.




(back to the sas stuff)

That said, I must either
1. Adapt the s10's reluctor and sensor to my cable driven np208
(wouldn't be hard for me)

2. Find a np241 from a 90 or 91
(might be hard)
OR

3. find an adapter that goes from the cable driven output on my 208 to a DC sine wave signal that my VSSB can read, and from there, I simply program it.

I know about DRAC programming from the past.

thanks to www.harristuning.com or tbichips, they've got a calculator and the jumper configuration you need for your DRAC or VSSB.

**I want to also add my own personal touch**


- With a simple 7 pin dip switch, you do not need to break out the solder sucker and solder iron to bridge terminals everytime you want to change ratio and tire size, you can reprogram your VSSB/DRAC with the flip of a switch.
1 Time install.

That's all for tonight.




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Vbb199

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https://www.dakotadigital.com/index...t_id=916/category_id=311/mode=prod/prd916.htm

The people at Dakota digital got back with me, and this is what they recommend I use to be able to utilize the np208.

He reccomended also purchasing this interference device:
https://www.dakotadigital.com/index...id=1192/category_id=287/mode=prod/prd1192.htm

But said I should try the VSSB first and see if my speedometer is correct with the 4.56 gear and 36" tire change.
(I personally feel like he might be just trying to sell me some **** on their own buffer device)

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I used that same pulse generator to run the speedometer on a 94 k1500 I had that was swapped to a Cummins 6bt/tf727/np205 and it worked perfectly
 

Vbb199

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I used that same pulse generator to run the speedometer on a 94 k1500 I had that was swapped to a Cummins 6bt/tf727/np205 and it worked perfectly
I appreciate the input!!

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Vbb199

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So it appears for the most part, I've safely planned out the bigger details of the conversion.
I'm going to run a np208 from my suburban behind the s10, run then factory driveshafts to the 1/2 ton axles, and just have them shortened, I will use a adapter to convert the cable rotations of the np208 into a digital signal my s10 can use, and reprogram the VSSB.
The suburbans crossmember will be cut and fit to work in the s10.

That was big milestone!

Next up on the list is steering, which I've got mostly figured out, I can safely use a s10 steering box and steering arm, so long as I'm not moving the axle Forward any, which I didn't plan on it.

I have tubing for my drag link and tie rod, as well heim joints.

I need to machine my 10 bolts passenger knuckle to accept a home grown steering arm.


There's another concern I have now, and that is, the exhaust.
While changing drop sides now is clearly not an issue, I will be met with the issue of the exhaust crossover, which occurs on the passenger side.

I basically have to mirror my current exhaust.

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Vbb199

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Whilst browsing around the web, I happened to find this.

This is ideal setup I'm looking for, with the stance, tire to lift ratio, it looks good.


And the second photo is my truck.
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Vbb199

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So, I stripped the front axle down completely.
Used degreaser and wire wheeled it down to bare metal. Gave it a coat of paint, it's ready to build!

Word is I can't use a 10 bolt pass side Knuckle to flattop and tap for crossover

Can you guess who's going to try anyways?

This guy. Knuckle is stripped down, I have an idea sketched out im going to try. If it fails, worst case scenario, I've lost nothing but a 10 bolt knuckle. Peak the plan it'll be bolted and welded down.

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