1987 Chevrolet 350 tbi high idle

[iamtherealJayy]

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Pictures as promised. Tried to include everything that could be a possible interest. The battery says 3/20 but I bought it in august of 20.
Edit: also I noticed my thermostat housing has a slight leak.

 

[AuroraGirl]

your battery cables are messed up, your alt bracket has the wrong tension bolt, the bracket is slightly bent(prob not significant to alignment) your alternator wiring is... curious...

Your ps bracket is missing a spacer to align the tensioner swing (so prob the same situation as the alt), your belt is also getting a little chewed from that(ps belt) this will also wear the shaft bushing on the pump more.

Also, yoru fan still sits in too far. could you (gulp) trim the plastic down if you dont want to buy anything else for that

youre also missing a ground wire near your thermostat housing arent you

 

[AuroraGirl]

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The clamp should be squarely on the hose but otherwise that looks okay (is your housing torqued down, threads sealed)

 

[iamtherealJayy]

What’s wrong with the battery cables? Yes I know the alternator bolt is wrong the alternator kept coming loose so I put a bolt the whole way through the ear and a nut on the back side to hold it. After 10 or so starts the alternator would move a little bit and the belt would squeal. The bracket might be bent from the wreck? I assume the wreck is why the power steering resivour looks like hell. Why’s the wiring on alternator stir your curioustiy? I’m not sure about the ground near the thermostat housing?

 

[iamtherealJayy]

Yes the bolts are tight, sealed? Probably not so much. I have thread tape I can put on if you think the bolts themselves are what’s leaking? It does look more moist near the bolt. One is a bolt and one looks like a stud with a nut but it also unscrews like a bolt.
Edit: explain “The clamp should be squarely on the hose” please

 

[AuroraGirl]

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needs a flange hex and a small spacer to shim that side.

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also should be a flange hex for the alt that threads into the ear. your ear may be worn or different by now, so i would just find hardware longer than OE but the same head profile and then find a nut for the very back.
also your charge wire goes straight to the battery, it seems, and it has tape and doesnt look comforting to me

I would get a new charge wire and run it like OE

 

[iamtherealJayy]

I can go look and see where the wire runs to but I don’t recal seeing any tape?

 

[AuroraGirl]

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the tape i saw may have been your fusible link if its intact.

Anyway,

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because you have a worm clamp you want to be as "square" on the hose so the clamp doesnt overtime want to dig in from the sides or just compress in a band thats not equal on both sides to the neck. Its just good practice to prevent hose leaks in the future. ideally the neck will have a hose on it, in line with it, and the clamp will grip around the hose onto the neck all nice and evenly across and around (well not so much around because you have a band clamp but still)

youre missing a washer looking deal that goes in the battery post. better yet just cut the rubber **** off and youll expose something like this:

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File it flat on the non-flat side and put some sidepost top post screw inserts and then use top posts on the sides.

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heres what Im getting at, but on a top post. you can just have that on the side post with the stuff i mentioned

 

[AuroraGirl]

The reason for alternator focus: your truck, to me, sounds like the voltage dips and drops are causing your issue at the moment

 

[iamtherealJayy]

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Wire from alternator goes to battery

 

[iamtherealJayy]

So you reckon I need to get to work on cleaning up some grounds?

 

[AuroraGirl]

So you reckon I need to get to work on cleaning up some grounds?

and connections yes. power ones too. also your clamp is ok it was just the excess band

 

[iamtherealJayy]

Checked some stuff trucks been running great until last night I was driving home in the rain and it dropped in idle real bad and cut off for a second but never completely stalled. And just now I went for a 10 minute drive and when I started it the truck took a few good seconds to start and when it started it was bouncing from 700-1100 rpm and sounded like it had a huge cam. Give it any amount of throttle and it smoothed out so I held it at 800 ish and just say there for a minute then started driving and it drove great but about a mile from my destination my service engine soon light came on and since it was a straight shot for destination I got here and instantly coasted to the closest parking spot and the truck was running very poor. It was dropping to around a couple hundred rpm and bouncing back and each time it “stalled” the service engine light would come on but it never completely shut off. All my gauges look fine except oil pressure since it doesn’t work.

 

[Bextreme04]

Checked some stuff trucks been running great until last night I was driving home in the rain and it dropped in idle real bad and cut off for a second but never completely stalled. And just now I went for a 10 minute drive and when I started it the truck took a few good seconds to start and when it started it was bouncing from 700-1100 rpm and sounded like it had a huge cam. Give it any amount of throttle and it smoothed out so I held it at 800 ish and just say there for a minute then started driving and it drove great but about a mile from my destination my service engine soon light came on and since it was a straight shot for destination I got here and instantly coasted to the closest parking spot and the truck was running very poor. It was dropping to around a couple hundred rpm and bouncing back and each time it “stalled” the service engine light would come on but it never completely shut off. All my gauges look fine except oil pressure since it doesn’t work.

What codes does it have?

 

[iamtherealJayy]

The light went away after the truck “stalled out” the first time. It will start back but it won’t stay running.