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1987 RCSB 2WD lowering questions

Discussion in 'Lowered & Street Systems' started by Jacob Pick, Jan 19, 2021.

  1. Jacob Pick

    Jacob Pick Junior Member

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    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2021
    Location:
    nebraska
    First Name:
    jacob
    Truck Year:
    1987
    Truck Model:
    1500
    Engine Size:
    305
    Hello, I just bought my first square body and I was wondering if anyone could point me in the direction of the best lowering kit to the truck as low as possibly with out bags and without notching the frame? And what size wheel and tire would fit and look good?
     
  2. Swearbody

    Swearbody Supporting Member Supporting Member

    Age:
    41
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    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2018
    Location:
    Birmingham AL
    First Name:
    Jeff
    Truck Year:
    84
    Truck Model:
    C1500
    Engine Size:
    355 sbc
    2 " drop spindles and 1-2" springs up front. Shackles,hangers,and shock relocation in the rear.
    Thats about 3-4 or 4-4 drop. Low as you want to go without notching the rear,

    4.5 backspacing front and 5.15 to 5.5 rear as far as wheels.
     
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  3. Bennyt

    Bennyt Full Access Member

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    Joined:
    May 17, 2019
    Location:
    Surprise
    First Name:
    Ben
    Truck Year:
    1977
    Truck Model:
    C10
    Engine Size:
    350
    I agree with Swearbodys recommendations.


    While there are plenty of drop spindles out there, I prefer the CPP modular spindle for its brake options and drum brake offset. They have reasonably priced control arms that help with alignment as well. If you do decide on doing a C-Notch, use a high quality piece and lower it by cutting off the perches and welding on new ones.

    After that, most parts are preferred brand or have other benefits that may or may not pertain to you.
     
  4. Slybeanx

    Slybeanx Full Access Member

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    Joined:
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    Location:
    Maryland
    First Name:
    Chris
    Truck Year:
    1987
    Truck Model:
    R1500
    Engine Size:
    v6
    I run CPP front and rear. I recommend them and both suggestions above. You can peep my pics to see what the stance looks like.
     
  5. John Nes

    John Nes Full Access Member

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    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2019
    Location:
    Atlanta
    First Name:
    John
    Truck Year:
    1987, 1979, 1973
    Truck Model:
    R10, Sierra, C20
    Engine Size:
    5.7 350tbi , 5.7 350, 5.7 350
    Went with an axle flip kit from DJM on my 87, shock relocation and drop shocks. More or less a 5” drop. I’ve yet to slap frame and don’t have it notched, but I also don’t haul or tow anything.
    Running DJM lower control arms for 3” in the front, reason being you can run your 15in rally’s w/o any clearance issues between the LCA and wheel (if you’re going the spindle + rally route, you’ll need to do a lil grinding on the arms, or just run a 17” wheel). Wasn’t too stoked with just the dropped control arms, so I got some 2” belltech drop springs to install here soon...as for tires Ive ran 20x9’s with a 245/40 and been happy. Attached is a picture with the 3” drop in the front and axle flip in the back, with the 245/40/20 0B867353-F2CB-43BC-95A5-F85669C32808.jpeg
     
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  6. Turbo4whl

    Turbo4whl Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    Location:
    Downingtown, PA
    First Name:
    Wayne
    Truck Year:
    1974
    Truck Model:
    Jimmy
    Engine Size:
    350
    On my low rider I also flipped the axle in the rear to the top of the springs. Bump stops removed from the frame, added a much shorter set with a bracket bolted to the side of the frame. To carry weight I replaced shocks with air shocks. Empty, just 25 PSI in the shocks. Weight in the bed, add pressure as needed. Separate air fills so no pressure transfer.

    The front, new upper and lower A arms and springs designed for the truck. This keeps the suspension geometry in spec and also from wearing tires uneven. Costs more, but well worth the time and money. No issue with wide wheels.

    Result is a 4/6 drop with no frame mods.
     
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